Peter S30

11 November 2008 at 17:13 #47483

Found one thanks to Alan Brown. Only missing part here is now a knurled screw for it, like you see it in the image. The thread is UNC 5/16 – 18TPI
Made 2 new ones (2010)

Peter S30

11 November 2008 at 17:05 #47482

The same “A” can be found in “The Book of Lindisfarne”, late 7ths century. The monastery of Lindisfarne is on an island at the coast of Northumberland.

Attached files

Peter S30

25 October 2008 at 15:50 #47477

Thank you Nigel, I will go for grey.

Concerning polishing engine parts: I do not like these overpolished aluminium and brass parts. I do not think our engines were polished when they were young. Nice examples not overpolished are in Arnold Daveys 2, 3 3 and 3/12 liter book e.g. on pages 49, 170.

Another thing on engine looks is the SU carburettor domes, I do not know if they originally all were black, but I really like it.

Peter S30

23 October 2008 at 15:06 #47473

Thank you Mark, I agree if the float chamber lids have the same height, than the described adjustment of the forks gives the same fuel level relative to the float chamber lids. In my case this results in a fuel level on the right side (with starting carburettor) that is level with the jet and on the left side about 15mm below the jet, because here the float chamber lid is so much lower.

There are numbers on the float chambers of my carbs: 3255 HL on the right one (with starting enrichment device) and 3258 LL. I assume HL means high level or something similar and LL respectively. I will also cross check with another friend with a V12. He has sent me images showing that his float chamber lids are at the same level.

I wonder why this precise setting of the forks is described everywhere if 15mm difference are not important.

Peter S30

8 September 2008 at 18:35 #47451

…and here some few impressions from this great tour with 32 cars participating, with perfect hotel, nice tours and scenery, castles and wide views – thank you to the organizers families Leitner and Grossauer

Attached files

Peter S30

8 September 2008 at 08:38 #47449

Hi Peter,

I have ordered C6HSA for my engine (many suppliers on the internet, cost 2EUR here) Will take a few months to get my engine done so that I can test it. What is your conclusion on your spark plug testing so far?

Peter

Peter S30

14 August 2008 at 06:36 #47443

there are still places available with your car on the train from Graz back to Feldkirch (Austria, near the Swiss border) evening of 24.8.08 or later, if somebody is traveling back through Switzerland. For reservation call 0043 5 1717 (will ask you a choice in German, on first question press 2, on second press 1, then wait, when you reach a person he/she should speak English too).

The trains from Feldkirch to Graz the week before seem to be completely booked

Peter

Peter S30

16 July 2008 at 14:50 #47423

Hi Peter

so it is not firing (no ignition) on one or two cylinders after 2-3 days use and a night in the garage ? or is the ignition on all cylinders always good ?

For checking the ignition I would unplug each igniton cable one after the other, there should be a drop in engine speed if the cylinder is ok. If it is not dropping on one this one is bad but it can be the ignition on this one or something else.
Other test could be to unplug the ignition cable for this bad cylinder and test the spark on a separate spark plug or using the capacitive strobe light for the test (no spark – no flash).

You don?t have any misfiring? I would assume that a sticking inlet valve gives misfiring shooting into the carbs (on a sticking outlet I am not shure what it would do).

For finding bad cylinders I also like an infrared thermometer (looking like a laser gun), you can measure temperatures very lokaly (e.g. on the exhaust manifold at each cylinder) and without touching the part.

From what you tell it seems repeatable, how do you get the engine back running well? you say cleaning the plugs?

How are the valve gaps?

If it is a sticking valve this should show in a compression test, I assume

Just some thoughts, no professional checklist

Peter

Peter S30

16 July 2008 at 08:13 #47422

Here is the list I received, details and prices ask Jeff

Attached files

DB_Lagonda_or_Aston_DB_2_Parts_list.pdf  

Peter S30

14 July 2008 at 13:11 #47417

Dear Colin,

thank you for the link, yes I thougt about it and will contact some of these metalock or stitching companies, but I think that they can use this technique only when there is enough material to drill holes and put these special screws for stitching in. The broken piece between two adjacent cylinders is so thin (see image), I think it does not work here. The only possibility to use these metalock techniqes here would be to cut out that part, make a new and stitch it were you have more material to do so (closer to the sides of the block). But this is a big job too.

My idea was 4 cylindrical pins fitting precisely in bores in head and block but fixed only in one side so the head stays removable.

further ideas and experience welcome

Peter S30

14 July 2008 at 10:34 #47414

The car is only 3 months with me now. I only drove it 10 miles when purchasing it, I was aware of the problems with the engine already then.

Some history:
Engine VB6H/593
Chassis LB290/1/182
Series II DHC (one out of 3 or 4 but there is always a way to count a Lagonda as almost unique..)
floor change gearbox
Delivered 5.2.57 to a Mr. Cash
after that I have some but not all owners, the last owners before me bought it in 1981 and the next 1995. It had a body restauration and bare metal respray before 1995.
The last owner (B61) told me he never drove it over long distances because it seemed not reliable. I assume the engine had problems at least over the last 10 years. One liner looked like replaced and was sticking out a bit to much over the block.
The odometer reads 35000 miles, (may be 135000 or anything else)

In the mean time I collected some info on block repair:

many of these engines seem to have these cracks
some say it can be left like that but the shop that is intended to do my engine says the would not because the sides of the block would move and the head gasket would leak (water probably)
welding seems a big risk to get distortion of the whole block, needing rebore and non standard thicker liners
a long screw through the block at this place is not possible because of limited space
new blocks are expensive and may distort after first use (any experience?)
another used block would be fine if can be found at reasonable price and without cracks
we think about putting dowel pins/register pins (what is correct in English?) between block and head to prevent that the block sides can move outwards

Yours, Peter

Peter S30

3 July 2008 at 09:53 #47397

Hi Peter,
when and how did it run last time, what did you change in between?, mounting of the starter, cables?

Peter S30

1 July 2008 at 18:33 #47392

Finally I received a photo, the cracks are in two of the thin block parts at the upper end between the liners, see image

I feel inclined to leave it as is, what do you think?

or any welding without heating the block (laser?).

This part is so thin that I do not think the stitching would work here?

Attached files

Peter S30

25 June 2008 at 06:18 #47386

Hi Peter,

Tim Stamper tim@stamper-astonmartin.com offers “original cartrige type” part no. 20.01.746 for GBP 4.90 (according to the info I have dating April 2008)
Ask him to mail you his long pricelist of engine parts.

Peter

Peter S30

18 June 2008 at 12:05 #47378

I found the specification on the can:

HLP 46 has a viscosity of 46 mm2/s (=cSt = centistokes) at 40?C,
there is also HLP 22 and lower available.

When I now think about it, the V12 jacks retract quite slowly with HLP 46. I would try lower viscosity. If the system leaks a bit, then of course it will leak a bit more too.

You will find local suppliers for these oils, on the internet search “hydraulic oil hlp 46”

Have fun with the jacks, don?t creep under the car when using them !