Forum Replies Created
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David,
I suspect there are indeed more handbooks than cars, at least in so far as LG6s are concerned. My experience derives from looking at adverts like that one, my interest being that I happen to know that the family of the second owner of my car have the original handbook (or perhaps a postwar replacement, as it is stamped “Davies Motors”).
Unfortunately it is very tatty with no cover, yet they feel it is worth ?100! Sad. I’d say that one advertised is a bit pricey, but then, from the few photos provided, it does appear to be in excellent condition.
LaurenceThat is an LG6 handbook. Seen the advert now, & the index includes “Torsion Bars”. But yes, that is an original Lagonda handbook.
Laurence
John Batt told me Land Rover TREs were a straight substitute for those on the LG6 (therefore also V12), at last year’s AGM meeting. Didn’t go into detail, and there is also the problem that some of these are “high angle”, necessitated by the the IFS system.
Laurence
My only knowledge is of P100s, of which I have several. They all have dipping reflectors, but not all have the dipping solenoid. Assuming the P80 is similarly built, you might find the easiest option is simply to acquire and fit the same solenoid type that you find in the one that does have the complete assembly, as I think you’ll find the non-dipping one has everything you need apart from the operating solenoid.
LaurenceThe panel fit looks…interesting. Wonder how much more interesting it gets on bumpy roads and speed humps.
Hi David,
I don’t recall it being fearsomely expensive to have the parts made. I had the coachbolts and dome nuts made in stainless, which at least saved on having the nuts chrome plated. The only difficulty was sourcing lead…..not a material engineering firms machine, as rule! I went to a scrap dealer for that. Unfortunately the lead sheet they had wasn’t as thick as required; simply resolved by doubling up on the number of lead “washers” to be made.
Might it be worth a word with Robin regarding the possibility of having these parts made by the Club spares service? Some of the weights on my V12 wheels are aquare lumps, so if my experience is typical, there must be some demand for correct items.
LaurenceI recall that when I investigated sources for these for my LG6 wheels, that I concluded the RR/Bentley versions were not the same.
One would imagine that Dunlop (and the rims are certainly Dunlop) would have provided a standardised wheel balancing system. But it seems the rims were provided uncut, with each manufacturer coming up with their own system. My odd pair were uncut, so it seems some manufacturers didn’t bother with balancing, or just wound lead wire around appropriate spokes.
LaurenceHi David,
I ended up having some made, as two of the wheels on my LG6 special had none; indeed the wheel rebuilder had to cut holes in them for the special coachbolts. I think you’ll find you need to add aluminium and steel to the lead and fibre you mention. That is also the arrangement on my V12’s wheels, but neither those nor the LG6 wheels have the “cup shaped cover” you refer to.
IF such covers were standard, I would also be interested in a set.
LaurenceStrangely the V12 has these, for lubricating the fan bearings; a bit old fashioned for the late 30s one would think…but then perhaps Lagondas had a lot in stock and were looking to divest themselves.
Your best bet really is autojumbles, that’s where I got mine. Take a nipple with you, then you can be sure you’re buying a greasegun with the correct fitting. From memory, autojumblers are awash with greaseguns, so you’re likely to buy a good quality one for very little.
LaurenceDavid,
I have some photos I took recently of the reverse switch on my LG6, email (see profile) me with your email address and I’ll email them to you.Laurence
A good buy at ?45. Only criticism is that it could do with more photos, but Geoff Seaton’s book has all you need. Beyond that, there are books of reprints of period road tests, which you might find interesting; unfortunately the print quality of the original magazines wasn’t great, so photos in particular come out poorly.
Laurence
Agree with David. As you say, bonnet straps were a requirement for racing at Brooklands etc pre-war. Because of this, they appear to have become a “go faster” accessory; a shame to spoil an original car.
Laurence
“Lagonda: a History of the Marque” (I think that’s the title!) by Davey and May, large book with dark blue dust jacket. Occasionally comes up on ebay, well worth buying, mainly concentrates on the pre-war history and models, which is the section written by Arnold Davey.
If it’s like the “4.5 litre Lagondas in Detail” book, you might well be disappointed to find much repetition (can one plagiarise one’s self?!) with your “in Detail” book, but here you get the whole story and the roots and development from your car.
Laurence
Had a really nice pair of rear springs made up for my LG6 special by Paddington Springs. As the chassis has been shortened in that area (the builder thought it was a long chassis, despite the “12” prefix indicating short!), these springs have to be shorter. Unfortunately, whatever they did, the ride height came out incorrect. After at least 3 attempts, they gave up (and never charged me for them!).
I took the springs to Jones Springs in Darlaston, and expected all sorts of technical questions, instead of which, he simply asked what height difference I was after. Spot on first time, very pleased.
Assuming similar set up to the Lagonda, you’ll have a fixed eye directly mounted to the chassis, and a shackle at the other end, which allows for the distance between spring eyes to lengthen and shorten according to road surface.
Incidentally, are you certain the leaves should be curved? On some cars, they are intentionally flat; a decent spring specialist should have the specifications to work to.
LaurenceThanks all for replies. I hadn’t realised that one could still buy correct replacement cylinders. I did know about stainless sleeving, but these cylinders are pretty tolerant of some rust pitting, from experience with my V12.
The cylinders have different markings side to side, yet one at least is a perfect match in all respects to one I have off my V12, so they probably are all original.
In the end I used Julian’s method with a few tweeks:Removed boots, scraped out most of the rust with blunt pointed knife, then kitchen scourer wire wool. Then sprayed with WD40. Found a socket a nice close fit to the bore, then as Julian, in a vice, tighten, tap cylinder casing (not too hard) with hammer, retighten. Let WD40 soak overnight. Repeat again.
With one cylinder, I connected a tyre pump compressor to the bleed valve (bolt in brake fluid inlet), and one of the pistons popped out; easy to press the other out.
With the second cylinder, must have been rustier, that trick wouldn’t work. Sprayed with WD40 frequently, gradually wound each piston in, until eventually, first one, then the other, freed off enough for the internal spring to return the piston. Eventually one was free enough to force out by pushing the opposing one in. By this method, although it took longer, there is no damage to the spring or seal spreaders (neither of which are supplied in seal kits).
AS an aside, I did try banging the cylinder vertically downwards on a flat steel plate, hoping that inertia and the return spring pressure might free a stuck piston…probably a forelorn hope given the light weight of the aluminium pistons. What did surprise me is that this did slightly crack the boot flange. So…don’t try that!
Laurence
Laurence