Forum Replies Created
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Fascinating, I have the V12’s boot lock in pieces, and there are many similarities. For one thing, it’s only less slightly crudely made … I guess it didn’t need to be pretty.
LaurenceAgreed. Part of the problem I suspect is that it’s not “mechanical”. Whilst that is correct, the reality is that many electrical problems turn out to be mechanical; a loose or dirty terminal, a broken wire, a sticking brush, etc. But there is still a perception that electrics are a black art, when really, most issues can be resolved just using common sense.
As you say, using a multimeter opens up an easier route to diagnosis. One thing I learnt from the instructions was how to measure voltage drop, simply by setting to the low voltage scale and connecting the clips to the two sides of a connection … I know I was surprised to see the needle move in a situation where I would have thought that impossible!
LaurenceYou’re welcome, glad you got it sorted.
Laurence
Hi David,
I believe the sender in my Riley RMB has an 85 ohm resistance, so 60 sounds fine. Reading your detailed findings, the gauge works, and I think you’re saying that when the float is moved, you get a reading traversing from 0 – 60 ohms. If that’s the case. I suspect your problem is a poor connection between the sender unit and earth.On my V12, I see a secondary wire has been added from the sender unit to the tank body, so it’s not a rare problem! Indeed, as tanks are flexibly mounted via non-conducting materials, ie rubber and canvas, the actual earth path is primarily via the copper petrol feed pipes. If they’ve been replaced by plastic, there’s your problem.
In all cases the best resolution is to run an earth wire from the body of the sender (or of course earth terminal if it has one) to the chassis. If like my V12, there are plenty of screws into the chassis, for example holding clips for the loom, and petrol piping, that a terminal could be fixed to. Ideally, clean the chassis to bright steel and place the terminal first, before re-attaching the screw, washer & clip.
Laurence
Looks like he aims to retire on the proceeds of his ebay sale.
Back in 2007, Michael Valentine recommended Vintage Headlamp Restoration International Ltd of Limestone Cottage Lane S6 1NJ tel 0114 285355, http://www.vintage-headlamp-restoration.com as he was very happy with the replacement P100 lenses they supplied. “Weren’t cheap but worth it”. Might be worth a try, they don’t necessarily deal in headlamps exclusively.
LaurenceHi David,
Well, I last drove my V12 in 1983, and that was simply for a house move, otherwise 1981. Not taxed since then, and that predated the SORN arrangements with that style of V5 log book. Work and then property maintenance here have delayed recommissioning (a little). There’s always something to thwart progress! We moved from that property, preparatory to moving to France, in 2008, and left things to stand which at least saved repeatedly renewing pointless SORN. Beginning to see light at end of the tunnel, so I thought I’d update to my new UK address earlier this year. All fine and new log book received in February. Nothing else from DVLA, and getting to think about it recently, I thought it’s not “taxed” and it’s not “SORN”, perhaps I had best state SORN to save any potential issues. Yes I could “tax” it foc, but that would require insurance, the premium for which would be unsupportable for a car in pieces/not on the road, given its obscene value.
I had the V12 perhaps optimistically booked on to the Pyrenees Tour early June, so I’m probably the only participant grateful for the tour’s postponement. As usual property maintenance delayed work on the V12 … getting the engine out of the LG6 also adding to the delay. Most annoying though is that the son of an English friend over here has paint and electroplating equipment that I bought and had sent to him, as he had so volunteered and was coming over to France to visit his father 22nd February. Only he didn’t arrive, just made excuses to his father, until of course, the pandemic lockdown gave him a valid reason for not making the journey. I’m at the point where I need the paint in particular, so not at all happy! So it’s back to sawing up fallen trees etc. Grr!
Even worse, as the son is making the journey in his van, he is also supposed to be taking the LG6 engine back to the UK for rebuild by Paul Rogers. Grrrr!
Laurence
There’s a pair advertised in the latest Newsletter!
You should find a vintage dynamo pretty straightforward to work on, however if it isn’t, you could try this firm; DBJ Auto Electrical, in Uxbridge (West London). They specialise in old car electrics and have been going since 1949. Have seen them recommended by many, and they’re not expensive. This from the Riley RM (my other car) Forum:
“I recently had occasion to need a dynamo overhaul and took it to DBJ Auto Electrical in Uxbridge. On arrival Brian said they could do it and it would be ready in two days. In the event it was ready in just one day. On enquiring what they actually do to them, they strip it all and clean everything, check it electrically and renew anything that was found to be suspect – bearings, insulation, brushes, nuts, washers and Woodruff key and so-on. Mine needed a new armature as it had shed a copper segment. They have some new old stock C39 armatures in stock so I got one of those, new brushes and the field coils buzzed out to spec and re-wrapped. When those armatures are exhausted there is a contractor who reconditions armatures for them. All was cleaned and painted and squeaky clean and tested. The price? ?55 plus VAT, total ?66.All this was such good service by people of a more elderly persuasion who evidently know their stuff of old, and I am happy to recommend them for a quick, effective and above all, inexpensive service.”
Hope this helps
LaurenceMust admit, it’s nice to have a tool thatis entirely right for the job!
Problem I recall was undoing the drain plug on the G10 gearbox on my V12. It was really tight until completely undone. Reason found was that the previous owner had drained the gearbox but not cleaned all the detritus from the threads before screwing the plug back in.
LaurenceWow, that must have been tight! I just use a short flat steel bar edgeways for loosening / tightening the similar item on the G10 gearbox and Lagonda rear axle. It doesn’t need to be tight as it isn’t holding anything. Just tight enough to be sure it won’t self-unscrew.
Laurence
One of the reasons I bought my LG6 was that it had had a complete professional mechanical rebuild, with the bills to prove it. Those bills show that the work was entrusted to a variety of “specialists”. Unfortunately the work almost universally proved to have been done by untrained chimps who had been peculiarly instructed to do the job as badly as possible. Twenty years later, I am still resolving issues. Last year, I took the car to Haynes Motor Museum to have the steering checked; they found one front wheel cambered in, and the other out! Fixing that and other steering settings cost nearly ?500 alone, but at last, the car now feels safe on corners! I’ve re-rebuilt the gearbox, rear axle and steering gearbox. That leaves the engine …. yes, that too will be re-rebuilt shortly.
Sometimes it pays to buy a car in “unknown” condition.
Sounds an interesting car. I’m wary of the impression that a perfectly good car has simply been laid up to await work. Doesn’t necessarily mean anything dramatic/serious, but I’d ensure the agreed price factors in for the unknown.
Good luck!
LaurenceAaah, yes. I found exactly the same issue with the canister on my LG6 engine when I bought the car. It seems the steel gauge used could have been thicker, however doubtless previous owners had overtightened in attempting to cure a leak. Presumably a problem appreciated by the filter manufacturers, as later versions rely on a central bolt passing through the centre of the filter. I have one on my Riley RMB … that said, there are instances where overtightening of those has deformed the base of the canister.
Hope an easy fix.
LaurenceHow annoying! Have you used some unusual oil?
I suggest you clean all oil from the mating surfaces, clean or make a new paper gasket, then assemble with the gasket coated with a good quality silicone gasket goo. Take care to entirely coat both sides of the gasket, but don’t overdo it, as excess goo is pointless and could separate and block an oilway.
Let it cure for a few minutes lightly assembled. Then retighten some more. After say 12 hours, fully tighten. I’d be surprised if this doesn’t solve your problem permanently.Laurence
Hi Julian,
Many thanks, useful tip!
LaurenceHi Mark,
I hope the vinegar does a good job for you. Don’t forget to check daily, and every couple of days, take it out of the vinegar and wash with an old toothbrush or whatever gives good access, with washing up liquid, and rinse. Riffle around with a suitable tool to break away detached rust and debris, rinse and dry, then back in the vinegar. This will enable the vinegar to act on fresh surfaces and speed up the job, as well as giving you an idea of progress.
Laurence