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On the mgcars.org site “Technical Centre”, “Technical Advice” somebody recommends “Motor cycle fork fluid is nearest equivalent fluid nowadays – about 20 SAE”
On the V12 I have used hydraulic oil from a local supplier for machine hydraulics, where I also bought all missing connections and hoses for the V12, I will put it here if there is any specification on the can. This fluid works fine. Comparing the viscosity of my hydraulic oil with the recommendation from the MG site it seems similar.
found nice service information, MG Y seems to have used the same system as the postwar Lagonda :} : http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccy/pdf/scimag52.pdf
does not tell how to get the rustet thread moving :{
for spare parts I found this supplier (MG S and postwar Lagonda have the same jacks it says) and e-mailed him for info.
http://www.svwspares.co.uk. They have a huge spare parts list, the jackall is here: http://www.svwspares.co.uk/catalogue/page20.htm Includes exchange jacks for 73.50 GBP
They say they use heat to get the thread movinghere we may find more advice and contacts:
http://www.mgcars.org/mgccy/ – go to Technical Centre – Jackall AdviceI was not able to get the brass part out of the aluminium elbow and did not want to destroy anything.
Thanks to the helpful photos I reconstructed it “in situ”. I heated it with a hair-dryer until the remaining part of the pin moved out, then soldered a short tube on it and finally a saucer shaped brass disc. It is now at a position that it starts to open at 45Celsius and is fully open at 60Celsius
some answers to my search for suppliers of spare parts, I will update this post if more info received:
1) Tim Stamper, Penrith, tel 01768 899505. (parts for Feltham Astons DB2-MKIII) sent a 24 page list, including alternative dimensions for liners and pistons and pistons either forged or diecast
2) Aston Service Dorset, tel. 021202 574727, http://www.aston-service.co.uk sent me a 2 page list
3) Head Shop, Warrington, tel 01925 851177, http://www.astonmartinparts.co.uk : list with about 25 items received
did not do any price comparison but this is difficult annyway not knowing the quality
Some helpfull images I received from John showing the thermostat taken out from the aluminium elbow
Hi, thank you for ideas and recommendations
1. the engine is not yet out, so far I only took the head off, not shure yet, if I will take the engine out and how (removing front end of body or not, remove with gearbox or leave that in)
2. one of the wet liners (number 4) protrudes the block by about 0.15mm (0.006inch). It is not possible to knock it in (with an aluminium block in between not to damage it). I wonder if the head gasket can compensate for this and why it is higher than the rest of the wet liners, which are all flat with the block.
Peter
not a reply to myself but the continuation of the story:
the head is now off. Don?t forget the two heating pipes to the inlet manifold ! also dont put the rope for pulling off the head around them (guess what I did) 😀
here are some impressions from the action and a look insite. More inspection to come: the valves look quite bad and coked. The liners look ok only number 5 has some rust (because of the water in oil). Now I will make the down-holding device to the liners before turning the engine and see the other cylinders. I am tempted only to give the head to be refurbished and leave the rest of the engine.
Impressive how little space there is for the head gasket to seal between cylinders 1/2, 3/4, 5/6 !
Suggestions whether or not to enamel the exhaust manifold ? it looks like it originally was. Paint the inlet manifold ?
thanks the hint of john concerning wheel crome rings I also checked this with http://www.whosegot.com (Harry Taylor), it seems that Harry has a source for the “door strap caps” too. I will give the details when I have them.
thank you John,
they are offered in stainless steel only, how do they compare to chromed ones ? acceptable look ?
Do you have by chance an answer to my other questions (engine removal, wiper motor) too?regards
PeterOnly remaining question: who knows where to buy them?
Hi Peter,
I just removed my speaker a few days ago (rotten). It is sitting left side of the car below the rear passenger seat. 4 screws are fixing the loudspeaker, they are in 128mm distance each. The hole for the speaker is about 150mm. photo attached. I let you know how my replacement will look like in a few days. It will be an 8Ohm one.
My running board has three rubber stripes fitted in aluminium holders (see picture)
I have no map reading light on the dasboard (photo). Looking in the original manual of the car you find many versions of dashboards.
yours
PeterThere is a continental rally website since long but now there are also lots of nice photos from past events. Look at
http://www.lagonda-rally.com – go to “Galerie”Peter,
not a real answer to your question but may be gives ideas: here is my heater valve, looks not as nice as yours..
See the to rubber sheets that somebody has put in. It seems it can be opened and than you need new seals or the rubber sheet as sort of a membrane. And it seems difficult to get a replacment part so somebody made this himselfDavid,
good idea to look at the V12 (the picture with grey leather). An then I found a picture on the internet with the 3ltr door (the beige one). The same little part! only remaining qestion: where to get it ?
Dear Alistair,
the Delco in my V12 are only hold by the 2 clips. Sometimes you have to give it a slight knock with your hand to get it off because it is sticking a bit.