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I used a 1mm cutting disc on a 4.5 inch angle grinder (maybe used 2 or 3 discs in total – but only about 80p each) and then used a 40 grit flap disc on the same type of grinder (I find that a flap disc is much “kinder” to use than a hard disc).
I also cut out a large “U” shape brake pedal (about 10″ X 10″) by the same method.
Not too much effort involved but quite a lot of time !For some reason I didnt see this post originally.
I had a similiar problem on a different car. I did not have the brake levers I required but I knew all the correct dimensions etc. I also had some originals as patterns.
The 2 levers on the left of the original photo of this post would be fairly simple to make.
I made them out of EN 24T. First I got a supplier to sell me a block of EN24t – roughly the correct overall size. I used the lathe to make the larger central hole and then drilled the other holes separately.
Then I spent a long time cutting /filing the correct shape.
Job done !
I think you could also make the 3rd from left lever in the photo in the same way.
The one on the right would be more difficult but could still be carved out of a solid block.
I was advised beforehand that EN24T was perfectly strong enough for the job and probably stronger than the original anyway !
Any comments from the metallurgists among us ?Also worth checking that you definitely have the chamfer on the inside lip of the sleeve.
Best of luck. I am sure you are slowly getting there. Now you are only worrying about the brakes and not the engine as well !I have just got under my car to check the clearance . It is also 40mm.
I have never had this problem (touch wood) !
I think that your problem must simply be a matter of adjustment. ie the cable is just going too far inside the outer sleeve. Does the pedal go almost to the floor ? If so this is obviously too far.
Check it all over for lost motion. Also maybe file a very slight chamfer on the back end of the cable clevis and chamfer the inside edge of the sleeve so they cannot jam again.
Hope this helps.David, I know from experience how terrifying the dreaded shimmy can be so I felt obliged to find the article that I referred to above.
Eventually I found it. I thought it was only a few years ago but it turned out to be 13 years !!!
The topic was referred to initially by Roger Firth in the Magazine for Summer 2002 (page 6). He suggested that toe out would solve it.
There was then a very interesting article by David Hine in the Autumn 2002 Magazine (page 36). There were also 2 letters in the “Letters section” which are interesting (page 41).
I hope all this helps you solve the problem and ,if you do, perhaps you would write it up in the forum to help others ?Also I think the lead weights in the front bumper referred to by David above were another way of affecting the vibration when it occurred. Therefore it was a way of “damping” the vibration. However do not rely on that to solve the problem !
Had the same on my 3 litre years ago but only happened at slowish speeds ie 20mph.
Check camber and castor and also toe in /out very, very carefully.
There was an article some years ago in the magazine about this and I seem to remember that it was solved by having toe OUT instead of toe in. However this seem odd to me as, on the face of it, this would make the car wander at speed.
Part of the problem seems to be that the axle alters in “shape” over the years I believe (constant banging up and down of the axle over the years or by accident damage) ie you can “lose” (or gain) camber and/or castor angles. The castor angle can be altered by putting in the wedges referred to but you could still have the wrong camber angle.
If castor/ camber is new to you find yourself a Dunlop CG3 castor/camber angle gauge (much nicer to use than a CG4 gauge) in a nice wooden box and all should become clear !!
Also find the article in the magazine as it is interesting.Thanks very much for all the input. I think that the main problem is my back and not the brakes !! I rebuilt the whole of the system when I rebuilt the car and the brakes are very good. It is the amount of pedal pressure required that is the problem !
The handbrake is also very good which is what makes me believe that I need to increase the leverage on the foot pedal ie by some type of servo.
Anyway many thanks for all the suggestions and also any more ….Well done David. It looks as if your extreme persistence has been rewarded. Many others would probably have given up ! I hope you now have many happy trouble free miles.
Thanks very much for the conclusions which I am sure will be very useful to others.
As a matter of interest what oil are you using ?Thanks for all that information Bill as it rather confirms everything that I had come to believe about waterless coolants. I do however find it rather worrying that these expensive “waterless coolants” appear to being “pushed” quite strenuously at vintage and classic car owners – as if these products are the answer to all our problems !
And please dont forget (although it usually is) Alta in Surbiton both pre war and also after the war !!!
Just in case you missed it on the VSCC Forum there was an answer about my thermo syphon system point above posted (by someone who seemed to know) as follows : –
“I suggest that the reason is because Glycol does not expand as much as water, does not absorb as much heat per pint, and is thicker (more viscous). All these factors make it less successful in a system which relies on expansion, etc to work, with no pump.”
Of course if the coolant does not absorb as much heat (as water) then maybe this is the reason why you can get localised overheating in a system which is very inefficient in design (as I think we all know).
Anyone with more technical knowledge out there care to comment please ?
Just as a follow-up on the controversy about waterless coolants. I stand to be corrected perhaps but I have been informed on apparently very good authority (by someone who designs cooling systems on modern vehicles for a living) that “waterless coolants” are nothing more than neat antifreeze. I understand that nothing is better than water at dispersing heat and antifreeze does not do this anything like as well as water – therefore it is possible that there can be localised overheating in an engine with “waterless coolants”. This overheating is not manifested as boiling or rising temperature as with water.
Maybe this is the reason why “waterless coolants” are not recommended for thermo-syphon systems ?
Take great care !!Yes.ditto.
Julian, you have always given the very strong impression that ,first and foremost, you are an enthusiast. Your very helpful advice at all times – particularly in your posts on this forum – make this clear I think to everybody .
All the very best for the future.Further to my post above I have found the details of the person who made my switch. He is Richard Jones (member number J12) of Cadley, Wilts. Telephone 01672 516 481. Currently rebuilding a 3 litre apparently. I thought I would post this anyway in case it helps anyone else ! No connection except as a satisfied customer.