Forum Replies Created
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Hi Laurence,
Sorry for the late reply,Your theory could be correct, I had an original LG6 saloon in a while back that had been in one family all of it’s life and apparently never rebuilt etc and the internals did confirm that.
This engine was actually a creamy white but is the only engine I have ever seen in this colour that i could believe was not rebuilt at some point in it’s life. It could be that either you could specify a colour, or perhaps they had codes for different setups? LG6 or LG45 for instance when the models crossed over.
or V12 sanctions or carb setups etc? interesting.
I also know quite a few engines and gearboxes were changed under warrantee in their early life as is proved by the service cards of some cars.Regards,
JulesHi David,
That is a ToggleWidget, it is used for getting owners very worried when actually they have nothing to worry about 😆 😀
Nothing Lagonda that I have ever seen, and I recon I have seen most things Lagonda.
Jules
Nice set of forged pistons too.
Jules
Dear Laurence,
Others may want to contribute here but having stripped very many original V12 Engines for rebuild, several of them apparently never rebuilt before me and absolutely factory original, All of these engines that were almost certainly un-messed with were painted Black.Hope this helps,
Best regards,
JulesI hate bloody fuel injection! Carbs are “wonderfuel” things! Especialy simple SUs
Even easier when they are supplying Methanol in GPM 😀Hi Bill,
We can make these for you,
Do you just want the brass ring or the complete unit with gear?
Gears need to be paired though unfortunately.Jules
That’s funny David,
There is an old workshop saying that reads, “90% of carburettor problems are electrical” meaning Ignition.
Seems like two worlds oppose 😀Jules
psags wrote: Hi Colin
I do not have any blower Parts .
Given the engine has sufficient wear and corrosion issues in the block, I will have a better idea when we get to the x ray stage in a few weeks .
I now am inclined to have it rebuild in Australia to 2.4 L using the LMB Crank and Rods, use dry liners , Manufacture oversize pistons to suit this only the start !Thank you for the information regarding the Car.
I find the discrepancy between the Car ID plates Engine No and the actual No stamped on engine confusing . Especially that I am advised the engine was originally fitted. It just does not make sense without
the factory build sheet .
Peter SagliettiHi Peter,
If you go this route then please give me a call or email, this conversion is not straight forward and can be extremely challenging if you are not aware of the issues concerned.
However, once done correctly it is a fantastic improvement and you will love it forever!!
I know, I designed it in the first place 😀Regards,
JulesMorning,
Easy answer.
Cut off pipes, block ends with solder and drill a 1.5mm hole in each.
That gives more than enough oil for the chains and stops any chance of this happening again.
We do this on all our race engines and never ever have problems again.Best regards,
JulesHi Bill,
You still in need?
Regards,
JulianCopy of the email I just sent to Bary if anyone else is interested.
Open the floor of the car,
Remove the cardan shaft between engine and gearbox (leave gearbox in place but can be easier if the box is loose from its mountings)
Remove the clutch and flywheel. (on occasion you must remove the sump to get the flywheel out but a die grinder and a little finesse will usually suffice.)
Remove the old seal housing,
Then you will see the situation in the first pic.
We then measure the scroll diameter carefully and then turn up a one piece ally scroll housing that has an ID about 0.006? larger, this gives 0.003? all round which works a treat. See second pic.
HOWEVER. To get this accurately, you must make the bolt holes exactly on centre of the studs and then open them out about 2mm (or 0.080?) this makes the seal housing position ?adjustable?
Fit the seal housing over the crank scroll. Put three 0.003? feeler gauges around the outside to locate the housing centrally, lock it down with 4 nuts and then drill it to dowel it.
Remove it and refit with sealer and lock nuts etc.
Re-fit all and enjoy.Hope this helps,
Best regards,
JulesPS.
Pics on request by email if needed, the forum takes too much time to download and am a little busy for the moment. Will try if I can find time.Hi there,
The oil “seal” on the V12 is located behind the flywheel and is actually seperate to the sump and block.
You need to remove the flywheel which you can “sometimes” do without removing the sump.
The seal housing just un bolts, however there is actually no seal inside, it is only an oil scroll and you will need a crank out job if you want to modify to a real seal.
I have probably got pictures etc if you need them.Regards,
JulianHi there,
The oil “seal” on the V12 is located behind the flywheel and is actually seperate to the sump and block.
You need to remove the flywheel which you can “sometimes” do without removing the sump.
The seal housing just un bolts, however there is actually no seal inside, it is only an oil scroll and you will need a crank out job if you want to modify to a real seal.
I have probably got pictures etc if you need them.Regards,
JulianHi
Agree with the aboveNever ever seen a pushrod problem on a Meadows 4.5 that can be blamed on pushrod design.
Rockers seized, coil bind of the valve springs, collets hitting guides, pushrods hitting castings or head gasket etc will all caused pushrod issues, but pushrods themselves are immensely strong.
No other engine that I know uses anything even close.
Why ?improve?
And certainly not by drilling oil holes thus allowing to fill with oil.
On many American v8 race engines you actually close these holes.Hope this helps.
JulianHi
Sorry for the late response. Bit busyTry fitting the steering drop arm from a 2 litre
It?s a straight swap and because it?s shorter it significantly eases the steering effort.
Best of luckJulian