Forum Replies Created
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Hi Christopher,
SUs are a massive improvement over the Zeniths so glad you have them.
If you are running rich, just try a quarter turn in on the jets and see how it runs.
Regards,
JulianAB6 are correct but if sooting up then try 5s as long as you are sure your mixture is ok.
Do you have a Tripple Confuser or an SU ?We usually convert to 14mm plugs and un shroud the plugs inside the head. Works a lot beter.
Regards,
JulianCar is in fact owned by a club member in UK.
Regards,
JulianThanks Colin, kind words.
We did some testing a little while ago with regards to the fluctuating oil pressure at higher engine speeds and while not finding a complete cure we did come to some conclusions.
1. the std pump design was cusing excess cavitation at higher speeds, this we proved on our test rig.
2. The pipework and std routing of the oil before and after the pump was also causing some cavitation, this disapeared on the test bed without the pipework with the modern internals but came back with the pipework.
3. With the new pump it was better up to a steady 40 psi constant. but if let to go too high (60+) the cavitation came back and caused the pressure to drop back to 40 or 45 psi
4. The standard pressure relief valve is prone to open due to engine harmonics if set at about 40psi. We had this on several standard engines but not on the 2.4 or on the test rig. and tried many springs but all did it if set in this range!
5. Probably many other reasons we will find out in time ;o)Best regards,
JulianGenerally about 20mpg driven on std roads at normal modern day speeds.
up to 30 if driven hard up the mountains!Regards,
JulianHad a great time at the recent Continental Lagonda Club Rally in Germany!
Anyone got any nice photos to share?
Regards,
JulianIt’s been on a few times now and he wants a min of 55k,
Quite a good price actually if it’s in good running order and “IS” as nice as it looks.Julian
I like the “Ru bar” on the front 😀
Anyone know the chassis number?
Julian
The car in question is actually quite a nice car and condition wise very smart.
Engine recently rebuilt and by a reputable person so in theory the car is quite sweet.
The draw backs like mentioned are the slightly less atractive front screen and the poor way the hood folds down rather like a Mercedes 540, Otherwise a good buy if the right price can be paid.I would say 70k GB would be reasonable for this car in the current market.
Regards,
JulianHi Laurence
If you have problems getting any part what so ever just drop me a line as bellow and we can supply you almost anything. We have without doubt the largest stock of both new and used pre-war Lagonda parts in the universe, and expanding. And if on the rare occasion we cannot, we will certainly point you in the right direction to find whatever it is you may need.
info@LMBRacing.be
or
Julian@LMBRacing.be
or
+32 3354 0552Best regards,
julianHi Chris,
I will keep you up to date with progress!
Watch this space!Regards,
JulianHi,
Body is Freestone and Webb.Hopefully will have it running shortly.
Will do some photos when I get it out as it’s tucked away at the moment.
However interestingly it differs from any others I’ve seen in that it has a rear mounted spare wheel and it looks a lot more sporty in the process.Regards,
JulianHi Chris,
We are a little further now in so much as I have designed the crank etc and am sure we can see 2.8 litres,
We will need no major internal parts such as Crank Rods, Pistons or Camshafts, nor any chains or bearing backings etc. so all Main casings will be needed however it matters not what condition your bores are in or cylinder head condition etc as long as you don’t have cracks etc. However even if yours is cracked (we crack test everything we re-use) then we can repair it to 100% perfect condition by certified welding.
What do you have?Regards,
JulianAnother little update.
If anyone is having trouble changing gear with the standard T8 or G9 box we have just finished a conversion that will enable even the most “ham fisted” amongst us to change gear quite easily.
So no need to convert to Alvis boxes etc anymore! you can leave your gearbox looking absolutely standard to even the best expert. But it won’t be! 😉Talk to me for further info.
Regards,
JulianHi Collin, an interesting subject and the more one learns the more one realizes we know far less than we think!
It is actually a massive subject as you must take in so many variables that affect our engines efficiency.
For example, you are surprised to have to advance the engine in the lower rev range. Think thus.Our engine runs in a constant variable efficiency range.
Therefore a constantly changing CR must take effect.
The more unstable our efficiency (generally the worse designed older engines) the more we find our “effective” CR to be varied.
Therefore we need to Advance (in general) for our low efficiency and even lower than static CR in order to achieve maximum combustion pressure just past TDC.
As our efficiency gets toward its peak we use the least advance and as it passes this point more advance again.
Hence the Vacuum “advance” unit on 50s to 80s cars that is actually advancing ignition under heavy inlet vacuum (poor engine efficiency) and letting the ignition go back to its normal position when vacuum is released when you press the throttle to accelerate or drive at WOT positions. And then the mech advance adds more again as the engine speeds up.Heat is also a factor.
People mostly do not realize that Detonation is not necessarily caused by too much CR or spark advance etc., but usually by poorly designed combustion chambers, poor assembly of engines, wrong fuel air ratios etc. etc. Detonation is actually the result not of the fuel/air mixture being ignited on its own before the spark, but of the Spark ignited mixture burning and travelling across the combustion chamber at a speed not fast enough for all the fuel/air mixture to be ignited before the temperature rise in the un-ignited portion spontaneously explodes like a diesel. as you can imagine a flame only travels at a certain speed, and if the combustion chamber is badly designed for instance and the spark plug is at one side of a large chamber, the “flame front” needs to move over a large distance, all the time this is travelling the un-ignited gasses are increasing in temperature dramatically, if the flame front is not fast enough then BANG this portion of gasses go off well in advance of its correct time and not only do you get “effectively” a pre-ignition but you have two flame fronts hitting each other very hard and causing a massive rise in combustion pressure before TDC and with nowhere to go as the space in the combustion chamber above the piston is still shrinking. Bad for bearings!! etc.
Obviously a cold engine won’t have the same problem as a hot one!
An engine with a poorly designed cooling system may read cool on the gauge but yet be boiling in some areas! Again, bad for the detonation limit. V12 Lagondas for example with std designed engines are terrible for this. All this needs to be considered and about 500 other points like the difference in flame front speed between weak and rich mixtures etc. The list is endless.
When deciding what settings your engine needs, Never be surprised but always be prepared to adjust yourself and your understanding to your findings. Theory is great but practical “reality” is the ultimate teacher.
“If it is, it is! Even if you don’t sometimes think it should be!”Fun subject Collin and I hope people can understand what I?m trying to say and how deep this subject is.