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Presumably you mean the ignition switch with Mag 1 and Mag 2 on it ? If so, virtually impossible to find I think although the insides are very similar to the system inside the normal Off/side/head Lucas switch. I needed one and I spent some time trying to adapt the standard switch but failed !! However there is a person who can do the job as that is eventually where I ended up. It is indistinguishable from the original. I cant remember his name (he is a 2 litre owner I think) but could find out. Let me know if this is an option you want to follow if you fail to find an original.
I think that the whole of the layout of the 4.5 litre cooling system is incredibly inefficient. The engine was after all originally designed as a marine engine (3 litre) I believe.
Putting the cooling water in the side of the block (with equal sized holes – therefore the front one takes the easiest route straight up to the top) just makes things worse.
With the 3 litre Lagonda engine (originally designed for thermo syphon) all the cooling water goes in at the back of the head. I modified my M45 engine to work in this way and cured all the problems. With this mod the block just thermo syphons and all the cooilng water goes across the head just where it is all needed.
I would be interested to know if anyone else has tried this ?With my M45 I used a jaguar distributor on the exhaust side which is an easy alternative to use. I got fed up with having the magneto rebuilt by so called experts and therefore converted it to a “distributor”. If you are using a Scintilla (horizontal type GN6) this is a very easy conversion. The coil for the mag is tucked away out of sight down below on the chassis and the condenser can be mounted externally on the mag. You use the usual mag points to break the spark. The only obvious difference was an HT cable going in where the earth wire for the mag normally comes out. A mounting internally for the HT cable (holding it against the point normally connected to the mag coil) is the only other thing required. An advantage with this system is that there is a better spark for starting and a spare coil and condenser can be carried at minimum expense.
Malcolm. Sorry only just been able to read your post as we have been having broadband problems. I had a 3 litre for 15 years and I never lubricated the dynamo as there was no provision for it. I feel fairly certain that it does not have sealed bearings and is not lubricated by the engine. The front plate is solid and nothing could get through. I would be worried if there were any holes for “oil mist” !!
My father in law was an autoelectrician and he always told me that far more damage was done by lubricating a dynamo than by leaving it alone. If you oil the dynamo it usually gets on the commutator and then you lose charge ! Literally one or 2 drops of oil are plenty very, very occasionally. Personally I would leave it well alone. If you are very concerned then get the Dynamo off, take it apart and inspect it – if necessary fit sealed bearings. They are fairly easy to work on and you should not be frightened of it !! Hope this helps.Sorry, now found the other site SRD kindly referred us to. Now think it is one of the replica LG45 Rapides as have been able to look at some detail more closely. Any one with more information ?
Hi
Looks like a standard LG45 Rapide to me with 6 cylinder Meadows engine. But is it one of the original 25 or a replica ? It is a bit difficult to see from the photo but one or 2 little details make it possible that it is an original one. I dont want to buy a catalogue ! Does anyone know which one it is ??
As many on the forum will know there was also a V12 Rapide but with a completely different body shape. That was also a very nice car !Used a similar product in my M45 some years ago. Found it a waste of time (and money). Better to resolve the cooling issues I think personally. On my M45 I fed the water pump outlet to the back of the head (like the 3 litre) but that is another story ….
Hi
I have given David privately the telephone number of Bedford Dials which is 01584 810345 for the benefit of any other members. Run by Jonathan Ricketts and his family. Fantastically helpful and also a pre war MG owner. They can produce copies of masses and masses of different dials used over the years and I felt sure they would have this one. They produced a pre war French Jaeger rev counter dial for me specially at a very reasonable cost. I wanted a particular design but they had in their computer 2 or 3 other designs already – copies of which which I could have had much cheaper if I had not been so particular !!
Usual disclaimer. No connection with the company other than as an extremely satisfied customer.Found it after some hunting !!
Pina try Blue Diamond Services – Telephone (UK number ) 01458251147. They should be able to help or maybe point you in the right direction.
These are NEW items they sell for Girling rod brakes.Similiar parts used on Rileys. Sometimes they are smaller sizes but worth while pursuing this avenue. I found the parts that I wanted (LG45) from a Riley specialist . Cant remember now exactly what parts or from whom but post again if you fail to find what you want.
Yes there was wood and I think there was a good reason for this. It enables one to fix the wing to the wood with screws wherever you need to directly underneath the thin rubber “treads”. Thus none of the screws are seen afterwards – as they might break through the paint. If you had to fix the running board directly to the brackets you would have less options and it would be quite difficult to hit the bracket exactly where you wanted to. This is from my own practical experience. Anyone else agree on this point ??
Cant say for absolute certain but the finish on my very untouched M45 column was chrome. The chrome looked very old and original as if it had been on there for many years ! From the history of the car I doubt that it had been chromed after the car was built.
Modern Dynamo/Alternator. Just a warning to anyone intending to fit one. Check the output on these modern lookalikes. Usually they are at least 40 amp + and depending on how your car is wired you may damage your ammeter. I understand that for our type of cars you should get one that delivers no more than 30 amps. However I think that this type is no longer available. I bought one some years ago for a different car and now need another one . However I cannot find a 30 amp one anywhere so am uncertain what to do next. Anyone have any more information on this subject ??
Hi David
I installed this system when I rebuilt my LG as I had put a similiar one on my M45.
I modified the fuel pressure only because I had been experimenting on another car (1950s Jaguar engine) and realised that these SU pumps deliver fuel at far too high a pressure. It is about 4 psi and I ascetained that 2 psi is more than enough provided that you have the flow rate. I suspect that you could probably even reduce the pressure to 1.5 psi as long as the flow rate is sufficient. The standard pressure is in my opinion far too high for the simple SU carb needle valve and this is one of the causes of flooding (possibly Burlen will not agree with that !). I made up a simple test rig to check the fuel pump pressure so that I knew what I was dealing with. I used a “Pro-Flow” Regulator (about ?30). It is hidden away out of sight on the tank in the outlet pipe. It is very easy to adjust and you can experiment as to what suits your car (or your driving style !).My advice for what it is worth. Fit a single one at the back of the car (a “pusher”) and a single one at the front (a “puller”). Also fit a pressure regulator (at back of car out of sight) and set it at 2 psi. The SU pump normally delivers fuel at about 4 psi which is far too high (in my H.O.) and can cause flooding. Quantity delivered is perfectly adequate.
I have used this system on my LG45 without problems for some years – so far !