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[quote=cahallett]
Regarding a fold flat windscreen … not as standard.
All 16/80 windscreens (somebody will probably correct me on this) were hinged at the top to fold outwards from the bottom to allow for de-misting of the screen.
They would also have had an external Klaxon wiper motor fitted (very few 16/80?s still have this arrangement).Regarding the above post and the wiper arrangement, was this the same external wiper which was used on the later 3 litre and 4.5 saloons ?? I have a spare wiper of this type but it doesnt seem to be made by Klaxon – ie I cant find any maker name on it. Mine is a long rectangular tube with a motor bolted to it. Is this the same ?
Thanks for any input.I think you will find that the 3/4 speed is achieved by the gearing inside the magneto – hence a 3 litre 3/4 engine speed magneto being of the “hens teeth” variety and value – the last one I saw was ?2500 I think !!
With the greatest of respect Colin I think that the 3 litre engine magneto is 3/4 engine speed not 2/3 – at least it was on my 3 litre and every other 3 litre I came across !! The 3 litre used a “Scintilla MN6 -3/4” I think ??I can confirm that Jones Springs are extremely good and helpful. They reset springs for me 12 months after first doing the job so that I had a different ride height. Without any charge. They also have a carrier who will pick up your springs from you at a very reasonable charge – thereby avoiding all the usual question from carriers about how much do they weigh and how big are they.
Nothing seems to be too much trouble. Very happy customer.
No connection to them obviously except as a happy customerThe particular problem with Lagondas I believe (especially the 4.5 litre) is that the type of material used for the blocks in the 1930s continuously eroded and could therefore quickly block radiators (and filters). It does not stop eroding and is still doing so 80 years later !!
This may not be the case with the modern replacement blocks as presumably they are made with modern materials ?? However it is still a problem for those of us with original blocks (like me !).
Anyone else care to comment please ?In the politest possible way, could I ask whether these filters would really have enough surface area to last any length of time before blocking ??
Even with the “top hat” type of filters the club (I believe) supplies there is very little total surface area and they soon block up – with annoying consequences. Wouldn’t a “funnel” shape have even less surface area than a “top hat” – assuming the same length ??Just in case it helps anyone else struggling to make up a rev counter or speedo (or any other instrument). Bedford Dials of Tenbury Wells (01584 810345) can make up faces for all sorts of instruments. They have many existing ones in their library (they may well already have Lagonda ones) and can also reproduce others for quite reasonable prices (in my opinion). Run by a vintage enthusiast and very helpful.
New faces can then be aged with tea leaves, varnish or whatever suits !!!
No connection with Bedford Dials except as a very happy customer !Try David Woods 01243 542521. http://www.chronometricspeedos.co.uk. He put a more modern works in the back of a speedo (not Lagonda) for me as the original bits had seized. Works perfectly and I cant see the difference !
No connection except as a satisfied customer.Most older ball/roller bearings I believe have “retainer rings” which are in brass or similar yellow metal. These are the things which space the ball/rollers apart. There are quite a few of these bearings inside the rear axle !
I understood that the LG45 axle did in fact contain “yellow metals” and that is why the Penrite “mild EP” (or similar) should be used and not a more modern oil.
I have used Penrite “Mild EP” for some years in both an M45 and now an LG45 axle. The blurb says it is 110 SAE.
Does any one have any experience (good or bad) with this ?David, any chance of an update on your tyre pressure testing ?
I would like to know what the experts say about my suggestion for tyre pressures ?
Like David I have found a lower pressure was much nicer but obviously I have (I hope) been quite careful because of the safety aspect.
Theoretically the sidewalls will be softer with a lower pressure but maybe pre war tyres had soft sidewalls anyway so that they needed the higher pressures – at the expense of a good ride (However the roads were better in those days I think ??).
Are there any experts out there who could comment please as it would be interesting ??Have you spoken to Rob Pollock – he is one of the main experts on the S type. Alternatively David Ayre who also knows Lagondas and Invictas ?
As the question was about tyre pressures….
I think that the recommendation in the handbook is for over 32 psi or more. I use Dunlops on my Lagonda but find that anything over 30psi or near to that gives an extremely hard ride. I current use about 24psi which gives very nice ride and handling. I know that this is not recommended and I check the tyres and the position of the inner tube valves very regularly (to make certain that the valve is not being pulled).
The wear on the tyres ,if anything, indicates that the tyre pressure is too high as there is a bit more wear in the centre of the tyre tread (ie not on the outside of the tread). I am satisfied that my pressure gauge(s) are accurate.
I also use a pressure of 22 psi on another car fitted with Blockleys (they recommend 30+ psi) for the same reasons.
Both cars are “tourers” and the bodies on both cars are relatively light in weight.
Any comments on the rights or wrongs of all this appreciated.
Maybe there are differences in the quality of construction of modern “old” tyres and pre war tyres ?I dont know if Webco spring gaiters were used originally but I definitely dont think that they would have wrapped the ends or the spring bolts. I think it would have been impractical.