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Dear John
To access the starter motor assembly, best is to remove the front seats and the floorboard. But for a quick look you also can creep under the car, left side, and have a look. The starter motor has a sort of Hardy disc coupling between the motor and the drive, which can disengage. I also once had a spline that fell out, I could fix this “en route”. And there is a spring that can break (recommended standard spear part), see club spares.
I have attached scans from the Vintage Lagonda Handbook and the 2 Litre Low Chassis Type Instruction Book. Both higly remmended and can be supplied by the Club
Dear Philipe,
I personally would repair the dynamo, it was reliable for about 80 years and powerfull enough if you are not intending to drive a whole night, with wipers on and cooling box attached. We also do not change our engines to more powerfull modern ones.Dear Roger, sounds to me like the distribution part is the problem (high voltage shortcuts in the old Bosch magneto-distributor somewhere) ?. I have one of Johns coil conversions to swap in case but so far normally running on a good magneto (which I prefer).
Dear Hermann, I bought stainless steel rim embellishers, they look ok, chrome would be slightly nicer. This was in 2008, luckily I found the info in my old emails: I had measured on the original chrome ones: 430mm outer, 350mm inner diameter, when the ring is lying on the floor it is 25mm from floor to underside of the outer edge of the ring (about 28mm max height), the hole for the valve is very close to the inner edge of the ring. A former DB3ltr owner gave me the info that Austin A40 might be the same.
I ordered a set of 4, specification was: “Austin A40 Devon,Somerset S/S AceType Wheel Rim” they fit but mounting was very difficult, had to modify the brackets coming with it several times. I ordered from “a.m.classical.car.accessories” via ebay. Searching today for “Austin A40 rim” I find e.g. this: http://www.classiccarchrome.co.uk/austin-a40-devon-dorset-somerset-new-wheel-rim-embellishers-x-4-923-p.asp
They seem to have a different mounting now, not with loose single brackets but with teeth cut in, let us know if that fitsNo feedback, so this is what I did:
I found one on jegs.com that is quite similar, changes I had to do:
bore the center with a hole-saw and add the 5 small holes for the mounting screws. Had to bend the 5 arms to have slighly less angle, otherwise it would foul the radiator shroud (I first thought I would have to remove the aluminum blades so you see one rivet missing in the foto). Running the engine all seems well but have to wait for hot weather to see if really all is ok now.
I think the original fan has very little material where the mounting holes are plus the blades are heavy so a little imbalance can weaken this rapidly.
yes, and tired or not, hill or not, the clutch must not slip and does not if plate and linings and springs are correct. The only situation where the driven plate is in danger may be starting from rest on a hill.
I think Lagonda had a reason to make this unusual clutch design and I think the reason is they wanted to reduce the mass of parts that have to change speed when you change gears in order to speed gear change up. If these parts are light also the clutch brake is more effective. Of course one could redesign it all with a stronger driven plate and a stronger clutch brake, but the more inertia there is, the more unforgiving it will be with the slightest mismatch in speeds when changing gears. If one wants it “improved” he can have the modern type clutch replacement from the club. I prefer the original, you simply must not slip the clutch. If all works well, and if the driver is not tired, gear change can be a dream with this clutch and gearbox (I admit often I am tired..)
Dear Peter,
you can search the whole forum with the “Search” function in the top (magnifying glass symbol). Searching for “switch” finds it. In case you have too many results you can refine the search by searching only the headers and not the whole posts and you can search for “either” or “and”
I think you are looking for this one http://lagondaforum.com/showtopic.php?id=874&q=ignition+switchI was asked to make a photo of my tools cabinet pocket, here it is. The scale is in cm, total width about 73cm. Material is rather thin, a bit like oilcloth but it is different.
I had my tires on the V12 changed some years ago. This was done by http://www.oldtimer-reifen.com/ (close to Munich) they are probably market leader in Germany. When I went there, they directly asked if they should put these cups with weights on, because they saw the holes for it in the rims. They took them off the shelf. I assume other good suppliers should have them too. If not mail or phone them at oldtimer-reifen
chromed an mounted:
Dear Rich,
on my 2ltr LC I have mounted the starting handle as you see in the photos.
I bought a tiny (modern) hydraulic jack but did not mount it on the bulkhead (only put it there for the photo, looks to modern and I did not want to drill the holes needed for a safe mounting). I put it in the foot room of one of the back seats, together with a CO2 fire estinguisher (I have no boot on the T2 tourer). It would also fit under the bench of the back seat but there is already other stuff.
Attached are also photos for the storage of the mallet (drivers side) and tools cabinet (left side). The car has been totally restored but nicely it still carrys the original tools bag (unfortunately without tools) I am hesitating to fill it as the bag looks a bit fragile after more than 80 years.
I am no LG45 owner, but here is a crossreference table for Crosland 307 (looks like a helpfull page):
http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/CROSLAND/307I discussed that with my friend John (B29) who told me this: the experience was that at least with modern fuels you can give the old cams a bit more overlap but should combine that with 6 thou inlet / 8 thou outlet clearance. I am running this setting at the moment (in combination with a downdraught head). For the improved profiles he recommends 8 / 8.
I only can imagine that optimising the valve timing gives more power, so more heat, therefore requires more gap (which reduces slightly the before increased overlap). Probably one can try anything between 4 and 8 depending on the timing of the cams, but at the risk of burning a valve. Is there a way to find the minimum (cold) gap before burning the valves (0 hot gap) ?
Hi Laurence,
I am using Millers Classic EP 140 in both 2ltr and V12 rear axle.
David Hine says EP 140 in his “Revised Hand Book V12 and LG6 (chassis only).
In the “Trader” Service Data sheet No. 73, September 13, 1939 you find e.g. “Shell Hypoid” (no further specification) or Essoleum Expee Compound 160 for summer and 110 for winter. I assume any classic hypoid oil is better than more modern stuff.
good luck for the trip to the AGM!
Peter