Forum Replies Created
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Ooh is Alain de Cadenet a “celeb”? I remember lending him an 18mm box spanner to change the plugs on his (pre war obviously) Alfa Romeo at a Brooklands Reunion many years ago, so that at least indicated a willingness to get his hands dirty. Will Hammond at least do that?!
Julian….you’re an odd one! You’re in the “trade”, which in period might have made you “beyond the pale”. But we’re probably all “odd ones” in our own ways, and if you’re not “one of us”, you’re very welcome!
Laurence
Quite right…I did think of that, oh well!
You don’t need to own a Lagonda to join the club, in fact I wasn’t an owner when I joined. Once I was a member, I advertised for an LG6 or V12 drophead, received two responses, and ended up buying my much loved V12 as a result.
Laurence
Sorry to be pedantic, but surely he’s only “one of us” if he is a member of the Lagonda Club?
Otherwise: disinterested, poseur, investor, too many cars to bother joining yet another club, sees no point in mixing with the likes of us, not a “club person”, doesn’t know there is a club (see “disinterested”)….add your own category!Doh! Yes, should have thought of that. The bearings should all be new, but that doesn’t mean they won’t have brass cages.
Groan! It’s not easy this, is it!
So…anyone know, categorically, whether there are or aren’t, yellow metal parts in the LG45/LG6 rear axle?!
Expecting the axle to be empty (given that the drain plug was 2 or 3 turns undone), I removed the plug…..and the axle was full of oil after all. Of course if I hadn’t checked, it would have been empty! Still want to use a multigrade/thinner oil, if I can find something suitable and safe to use
Laurence
I spoke with Castrol’s technical department today. They thought their Syntrax 75W-140 would be best, given motorway use and longer journeys (more heat in the axle), but if shorter journeys the norm, Syntrax 75W-90. Both oils are full synthetics, but one big proviso is that the 75W-140 is aggressive to “yellow metals”. I don’t think the LG6 rear axle contains any brass or bronze components, except perhaps drain and level plugs; as non-moving parts, would they be affected?
Laurence
Hi Peter,
I’ve since found Morris Lodexol 80W-140, it’s a semi-synthetic, not full synthetic. Multigrade and would appear ideal. I’m not convinced that a thick oil is doing any favours to this axle, viz my comment regarding the star wheel and pin wear because of inadequate lubrication.
Incidentally, whilst the chassis is largely identical, Lagonda used their own rear axle for the LG6, and the 120 David Hine recommendation comes from his “Revised Hand Book for 4.5 Litre M45 R & LG45 models & LG6 (Engine only)”..but it does include the ENV rear axle…..it says so in the V12 manual, but no reference to LG6 in the 4.5 litre manual…but obviously it is that axle.
Still hoping to take the LG6 to the AGM, just hope there aren’t many more unexpected issues to deal with!Laurence
David,
Not sure of current Calais situation, but last week we returned from the UK with our Riley via Newhaven-Dieppe; noted Paris (& Rouen) both signposted from there. We normally travel Dover-Calais but wished to avoid anything likely to promote overheating.Haven’t heard of this event…at least traffic should be easy in Paris then, as, of course, all of Paris is away on holiday in August. Enjoy!
Laurence
Someone has now taken us up on this; so if you were pondering; you’re too late!
Had alarming shaking at anything above 40mph with my LG6 as first bought. The previous owner had gone through all the technical stuff…but strangely hadn’t noticed that the OSF wheel had been rebuilt out of round! Being a special, you could see it as you drove. Took one of the V12’s wheels with me when I went to collect the car….problem solved.
To add to the above, if the rods/levers of the system are adjustable (sorry, my only Lagonda brake experience is V12 & LG6 hydraulic), it is more than likely that well meaning meddlers in the past have adjusted things badly, or to take up wear.
Levers should ideally be arranged so that arc of the pull occurs at 90 degrees. Variations from that will significantly increase pedal pressures. My brother had an Alvis with a rod operated braking system, and I was utterly amazed at the huge improvement gained by cleaning, unseizing, greasing and correctly adjusting levers. Afterwards it would easily lock all 4 wheels at 30mph.
It would be wise to do all this before you consider fitting a servo.I’ve always felt car styling lost its way in the immediate post war period. The war of course interrupted continuity, and American influence became stronger, hence the number of bloat-mobiles that appeared to blight our roads.
This creation to me illustrates perfectly that “lost way”, it seems a mixture of styles…I suspect it might have looked better on the drawing board. So glad you directed us to the other pictures. The rear end is indeed pretty attractive, whereas, perhaps more so with pre war cars, the front is gorgeous and the rear an afterthought.
Agreed it would be fairer to see it in the flesh. For years, I considered the DB Rapide a bit of an awkward looking car, but now I’ve seen a few for real, I’ve come to consider them pretty attractive…so photos can mislead….like people, some cars just don’t photograph well.Laurence
Most of the body seems to be there so hopefully this can be restored and originality retained.
Unreal to think this car was bought with preservation in mind…from the previous link/video, I got the impression the cars were largely just dirty/weatherbeaten, but these pictures (and the zoom facility is great!) show truly advanced neglect! The rusted out toolcase bottom indicates this car must have stood outside and not under cover for some time. To be fair, maybe the car was bought in this condition…I wonder when it was last on the road?
The km/h speedo is interesting, I wonder how many prewar Lagondas have those. Also note the non-Lucas headlamps, but above all, the outstanding originality of this car….which makes its condition all the more shameful.
It will be very interesting to see how this fares at the auction. The estimate has to be a come-on, unless people are tiring of barn finds, or overwhelmed by the sheer number of such cars coming up at the same time. I seem to recall the first few cars at the Ellard sale sold for reasonably sensible prices, but soon some sort of hysteria prevailed!
Laurence
Hi,
Good question! I think this really has to be a personal decision.
If I was buying a car still wearing its orginal paint, or most of it, I would feel pretty well obliged to keep it that way. If on the other hand, as is most likely, the car has had one or more repaints….then I would go for whatever I thought was most attractive to me, and suited the car itself. That said, I would try to use the colours used by the factory at the time.
For example, my first car was (and I still own it) a 1951 Riley RMB. It was originally painted dismal black, as so many were. In the 60s it was repainted blue; when the guy I bought it from owned it, it was resprayed maroon. It is nearing the end of restoration; I couldn’t abide black, so I have chosen Autumn Red and Dove Grey, both colours from the factory paint chart; two tone, which most Riley’s weren’t, but it is what I think suits the car, and my nod to originality is using factory shades.
I’ve known for many years that this is the “perfect” scheme for a Riley RM. But! How many will agree with me? Not many, I suspect. So that is why I think it really is down to you…after all, it is your car, you bought it and will doubtless be spending more on it…so what’s wrong with choosing your own “perfect” scheme!
I don’t think you would be frowned upon for not returning the car to its factory colour, especially given its history. Remember you will need to consider what goes with the colour of the upholstery. If that is good and original, that might narrow your choice perhaps.
Be interesting to see others’ views on this topic!
Laurence
Hi Colin,
Frazer Nash…built in Kingston
AC….built in Thames Ditton (where I used to live, and could see the factory grounds, latterly built over with appalling modern housing).
Also HRG….built in Tolworth
British Salmson…I believe built in Raynes ParkI think there is a perception that cars were only built in the Midlands….sad to think that there was actually quite a spread of motor manufacturing in the South East, now just a fading memory.
Post war you could point to racing car manufacture…Cooper in Surbiton, Connaught at Send, near Woking….talking of which, McClaren is at Woking so there is some link there!
Laurence