Forum Replies Created
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Alistair,
thank you very much this is of great help !
Could you climb down again and measure the diameter and length of the silencers and the diameter of the pipes ? The pipes look quite large compared to the diameter of the silencers.
How many of the squared flanges are there on one side ?
I also would appreciate a photo of the pipe ending (at the rear)
Thank you again
Petermay I add my main questions for the moment:
who has experience with one or two silencers on each side ? The original factory drawing (like reproduced in Arnold Daveys book page 137) shows two silencers. Also the attached drawing from his book page 124. My car now has only one each side. The same is shown in an image of a rebuilt chassis in the Holthusen book. It might be that in more sporting open cars they had one and in closed cars two ? Or the factory installed two and later the second was left away (saving money, less restricting to breathing of the motor ?)
what is the correct diameter of the pipes and how did they end on the car (in an angle towards the outside or parallel) ? Little details only but does not cost more to make it correct
thank you for some feedback, Peter
Dear Collin,
thank you for your hint. I called Alan who forwarded me to David Hine who mailed me “I am afraid I am also no help ! I have only built V12 specials where the exhaust systems have been very simple”. So other ideas and comments still welcome.
Peter
Dear oakley, this is really a hot topic:
our water is really soft (comes form the black forrest mountains, we never have stains of lime in the kitchen or bathroom), The stains must be something else but I will try next time vinegar. I suspect the hot antifreeze (ethylene glycol plus additives) for the stains. (it may depend on the type of paint, mine could be from the seventies, how do you find the type of paint used ?)
Overheating: I want to emphasize that the temperature of the cooling system always stays low in my car but somewhere in the cylinder head, I assume, there are areas which have become very restricted over the decades by deposits and there is almost no flow. So I get boiling at 70 to 80?C water temperature, if I do not switch the additional electric water pump on.
I do not have an electric fan either, and I agree, it is not needed. I really believe the problem is the restricted flow in the cylinder head. The cure for the moment is my electric water pump, the solution would be cleaning the cylinder heads (acid clean with strong enough citric, formic or acetic acid in hot water. This removed huge amounts of scale from Eckards cylinder heads, I am still pushing on him to publish this)
And may be the impeller of the original pump is coroded so it pumps less, especially at low revs.
Peter
Dear Paul,
To store 100s of GB of data on a PC is no problem but not on a server on the net. Alternatively there are other ways that people can be given acces to your computer. But the question is if that is needed.
If you mail me a wordstar document, we can try out some converters (best you tell us which you know do not work satisfactory)
What about posting here a detailed overview (content) of what is available, then at least if somebody is looking for special information, he can ask you directly. We can create a separate category for this.
Best regards
PeterThank you both for the feedback:
The radiator is in good condition, I have flushed the system with an external centrifugal pump, but not much came out. Another indication that it is clean is that the overal water temperature is low (even if there is LOCAL boiling)
Flushing the engine with an external pump did not remove much sludge either, which I also saw when I opened the sideplates after that (still all the sludge sitting there). The reason is that the flow velocity in many parts of the block is to low to remove compacted sludge.
The fan is not the problem either here (overall water temperature is low, even when local boiling occurs)
The exhaust shields, this is probably a good point for general reduction of temperatures under the bonnet, (even if I had to do much work to construct them : , I can see that the heat wrap should be better. When I do it, I will measure before and after…
Corrosion protection: I am using soft (low hardness) water with antifreeze. How does the “aluprotect” behave on the painting of the car if it gets there ? (by the way hot water plus antifreeze on the paint of my car also gives very hard to polish away spots). I am still not very convinced about the “aluprotect” or similar products, boiling water indicates me that there is a problem, to shift that temperature up would help in case of an unsufficient cooling in the radiator but to move up temperature in some corners of the cylinder head ? Another point is that boiling water cools well (highest “enthalpy of vaporization” of all liquids, if that is the right word in English)
I still believe that the deposits in the cylinder heads (may be combined with a corroded rotor of the original water pump) are the main reason for this sort of boiling. Still waiting for Eckard Fabricius to describe how he did the cleaning (he told me, but would be nice to have it here), I will ask him to post it.
Peter
Thank you for all the comments on identity, conclusion is: if you want to stay unrecognized use an invented username, if you want to change it, please send me a message (PM) with the desired new one and we change it for you.
This site is public on the internet, also found by search engines, Google was the fastest, so if somebody searches for Lagonda information we are discussing here, he may find it. So don’t discuss things that shall stay secret.I was thinking about; open for everybody registered and logged in, I like to see who is in the “room” I prefer seeing the names instead of anonymous guests
what about this:
every user is free to use his real name or just his fist name or a totally “anonymous name” (nice contradiction) but add his club member number (S30 for me). assuming that most in this forum if not all will be club members and only club members would be able to know who is posting if he is called “Peter S30”.please also comment on my post “forum open to non registered users” under “ideas and problems”
I fully agree, I propose to see if there are objections against it.
I also wonder about comments on whether all posts should be readable without logging in which it is now (see my respective post)
Tim,
normally it should work if you click on the document icon, my system than asks me if I want to open it with the standard application (in this case word), with another application or to save it on the disc. If you choose option 1 (assuming you have word on your computer) it should open word and display the document
Regards,
Peter
Richard,
verry good idea, this is just what I think should happen not only for the Rapier. What amount of data are we talking about in Mbyte (number of photos times size of photo if compressed enough but still of acceptable quality) ?
I see 3 options: put it in this forum, create a separate one or create a wiki (wikipedia). I will ask my son Anton, he probably knows more. A wiki for all Lagonda things would be great (I assume for my son it is not a big problem to create the base, it is much work for those contributing later, is like writing a book but with several authors). A possibility is also to start to use this or a separate forum and to switch to a wiki later
If you want to start in this forum (at least as a try), you can tell me the subcategories you want and you have it in five minutes. I think you should have than acces to the Rapier part as a moderator
Peter
Alistair,
here is a copy of the jackall system repair instructions. Let me know when you have questions [ot]I understand your wife[/ot]
Peter
Thank you Klaus and Birgit,
I propose to use English as this increases the number of people joining the discussions by a factor of 10 (for compensation the English have to suffer our English 😉
PeterHere is a page from D. Bastows book “W.O.Bentley-Engineer” talking about the Duralumin conrods – just to give some more input to the discussion..
Peter