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Fantastic help and service Colin ! What a Star !
Yes, this is what the Forum is all about. Enthusiasts just trying to help one another.When it comes to wrapping the springs I used “Denso tape” which is a grease impregnated tape used in the plumbing industry to protect copper pipes against corrosion. It is very good at binding to itself and is almost impervious to any water ingress. It is not particularly “pretty” so better to be used on springs that cannot be seen.
I also came across the zinc interleaves but not too keen on those either !!
However I did find out that modern restorers of (I think) MGs use a circa 1mm hard plastic sheet instead of the zinc interleaves and this works just as well. It might be worth researching this possibility if you are interested.
Zinc interleaves can tend to corrode when water gets in which is the reason I did not use them.I found these same brass/bronze “buttons” in the leaf springs on my LG45. I don’t think that they were a temporary fix but part of the original equipment. However the company who reset my springs (Jones Springs) told me not to bother replacing them as they did nothing ! Therefore I left them out and have never had any problems over the last 10 years or so !
Hope this helps.If you are looking for the correct Lucas unit I believe that Classic and Vintage Dynamos (“Jim”) may have one. I think that I saw the correct unit on his stall in the summer. Anyway it would be worth a call as he is helpful and knowledgeable. Phone in UK is 01623 747 666.
Hope this helps.Agreed with Colin – but you will need to clean it out really well.
If you have ever seen the results of castor oil having been left static in an axle, gearbox or engine over a long period of time you would never want to use it again – despite its lubricating properties !With the greatest of respect , that is the whole point – namely that the M45 engine and the G9 gearbox are absolutely the right bits for a 1935 Le Mans racer and perhaps the buyer realised this.
The M45 engine is much more “accurate” than an LG45 engine and also there is the right hand gear change gearbox. ( strictly, I think that the Fox and Nicholls cars were equipped with the T8 rather than the G9 gearbox but what lurks under the floorboards of a Le Mans racer is anybody’s guess as long as the gearlever is in the correct place ie. on the right side of the car and not in the middle).
Also of course the chassis sold at Brightwells has the later Girling brakes (as did the Fox and Nicholls cars) and it is therefore almost bound to be built into an “accurate” Le Mans Racer. All the “right” bits are present and correct – although in what sort of condition they may be we may never know…..
The chassis length is of course not correct for an “accurate” Le Mans racer but that will be a small detail I suspect.It is all very sad. As I understand it this car had been known about for very many years (I heard about it at least 15 years ago). The owner apparently resisted all attempts to buy it. So another nice elegant saloon will be lost and another “Le Mans racer” created !
My feeling is that you are probably correct, Colin. The very fact that the engine doesn’t have a chassis number I think indicates that it was never allocated to a specific chassis in the works.
The worrying thing ,however, is does anyone now have the original engine with the original chassis number on it stored under their bench ? If so perhaps they should check it over very carefully before use …………….I think that the only difference between Sanction 3 and Sanction 4 were “internal” e.g. timing but nothing else .
Yes, as Laurence says, I have always used the tappet clearance check as an indication whether or not one is getting valve seat recession. No problems over the years so far with ordinary road use.
However I think that ethanol in petrol is a far greater problem. My advice (for what it is worth) is to minimise the use of any fuel with ethanol in it. For some years I have only used 97 or 98 octane (usually Shell or BP) in my old cars. Inconvenient (and expensive) I realise but I think it is worth the trouble.Adrian, I am sure someone has this. Can you post a picture so we know what you are looking for ?
Colin, I never had any problem adjusting the servo when I had my M45. It all seemed quite straightforward and it worked very well. I assume that you have looked at pages 29 – 31 of the M45 Instruction book (Club revised edition) ?
Do you have any specific problem ?Thanks very much for the information Julian.
Your technical assessment is very interesting !
Look forward to future findings.
Thanks.
BillJust resurrecting this thread again and with a particular point directed at Julian if he is able to find time to reply.
I see that Historic Competition Services (Julian) currently has a 1939 Delage D6-75 (3 litre straight 6) for sale which seems to have exactly the modification I referred to above. I.E. the water pump seems to blow cooling water in through the back of the head. Presumably the block cools by thermo syphon only.
I just wondered who it was who decided to make this mod and whether it made a lot of difference to the cooling compared to the original system. For those who dont know this type of Delage engine, originally the water pump blew cooling water through a cast iron water rail bolted front to back on the other side of the block.
Julian, if you read this, your thoughts would be interesting when possible!