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So yesterday evening I opened the system:
I removed the two wooden cappings. Then you can see the whole system: from the left side the speedo like drive comes into the left gear. Inside the continuous rotation (in only one direction) is transformed into the back and forth movement of the wipers by the internal gears: a worm gear to a big cogwheel moving a toothed rack. This is connected to the right side drive with just one internal cogwheel (sorry for my limitation in correct wording for all these gear parts).
The right side gear front plate can be opened by just removing 4 screws. It was very old hard grease inside, which I replaced by new.
The left side gear has to be removed from the car (2 screws) to be opened from the back side. Here grease looked better but I also cleaned and put new in.
The tacho like inner cable could not be removed easily so I have bent the cable upwards and trickled oil in.
I have put all back and it works again a bit faster. But the most important was the first gear in the wiper motor because this is rotating fastest.
Hi Laurence,
thank you, with your mail and having a look again It seems easy. I will report and put an image here when done.This weekend I removed the wiper motor (see image) and opened the small lid on the front (2 foremost screws) this gives acces to the internal gear. I removed the old grease and put new in. This already did half the job. The rest of the drive seems quite unaccessible, so I left it for now.
But I am still interested if sombody has an image or drawing of the hidden part.Sorry I have no personal experience with alperform heads, still waiting for my 3litre engine to have its test run after rebuilt. The workshop I gave it to (Touring Garage in Troisdorf, Germany, Mr. Bazille) is extremely slow. Engine head was uncracked, block was cracked, they had it laser welded, I will report on the success hopefully later..
If I would have an engine to be repaired again Tim Stamper might be a good address. Did you ask him on the cylinder heads?
The Aston Martin forum (amoc.org) is also good for discussion for us for the engine part, because there are more DB2 and 2/4 Astons than respective Lagondas around and it seems they are more active. Here is a citation from one of the threads on their forum for David Brown cars:David Birchall 12.5.2010 “I should have said that both David Read and Tim Stamper have been very helpful to me. I just happened to have been communicating with Chris Adams in the past few days… Keith Dixon and Alan Wheatley of Alperform have enormous technical knowledge they are prepared to share-I almost have them on speed dial”
ask Aston Service Dorset for the built sheet of the car. This gives you the complete specifications when the car left the factory and a few years of service records (costs 30 GBP and goes to charity if I remember right)
http://www.astonservicedorset.com/services.html
by the way: your engine number must read LB6H…
do you have an image of the car, you might post it, always nice to see themDear Don,
without having practical experience with adjustment of castor angle, some thoughts:
1) you can do it the try and error way, which makes sure you have optimised it for your car (depending on all the other angles in axle geometry). The effects of increased positive castor angle are described in books or wikipedia (more castor angle runs more straight and gives heavier steering)
2) you find the correct value in documents, (Arnold Davey?, if you find such information please post it here for others) have your cars castor angle measured (with a do-it-yourself measurement device or done by professionals), than you have the difference and can get a suitable wedge to put in
3) you find the same type of car that performs well (test a car from a club member who thinks it is perfect) and if you agree, have it measured, than have your car measured, this gives you the difference needed
Peter
ended with hot bidding between “smile6” and “oldtimerkraus” at 252kEUR with “smile6” winning. Was “oldtimerkraus” the former owner? The same car has been auctioned 1996 and 2000 by Coys
1996: http://www.landroverbase.com/auctionlot/by-id/2124043135/
2000: http://www.landroverbase.com/auctionlot/by-id/1759098041/I wonder why only the prewar Lagonda DHCs are increasing so much in price compared to e.g. the 3ltr postwar which is even more rare (in DHC form) and in my opinion as nice (but of course looking 50?s) and technically as interesting as the V12
Dear Bill,
my feeling is that no special air filter is needed regarding the typically rather low miles per year the cars are used and assuming there is no use in very dusty environment (“off road” in summer). The cars have been living 100?000+ miles without it. The other point is that a very fine air filter doesn?t help breathing of the engine.Dear dani,
I assume you or your friend are not yet member of the Lagonda Club ? in this case you could contact Arnold Davey who has all the files for all cars known to the club. As a first step you can have a look at the club homepage for contacts http://lagondaclub.co.uk/index.php?/contactIt was a very long auction, the french lady from Bonhams took a bit to much time playing here charme.. I left after about 4 hours after most of the interesting cars had been sold. In all most remained under the low estimates (put rather high). Record braking was the Bugati Brescia wreck pulled out of Lago Maggiore after 70 years and fetching 230?000 EUR ! It can be used as sculpture as is. A car dealer said using the chassis and engine numbers it will be an original Bugatti after reconstruction. I do not share this opinion. See also prewarcar.com
The 2 Lagondas:
the LG45 DHC was very nice overall. The drivers door was hanging a bit low (the problem Colin mentioned). And it scraped on the bottom side when opening. There was a crack in the body close to the boot lid, jackall was missing, underside looked good, wheels not perfect. Sold for 140?000EUR plus premium.the LG45 -sort of M45 Le Mans replica:
sold for 112?000 EUR plus premium. I think most has been said about this car. Another point in making profit with these replicas is that they even can be in rather used and scratched condition which looks like “historic racing use”.A few photos attached I have some more if needed
Dear all,
thank you for informations. One open question: is it worth to try to get the rear shock adsorbers adjustable, do you really feel the difference?
I will post here later a foto of my actual ones and a designation ( if I can find it )I will go to this auction too (not that I have money to spend but there are really nice cars to see +Retromobile +Paris +meeting friends). I will make a bunch of fotos for you of the two Lagondas, especially the DHC (also close ups of door hinges)
Interesting discussion.
a “bit” different was meant ironically..
The Holthusen book (I bought it at ebay a few years ago – was not really expensive for this amazing book, about 150 EUR) lists the following numbers fo the 25 LG45 rapides originally built: 12140R-12144R, 12169R-12173R, 12201R-12205R, 12230R, 12234R, 12235R, 12244R, 12245R, 12247R, 12248R, 12266R, 12267R, 12277R. Some engine Numbers and the original registration numbers and dates are given too.
the three wrong dashboard images seem to be from the Bugatti type 57C with interesting pillarles 4-door body of the same auction
I saw that too. A list of correct chassis numbers for LG45 Rapides can e.g. be found in the Holthusen book. And a standard factory body LG45 Rapide looks a bit different..
But there is really an amazing list of nice cars to be auctioned and I will go there for a weekend (unfortunately I don?t have the money to buy one of those). Anybody else from this forum going there? send me a mail, would be nice to meet.
Hi, you should make a few photos and load them up (compress them to 50-100 kB file size each, this is enough) and load them up as an attachment to your post (“Manage Attachments”). Price depends on condition: dents in the chrome (if it comes with the chrome shell), general condition of chrome, condition of the radiator itself. As it does not come from a car there is no experience if it is tight and how much corroded inside.
You can offer it for sale here for free.I forgot: please give the dimensions this helps to identify the model