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The former owner had sent me these images some years ago. The car has been sold by German customs auction in May 2010 (see also this forum). The engine had to be completely restored, some parts were missing too. I don?t know who bought it, prices are beyond what I could afford.
In general I agree with Laurence. Personally I would rather look for a car which has not been converted. For the same money if you are lucky you might find a good saloon. Prices for an original drophead are much higher (e.g. Bonhams auction last September saw one in (said to be) good condition at 168000 GBP plus premium, a perfect car is even more expensive). Attached are two photos of an original standard factory drophead for comparison (which always was on the “short” wheelbase which is 10ft-4″ instead of 11ft). In all I like the shape of the orignal DHC more. The back of this former saloon is different: the factory drophead had a lower boot. Typically also details of such conversions are not as good as the originals (fixing of the hood to the rear sides, inside lining) height of the rear seat back looks a bit high.
But if money is limited and you want a V12 in drophead form, than I would especially check the engine. How are all the typical details (compression on all cylinders, oil pressure when hot, to get it hot it take at least a 20 miles drive, what was done when it was overhauled and how often and how long did it run after that, sitting idle for years or not?). The gearbox of the discussed car is from a Jaguar (probably the original is broken), this reduces value too.
Peter
Assuming it is the one offered by Godin Banks (chassis number 16063), then you find all described on their homepage (mid chassis saloon converted into drophead)
Dear Julian,
I still see it different. When Berta Benz did the first long tour in an automobil (0.8 PS) in 1888 her sons had to push at some hills. Most London to Brighton cars are already more performant and have several PS/HP. The Silver Ghost had “only” 50-70 HP from 7 liter capacity. Each of them could complain about limited performance. But would you increase the power of the engine of any of these cars?
The Lagonda owner of a 2 liter or 16/80 in the early 30?s did not have a very slow car. If the owner today thinks it is to slow (on hills) I think he is just a bit impatient (2 liter Lagonda owners comments please!). And if you really need the performance then go for the 4.5l Lagondas (saloons if dropheads are to expensive) or any other more recent and more performant car.
A historic car looses value (not only in money) if it is changed considerably and I love a historic car if I know it is correct as it was buiilt.
Regards
PeterHi,
concerning the wheel embellishers: After some internet searching in 2008 I concluded (I don?t remember how and why) that a set specified as “Austin A40 Devon,Somerset S/S AceType Wheel Rim” from classiccarparts-uk.co.uk would fit. The seller wrote to me at that time:
“I have supplied some of these for a Lagonda before.They measure approx 42.5cm in outer diameter, with the inner diameter being approx 34cm and the width is just short of 2″.They are for a 16″ wheel…The Lagonda i supplied them for was 1950 – 1958,2.6 to 3 Litre. Does this sound like what you are after? Regards A.M”
They are in stainless steel (not chrome) longer lasting but not the same brilliance as chrome. Mounting was very difficult because they would fit better if they were 5 mm larger in diameter. I had to modify the fixing clips.
Here are similar looking ones, on ebay from the same seller: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALVIS-TA-21-S-S-Ace-Type-Rim-Embellisher-/390309158202?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ae03d1d3a
Best you check with him about dimensions. Let us know the result of your researchMore Power – originality and Replica
For me still the goal is an original car, as original as possible. This would be the body as it left the factory, ideally with its orignal paint and leather (with some cracks here and there and some repairs as good as possible). The original engine and chassis, stamped with their numbers and technically not altered.
It makes sense to me to change a seal from leather to a modern one if the old one makes problems, I do not see a need for electronic ignition, superchargers that had not been on the car when new, or a gearbox from another car that had synchromesh if the original had not and so on. And I really do not see the need for double the power than the engine had when it was new. The car than has lost its character, it is no longer a historic vehicle, just looking like one. I would do these tricks on a modern car, put a big strong engine in a little car for surprising the others in traffic.
Description for direct image upload again, it is not really difficult:
you edit your post, below the field of text to post is “Attachements” press on “Manage Attachements”, it opens a new window for up to 5 files to be uploaded. At the right side of the empty fields is a button “Browse”. When you click it you can browse your computer and select the file to upload. You can repeat that for each of the 5 files. After that press “Submit” in the Manage Attachements window. It takes several seconds to upload. When successfull you will find the uploaded files listed in that window, press “Close Window”. In the end press “Submit” for the post itself.
Anybody still having problems: let me know where you are stuck
Dear Mark,
I am very sad to hear about the death of your father. My condolescence to you and your family. I admire how strong he still was in his age mentally and physically despite cancer (driving 180km from cancer treament) and always helping with knowledge on Lagondas. Certainly the most experienced man on V12s.
Thank you for your reply on the timing, images attached. I will use the 10deg before TDC to make a second white mark on the pulley for ignition timing.
Description for image upload see additonal description in “General Topics”, “Ideas Questions..”
I do not know very much about Rapiers, from what I see it looks like a very low body (not original, made for racing) mecanically it looks good, much work seems to have been done as suggests the claimed 120kGBP spent. I would call Bishopgray for more information as they are mentioned to have done all the work on this car. They may also know how much has been changed on the car (supercharger?). Search this forum for Bishopgray phone numbers.
Dear Laurence,
this is cool! I still have the Trico glas jar but the vacuum suction mechanism is missing and they installed an electrical pump instead. With your input I searched the internet and found this nice description http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccz/technic/windscreen_washers.pdf. The complete system with jar can be bought from Holden http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=040.000 or ebay, nothing cheap available at the moment
PeterI understand the mechanism as follows: The outer side of the spring presses against the inside of the cap when the lever is not turned and is reduced in circumference slightly when turned. If so, I assume you need a new cap. As pressing a new one is to expensive (tooling cost) I would have one made on a lathe. If the walls are a bit thicker (to the outside, assuming it still fits in the door) it is stiffer and even better.
Alistair: for better understanding you might add the image of the cap tooreevsy sold his car some time ago but he has sent me this image of the starting handle before. And I found that the starting handle of an MGA fits (it is a bit to short so only allows half turns and it does not have the rubber stopper in the middle but it works for turning the engine for ignition timing etc.).
I have no information about toolkitsSounds interesting the products you mentioned (liquid intelligence, 190C boiling point and the descaling product) let us know your experience
As for the water pump, here is the link of the manufacturers homepage again, give them a call, I did that when I bought mine and they were very helpfull
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_Water_Pumps-EWP80__12V__ELECTRIC_WATER_PUMP___PART_No__8005-details.aspxI would remove the air cleaner to see if the SU carburettor pistons are moving freely. You can test moving the piston up with your finger (engine not running) and it should go back smoothly without sticking. I had a piston sticking sometimes. Then I loosened the 2 screws slightly which are holding the bell, positioned the bell so that the pistons move freely and fixed the screws again. Check again after fixing. The suction chamber (bell) mounting is very delicate, if it has been moved by the polisher the pistons may stick.
The other potential problem is if a piston has a bit to much play it needs good oiling otherwise the suction when opening the throttle is not enough to pull it up (air leak). I have this on one of my carbs. As yours was fine before I think it is more likely the sticking described above.
Another thing to do might be cleaning the fuel filter. In my car it is the original one with a big number of metal plates creating the small channels for the filtration. It was full of debris.
Ignition timing has not changed ?
You might try Mel Cranmer [email]melcranmer@talktalk.net[/email] He has built several V12 Le Mans replicas and may have such parts left from these operations