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For those with a grand garage space, the dimensions of this car are as follows:
The car measures 214? x76? x 72? (max ht.) and weighs ca. 40 cwt.
This means that the car measures just under 18 feet or 5.5 metres long.
I have added a few more pictures of this car.
A Lagonda V12 limo. coming from long term ownership and recently recommissioned prior to sale.
This car was offered around privately towards the end of last year through the club newsletter.
A grand scale car, and I do have a few older pictures of this car if anyone is seriously interested.
It will be interesting to note what this car makes at auction, given that limo’s have historically been the cheapest of the V12 cars.
Stewart hi
I fully agree, that the color does nothing for this car, perhaps a two-tone scheme might help as well.
But one has to see past the color in this instance and then you can see it is actually is a striking looking limo.
I wonder how long this car will be, a good point of course!
Tim hi,
I wonder if you are confusing this 1952 car with a burgundyish colored hood, with a similar car with a black hood cover from Switzerland, which dates from 1950 ?
The Swiss car has indeed been around for a fair few years.
The 1952 car for sale in England, was barn stored in the 1960?s and was purchased in 2004 by the previous owner who set about a photographic body off ground up restoration. In 2011 further extensive work was carried out on the engine, brakes and rear axle by the current owner.
I was told recently that this car has unfortunately been broken up for its engine and gearbox. What a pity since this was a driveable car, and would not have taken a lot to get it up to road going standards.
The 2.6 litre engine and 4-speed DB box have been sold on for yet another DB2 owner.
I wonder, when will these people ever learn or stop their madness, aftwr 60 years the car should have been preserved ?
Interesting comments on this LG6, overall looks to be pretty original and taxed for road use on the continent.
In contrast to some of the other styles on the long chassis be it V12 or LG5, imho, this car looks very handsome, beauty is in the eye of the beholder of course. Being a limousine makes it less desirable than, say, a drophead or even a short chassis factory saloon and I think this is reflected in the estimate of 40-50k; but no doubt it will make more….
The bulkhead plate shows that it was supplied as a chassis and there are no details given of the coachbuilder by the auction house.
However, for a limousine it is quite elegant & not too bulky and the LG6 is an excellent model, being the ultimate development of the Meadows 6, heavily “breathed on” by WO.
I do agree though that it lacks the light touch of Frank Feeley who had a very good eye for car body styling.
This post does seem a long time ago.
All my four motors had been removed from the doors. Aside from removing all the old grease which had become a little hard, and then re-greasing, all of my four motors work fine. I was very fortunate, most people I have spoken to have told me that these motors are often problematic, even after paying for refurbishment.
I have also removed the chains and de-gunked and de-greased them as well and associated sprockets, then regreased.
When I start to check and rewire as needed, I will rewire all four motors, one can’t trust 50 year old wiring.
When I was buying my replacement handles, I was alerted to the fact that the door handles had subtle changes between the P5 Mk1 (1958-62) and the P5 Mk2 (1962-65) and P5 Mk3 and P5B, so purchased with care.
My car has P5 Mk1/2 handles, given it is a 1963 car, not really surprising. That was, what was available from the Rover parts bin at the time.
FYI the P5B was introduced in 1967, the interim model was the P5 Mk 3 (1965-67). The 5B does seem to be the source of many of the handles which are appearing on eBay and other places. So do take care when buying handles!
When I was sourcing replacement handles for my 3.0 dhc, I noted similar small changes in door handle and button styles on Rover’s throughout the 1950’s.
This car is now being offered at H & H in April.
See the following link:
Estimate: (?) 15,000 – 18,000
Reg Number: OPG 471
Chassis Number: LAG50/127
Engine Number: LB6A/50/160
Body Colour: Midnight Blue / Ivory
Trim Colour: Ivory / Blue
It will be interesing to see what this saloon makes, given the amount of time and considerable expense which has been spent over the years.
Ken good morning,
Would you mind letting me know how things progress.
I was going to go down the road of a twin circuit with my current brakes.
Simon
I fully agree with the thread comments.
I trust someone with some legal standing might drop a short note to the gentleman, before someone is suckered on.
Having been down to see the old girl, and poked around a fair bit, I believe that this is indeed a Lagonda made body on the middle length, 11 foot chassis. As to whether it is an early prototype de Ville or an LG6 body is very hard to say. The club do hold a fair few details on this car as you may doubt now know, its history is known from 1947, but not before.
If I am correct the build records do not exist for all the V12 cars. I think it is very easy to generalise about these magnificent cars, in terms of “set body styles and shapes”, radiator heights, and even the length of the boot or position of front lights. But a key point is, that the customer could really specify what ever he or she wanted.
I think the costs to restore this car would be considerable, partly because of the complexity of the engine and the fact that it will certainly have the original crankshaft and con rods, which it would be unwise to retain. It is a very high revving engine and the crank had a design weakness that often led to serious cracking at the flywheel end, while the Duralumin con rods will by now have lost much of their original tensile strength because of progressive changes that have been found to be intrinsic to this alloy. One can easily run up a bill for 50k GB pounds plus, just for parts for the engine alone …
The car is not a “standard” short or medium wheelbase saloon, which everyone wants. It is a de Ville limousine and whilst Frank Feeley designed some fabulous bodies for the 4.5 litre cars, this wasn’t one of them, being an early possibly prototype de Ville.
By chance, I have finally found the source of these door pins/pulls. A friend had a Humber Sceptre parked outside his house, and I went to see it…….
They were used on the Humber Sceptre Mk 1, made from 1961 – 1967 and the early Hillman Hunter which shares many parts with the car; the Ford Cortina Mk 1 made from 1962 – 1967, and maybe other 1960’s Fords.
On the Humber they are the same dimensions as on the Rapide, whilst on the Fords, they are 5 mm longer, so can be easily cut to size. The door pulls on the Fords are in black and also a silver finish plastic.
I picked up a good set of four, on eBay, see the following link:
SImon
Christian hi
I look forward to the results of all your hard work, no doubt, 126, will be happy to be updated if required…..
Kind regards and many thanks for posting this.
Simon
Christian – thanks for posting this.
A few small points were over-looked, in your otherwise excellent write up, which is very useful indeed.
1. Given that the clock on your car has not been used in 20 years plus, the pivots and plate pivot-holes will have dried out and there will be congealed oil and dust in them. I would recommend that you get yourself some clock oil and an oiler from “Cousins watch and clock spares”. To do this for all pivots; you will need to remove the dial and hands, so you can lube the pivots from both ends of the steel arbors. With clock oil, less is more….
2. Take very, very great care when handling the clock when it?s out of the case, as the balance wheel and hair spring are partially exposed and easily knocked. If you knock the hairspring out of parallel, you will not be able to true it, a watch/clock maker will be required.
[Tweezers and other fine tools are preferred for this work, using a very clean work, tool free surface, with a large sheet of white paper to work on].
3. This clock movement does not have a pendulum, it has a simple balance wheel arrangement. If you made a mark with a small amount of white tipex, when the clock is disconnected from 12 volts at the nominal 12 o’clock position, then reconnect to 12 volts, you will be able to quickly see how “gunged” up the pivots and pivot holes are by the amplitude of the “balance wheel”. This is connected to the internal pallets and escape wheel.
When this escapement, is set up properly, you will have a nice clean tick-tock sound. It should beat at around 150 bpm, when correctly set up again after changing polarity.
Do note that a mechanical clock is not self starting, either you set it in motion by hand or when the car starts, the movement will start up. So disconnecting the battery will stop the clock, and it will not always start up when re-connected.
4. if you have been able to get the clock to keep decent time, don’t expect quartz accuracy from any cheap mechanical car clock, then all is fine. If not, and having been down this road before, using a suitable capacitor and resistor will set things right. Then fine adjustment can be made via adjuster to front of clock, which will alter the position of curb pins with relation to the balance spring.
5. It?s not a bad idea to put an inline fuse in the power lead when refitting the clock back in the dash to protect all that hard work ? 250mA is ample.