Forum Replies Created
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Hi David,
Amp / hours I think is not so much output as an indication of how long the battery can sustain under load. The original equipment for my V12 and LG6 was 2 Lucas SLTSR15E batteries, and I daresay the same for the LG45. Unfortunately I’ve tried previously to find a specification for that number, but without success; even the classic batterymaker (Lincon I think) I spoke to had no clue!
Firstly, I think I’m correct in saying the Ah won’t increase, just the voltage, with a pair of batteries, necessarily connected in series. When I bought my V12, it came with a huge pair of Crompton Parkinson batteries, which must have been seriously larger than those originally specified. Quite why the previous owner fitted those I’m unsure; modern batteries are more efficient so a smaller battery would undoubtedly be just as good. All I can say is that the CP batteries ensured starting was never a problem!
My LG6 came fitted with a DETA 77Ah battery, which worked fine, and was probably unnecessarily powerful. I ran the car for severald days on the Champagne rally with no charging due to a fault with the regulator. That battery of course didn’t survive my LG6 being laid up 2000 -2016, so I used the Shield 291 battery from my RMB, which had thoughtfully run a big end. The Shield battery is 58Ah, and had no problem starting the LG6 … with the proviso that compressions are low due to idiot “professional engineers” machining out the bores too far. I’ve run the car day and night over considerable mileages, and never had a problem. Given that, I think the 71Ah one would give you sufficient margin.I am still recommissioning my V12, and ideally hope to find 6v batteries for that that are dimensionally correct, have original appearance (visible bus bars), and ideally will be correct enough for the original battery retaining bars to be used. I’ve measured up, and the batteries would need to be 26-27cm long at the top surface, have a maximum body width below the top of 20cm, and be 16 – 18cm tall, measured from the battery base to the top surface of the battery.
Hopefully this is of some help to you. Do your dimensions tally with mine?!
If anyone has come across a battery supplier able to supply such dimensionally correct batteries, please let me know!
Laurence
Understood. Unfortunately I daresay the construction on my V12 dhc is different, especially as it is a late one. There are quite a few LG45 dhcs … why not email/telephone members in the list, surely one would be happy to photo the relevant areas for you?
LaurenceHi David,
That number plate/light unit appears identical to the one fitted to my V12, other than the style of the “D” light lenses and lens frames. These light units were made by Lucas, and were fitted to many cars prewar and postwar … indeed my brother’s 1949 Triumph Roadster had the identical unit. I have a spare in very poor condition which you could borrow to copy if nothing closer to home turns up … I could bring it to this year’s AG, covid allowing.
LaurenceHi,
Were they brass originally? If not, it might simply be that you need to use steel / stainless. Two thoughts alternatively, you could try two well greased washers between the nut and the clip, or a spring washer (you could experiment with single coil and internal star types), assuming they would be practicable for that torque. In this instance, place the spring washer BETWEEN the leaves of the clip. You may need to compensate for resulting reduced tightness of the clip on the tube; tape or rubber strip around the tube, or re-make the clips to suit. You appear to have sufficient thread height on the studs to be able to have the nuts a little higher up the thread.One other thought. There are washers….and there are washers. Most of the washers on my V12 are hard steel. Some have been replaced by misguided chimps with pretty new ones that have patently deformed in use. It might be worth trying other washers.
LaurenceYes, that’s the one, the post war DB one that is. Strange cars to me in that they look odd and unatractive in photos, yet really nice in the metal.
I believe it’s a form of investment, the values of which are much discussed on this forum!
Hi Peter,
Auctions are fine as evidencers of value, however the downside is that, for that to “work”, you need at least two people who are rather keen to buy the item being sold. Also the context of the sale in terms of the pandemic needs to be considered. Viewing would also be difficult, so the “audience” for cars at auction will be more limited than is usually the case. All of that will impact selling prices, and it would be interesting to see how well/badly other lots sold.I saw this car at the Ellard auction; it was one of the first lots to sell, and sold for what seemed a reasonable figure; as the sale progressed, auction fever seemed to take hold and some daft prices were achieved. A V12 dhc I was interested in, but became less so when I discovered the engine was seized solid with rust, sold for ?12000. EAR659 had fetched little more, and was in far better condition and running well!
Another factor is that most independent coachbuilders failed to achieve the beauty of Frank Feeley’s designs. This car exemplifies that, sadly, making Alan Good’s purchase all the more strange. It’s not ugly by any means, but it looks dumpy. The boot is too bulbous, the roof too square, the windscreen too upright. Oddly it has much in common with the V12 Rapide of course; perhaps it looks better with the hood down, or may be the paint scheme is not helping. That distinct raised crease in the wing profile apex is also rather “last year’s fashion” for 1938.
Agreed odd that the wiper motor rebuild (note it’s not even the correct Berkshire motor!) is highlit, leaving one pondering the perhaps implied need for serious expense on mechanical work elsewhere! The engine bay certainly presents well, however.
One question … just where would one put one’s luggage in this car?! The cabinet behind the rear seat is for guns/golf clubs, and not much more.
On a personal note, thanks for the alert, and to Bonhams, for revealing the actual engine number to be V12/77, filling yet another “hole” in my personal register of V12s! It also resolves another issue. I think it was in Pat Moss’s autobiography that I read that her father had owned a V12 Rapide, and pondered which one … so it seems that it wasn’t a Rapide, but the error is forgiveable given the similar styling cues. Coincidentally, at that time it seems the Moss family lived in Thames Ditton, where I was to live for many years, with my V12, in more recent times.
Laurence
Been up for sale for some time, at some mark up on the price paid at auction. They don’t quite get round to saying that the engine is in fact seized, which rather makes the car a pig in a poke at that price. If that “restoration” was done by a museum, they should be ashamed. Crass and entirely unsuitable paint scheme, door panels renewed with no respect to originality, probably in plastic, and carpets of the cheapest crap imagineable. Nevertheless it could be a nice car with money and love.
See my recent post …
It would be really helpful if someone has photos of which tools fitted where, in these panels. My V12’s panel has 9 pockets, with 6 subsidiary pockets attached to those. The list of tools in the handbook includes 25 tools that potentially could fit … but note that one of the “tools” is “Leather Bag for Large Tools”, which doubtless housed perhaps 10 of those plus others. Maybe some of the pockets held more than one item. The two tappet adjusting spanners for example. Also the “Tyre Valve Key” … actually a pin-drive device for undoing the valve attachment to Ace wheel discs … one of those fell out of my spare panel when I removed it from the wheel cover.
LaurenceHi David,
You should have a rexine covered board with pockets for tools bolted to the “spare wheel” cover via the hinge plate studs. Do you have that? I can supply photos of those from V12s. I assume that was for smaller tools, and a roll was supplied for larger tools. I have one that came with V12 tools in it, but have no way of knowing if it is a factory supplied item. Hopefully someone else has a known genuine one, then perhaps I’ll know either way.
LaurenceLooks pretty similar to the original paint on my V12 engine, so perhaps there is a case for supplies to be stocked by Club Spares. One of the few spares that would suit all, or most, pre war Lagondas.
Laurence
Hi Richard,
Just joined, will do.
LaurenceI still need this, hopefully someone has one going spare, or can loan me one (against a deposit) so that I can have it copied. I can lend a fully restored Sanction 1 mounting in return, if that helps.
Please help!
Laurence
Peter,
Nothing unusual, I have a V12 and LG6, 1939, and can tell you that the engine ID on the bulkhead plate bears no relation to the actual number stamped on the engines. Frankly, I think it was just to help Lagonda servicing. At a major overhaul, they would replace the entire engine with a ready rebuilt one, simply overstamping the chassis number on the engine, that way, the numbers would tie up, even though it was not of course the original engine to the car. That indeed is the story with my LG6’s engine.
Laurence