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Hi,
For the price of a bush, then I would surely change them in this instance!Do a really 150% job on this restoration and it will be worth every cent in not only your future enjoyment but also if you ever decide to sell!
Best regards,
JulianAs above,
The engine mount silent blocks should be bolted in from underneath so changing them is relatively easy if need be.However! The alignment of your engine and gearbox must be absolutely spot on or your clutch will drag. If your mounting rubbers are not good then your engine will be forever moving and causing crunching selecting first and reverse. This is the first sign of mounting rubber failure / softness.
Regards,
JulianHi,
I will check and come back later today,Regards,
JulianHi Chris,
Sounds like the spring has either snapped or he has selected two gears at once which sometimes gives the same feeling.There is a big triangular plate on the rear top of the gearbox. Remove this plate WITH CAUTION as it is very heavily spring loaded as usual and can easily fly off and hit you hard!! the main spring is under this and you can check it’s condition.
Let me know the outcome.Julian
What does he ask for the complete car?
Julian
Good mod!
They work far better than the original coil and distributors!
Only a little tall and slightly unsightly.julian
Dear Igor,
Unless you have modern type steel connecting rods at least and prefferably a modern counterweighted steel crank also, then you would be EXTREMELY ill advised to go more than 3750 rpm on a regular basis!!
Your standard rods have a thickness smaller than your little finger at the small end and this added to a “mean” piston speed of over 3500 feet per minute, and a peak of over 5800!!, you are asking for your engine to do a very good impersonation of a hand grenade!I hope this elevates the need to re-jet your carburettors which must be working well for you to be able to get to 4000+ in the first place!
Regards,
JulianAh! seen it now, thanks! Wonder where the rest of the V12 is?
Julian
Just a little note to say we have just received another new batch of gear sets and to remind people that “if” rebuilding these boxes, remember to change ALL bearings at the same time, and I don’t just mean the roller and ball bearings, I also mean the bronze bearings on all of the main shaft and some lay shaft gears. these always show too much wear when we inspect them and this causes excess load on the double helical gears and hence your teeth falling off ;o) Generally the shafts are overly worn too, Therefore our sets come as a complete set “Including” all 4 shafts, input, output, Lay and Reverse. and all bearings and seals. Price eg, T8 sets are priced at 4800 Euros which is just under 4000 GB pounds, these are available for collection at either Bishop Grey in Aldermaston or Terry Formhalls Engineering in Southampton area.
Or we can drop them somewhere on our travels about the UK and Europe and if on our route it will be at no cost!Regards,
JulianRegards,
JulianHi Peter,
Yes, We can rebuild these with new gauges fitted into your old unit and all fitted with modern 12v electrics, all looks the same from the front but new from the back and works without the 6v resistor box fitted as standard, new senders etc included. Price about 1100 euros for the complete unit.Regards,
JulianHi,
Am I missing something here? What open boot and what V12 sump?
Would be nice to see this restored but at a good 250k to restore properly it would be a serious no no on a car worth about 130k perfectly restored at the moment, unless you just want it and are lucky enough that you don’t need to worry about cost. Shame!Julian
Hi Peter, that’s fine. I added the post in all model sections because I actually hadn’t seen this section until my last post can you believe! 😆
As long as everyone notices we will all be happy 😉
Julian
Send me a pic of your Rev counter and I will match you a Speedo ;o)
Julian
Hi Tim,
As for “Type” that one is easy, It is without a doubt a “High Chassis” “Type” but notice the speech marks, Just because it is of the earlier type does not mean Lagonda fitted it in that car type! They often did some funny things as we have all found over the years.The engine is though, the early type found in the high chassis cars and 14/60 with the early type block and milled out exhaust etc.
Regards,
JulianHi,
Indeed the firing order is 1-4-2-6-3-5
Timing should be a little different in so much as it should be 33 deg on the inlet (mag) side and 31 deg on the Ehaust (coil) side
this way the engine will run a lot smoother.
The engine will and should run up to about 2500 rpm under load on one ignition only, but after this you will feel a significant power loss. severe backfires after 3000. In general it should always be run on both sides at once.
Mixture in general should be a K or KT needle with jet flush. But you always need to play around a little.I do believe though that the car on display in the museum is actually an early “M” (memory only) and that this has a Rotax distributor fitted.
Feel free to phone here also.
Julian 0032 3354 0552