Forum Replies Created
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Yes 2010 will be in Belgium (Ardennes), email to Macko (L39)
For 2011 the plans are “Continental in England”
For 2012 Germany (N?rnberg region)Dear malladyne, you should upload an image: you can log in, go to edit your post, go to Manage Attachements, and upload the electronic image (try to save it compressed to save space, 100kB can be very good quality)
David,
I ordered 2, so if you want I can send you one, costs 16EUR plus postage, you can send me a personal message through this forum or an email where to send it. You can later send me the money in a letter (GBP or EUR).
Peter
Using the item number (120455139086) in the search field of ebay you still find it, it has ended at 2550GBP and was not sold (reserve not met). Somebody interested can still contact the seller by email from there. Might be a good moment to see seller and the engine and buy it directly (if I had an M45 I would do so).
I received images just in time from Alex and yted – thank you – both showed that the head lining was clamped into the frame of the rear window originally. Not a loose cutout as it was in my car before. Here I show you my car, once from outside and once inside before (moth and/or mice having eaten parts of it) and after. It was not an easy job for the local specialist who did that for me because normally the roof is built from inside out: first head linig, next intermediate stuffing and bands and last the outside (PVC) roof. He had to handstitch the headlining in from inside, I think he did that quite well.
He recomended to apply some anty moth chemicals from time to time, as the headlining is (and has to be) wool.Dear David,
finally I removed the rear seat backrest and underside. I assume mine is not original either. The underside of the rear seat is covered with black cloth, so you can?t see in but at one corner it was a bit loose and I could find foam rubber cushions inside. The rear seat backrest is shown in the other photo, it has rubber foam inside too (no springs in both).
When I had the seat away I checked the filling of the shock absorbers, one was quite low, so it was worth taking the photos
PeterDear Adrian,
sounds good, how did you use it? only in the radiator (removed from the car) or in the complete cooling system? how long and how hot?
Peter
Thank you Mark, similar info I received from the AMOC forum all say that the available bearings, also e.g. from Tim Stamper, are of good quality and I should concentrate more on improving the oilways. I phoned Tim Stamper he gives good advice (+44 1768 899 505). Especially when fitting a more performant oil pump there seems to be a restriction in the block where the pump feeds in and also the pipes from an to the oilfilter. More info about what has to be improved on this engine is welcome.
Peter
more about radiator slats: I tried my refurbished system yesterday but my thermostat opens to late, as the block of my car has probably to much local deposits (I cleaned behind the sideplates but I think also waterways in the head are partially blocked) it boils earlyer than normal and the standard thermostat is to late. So the slats have to stay always open until there will be a total overhaul of the engine or I have to find a thermostat that opens earlyer, e.g. at 60?C (any ideas where to get them?)
Peter
Dear Jean-Marie,
on my V12 I have the same device, looks identical, I tried to remove it and have the same problem, so the only help for you is that probably this device is the same in all Lagondas with automatic radiator slats, we can ask M45 or LG45 owners too.
I agree with Colin to leave it in for the cleaning if it is working, in my case it is not working so far. And one half of the radiator slats is no longer attached to it, so I have to remove the radiator mask too, I think.
Peter
3 fotos from my car for the discussion.
Here is my extension ring. Now the distance from each float lid to the jet and thus the fuel level relative to the jet is the same on both sides (as far as I could check fuel level a few milimeters below the jet, which should be right, no fuel can drip in when the engine is not running)
I also attach a sketch to make it clearer.
No idea if these 10mm difference are important or not but I think it is correct now.
Here are two photos sent by yted, the left one shows the situation in my car, the right one is with equal levels which I think is correct. I measured my lower float chamber bowl again and found that the difference is in the distance from top of the bowl to top of the mounting arm.
As long as I do not find the correct bowl, (total height 70mm, distance between top of bowl and top of mounting arm 50mm, distance between middle of bowl to middle of mounting hole 60mm), I will make an extension ring to fit ontop of the lower bowl.some impression from working on one of them. It needs much heat to get the large fine threads moving after 50 years.
To remove the foot from the inner tube, I made an aluminium clamp to hold it: I bored a slightly (0.3mm) to small hole in an aluminium block on my lathe, an then cut the block in two halfs. This clamps around the end of the inner tube to hold it when turning the foot with a big tool after heating it (turbo flame) and while trying to turn, hammering on the foot !
Took me hours to find that procedure. A few scratches in the tube (from some other trials) could be filled by soldering.
Fun is to rebuilt all: first screw the fitting on the top to the screw on the end of the long return spring. Than you can use a lathe to pull the spring out and fix the foot to it. See some impressions on photos.
I will now test if the cleaning made it tight again or if I have to replace the U-seal inside. (now I will be much faster in opening and rebuilding). The U-seal has dimensions 1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5/8. Modern U-seals with this diameters are much less high so propbably it would need an insert to fit a modern one.To be continued…
Dear Adrian,
the only information I have is from the V12/LG6 Chassis handbook from David Hine, he writes that for the non purist if you want to make a front one, with some modification you can use an anti roll bar from Bentley MK VI.
I don?t remember if he says something about the standard rear one and if the MK VI can help here too
Peter