Forum Replies Created
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Hi Laurence,
Yes it still holds true,
and 4 X D4s will easilly allow 260+ bhp and the D5s will easily allow 300 ‘IF’ your engine is up to it.
I have seen a few of my 5.9 Litre conversions giving a true 300bhp from 4 x D5s and pulling from idle upwards.
You will not be able to tell the difenence low down between a well setup set of D4s or D5s don’t worry a thing. Just make sure the rest of it is good also.Regards,
JulianHi Laurence,
If your car has 4 x D5s then it will work fine, the engine will work on D4s or D5s just as easily as SUs are mirraculous at addapting themselves and let’s face it, a 4.5 litre V12 can easily cope with 4 smallish carbs like that, just look at a 1960s 3 litre v12 Ferarri with 4 dual Webers. it has no more power tha a well tuned Lagonda and won’t rev any higher either in std form than a ‘Mell’ tuned V12
Rest easy, it will work a treat.I would suggest going to a well established rolling road with an experienced operator and someone equipped with needles etc and spend a day getting it working really well, it can be some of the wisest money you will ever spend.
Best regards,
JulianHi all,
Interesting subject these brake holes.
In the past it was common to make holes in the drums for lightening and for cooling, (supposedly)
However,
The holes obviously do lighten the drums but not as much as you would think. The actual effect of the weight differs with the distance the mass is away from the centre of rotation, so one drum weighing in at several pounds lighter than another can be a little misleading. Motorcycle drums are lightened often by drilling the finned area which is lightening in the best place…………. BUTMany years ago we had a problem with brakes overheating on a drum braked race car, (easily capable of 140mph+) under investigation we found that it showed most overheating at the points on the friction area closest to the lightening / cooling holes, we then under test discovered that the largest proportion of heat removed from the brake friction area is done so by heat dissipation into the actual drum material and then into the hub, These big holes actually ‘Reduced’ the cooling ability and were in fact causing the overheating. We made new drums which were heavier unfortunately but much to our joy, completely eliminated the brake fade and local overheating. Cooling ducts were improved on the backplates later and this again aided cooling to a point where we could even use a softer lining.
Ally drums are the way to go if you want the best of both worlds but stay away from some of the rubbish available as I have seen some shocking quality offered by supposedly reputable manufacturers.
Look out for conformity of thickness of the cast in iron liner, this needs to be dead centre if good wheel balance is to be achieved.
Look also for signs of welding on the cast in iron liner, this is absolutely unacceptable and positively dangerous on a highly stressed drum.
Also a set of drums should be identical, and this means absolutely identical, accept nothing else.Brakes and crash helmets rule 1.
“Fit the items that match the value of your head”Regards,
JulesHi,
Generally these pegs are light press fit,Although I never use the standard damper in any rebuild as they are absolutely rubbish at damping harmonics, (although better than nothing)
I would recommend a modern rubber bonded steel unit or better still, a ‘Fluidampr’
Regards,
JulianOne of my dreams is to restore a V12 saloon with one or two well hidden upgrades,
Especially now we are well aware of the areas that need refinement.
I think a V12 medium or long wheelbase saloon with a bit of care and inginuity could make an amazingly useable long distance touring machine that could teach a few moderns what class is all about.Fantastic cars!!
Julian
Great story!
And nice to hear the Lagonda was being used properly and driven with a little spirit 😀Nice to hear the story Awini, thanks,
Best regards,
JulianThere is a dumper truck that runs the exact same carbon ring AND cast iron holder
BUT I can’t remember which one sorry.
I will do some research and try to find the details and publish it. Will be too late for this post but may help in future.Regards,
JulianMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
What a little beauty!!
Car is rather nice too :o)
LG6 Rapide for sure, they make a fantastic pair.
JulianHi Colin,
We do the conversion the other way round to lighten the steering on the 4.5 for “old people” 😀 😀 Ooops 😮
So they for sure fit each other without problems.
Regards,
JulianHi Bob,
On the 4.5 litre engine the head / block face is “Dry” this means that there are no waterways within the head sealing faces, water only passes to the head via the aluminium transfer poorts on the exhaust side so bubbling must have been caused by something else.
Simply clean up, check the deck and head are flat, and if so, fit a new gasket and test.
Probably all you need.
Do an oil change at the same time though as you will probably get some crap into the oiul return holes so always best to be safe.Regards,
JulianHi John,
The 4.5 litre arm will also fit and this will also quicken up the steering as it is a little longer, so if you want a little more feel and better controll then fit the 4.5 arm, only drawback is slightly more effort needed but on a 2 litre it should be almost insignificant.
Regards,
JulianAs you say Colin,
Late and hard but it should ‘only just’ stop the shaft with your foot hard down on the boards and do nothing at any other time.If you have troubles you may need to change the spring? I often used the inner valve spring from an LG45 or something similar.
Regards,
JulianHi Chris,
I won’t get into the rights and wrongs here as I can see it clearly from both sides and both sides have their merits.To fit the Alvis box you need to make up a frame to hold it / adapt it to the original mounts.
Position the gearbox in roughly the correct place on wooden blocks etc, (the more accurate at this point the better) then using something like 50mm square tube 2.5mm wall, run a length down each side and a length across the back to pick up on the Alvis mounts, weld together and then figure out the simple brackets from this frame to the original gearbox mounts.
The rest is simply making a new adaptor for the front and rear flanges to mate to the fabric coupling and prop shaft respectively.
It’s a pretty simple job but the more care you take in alignment the better the gear shifts and lack of transmission vibrations.
A note here.
At this stage it is well worth converting to a modern clutch as well.
If you buy one that comes with a new flywheel also, it reduces the rotating weight to such a level that the engine feels and responds like you have given it a new lease of life!! Gear changes are transformed and even the Alvis box will thank you for this.
I think the club do a kit and I know Bishop Grey do one that works well.Good luck,
JulianPS.
My phone number is 0032 3353 3331, 8.30am to 7.30pm Monday through Saturday
Please phone any time if you need help or advice.
This goes for anyone on any mechanical subject.Hi,
Standard oil seal is felt you are absolutely correct.
You can easily convert to rubber lip seals,
I think the one I use is 3″ x 2 1/8″ x 0.5″ but you will really need to check as there are a few I have seen used by various people doing similar conversions.
Generally if a lip seal is fitted it should not leak if oil is full or over full.Good luck,
JulianHi,
Remove cylinder from car,
Place cylinder in a bench vice with a socket or similar for a rod, close vice jaws forcing piston to move inwards,
Repeat with cylinder turned the other way,
Keep repeating until pistons are quite loose,
Tap out gently.
Front cyls are 1 1/4″ dia and rears 1 1/8″ you can by seal kits easily if the bore is not bad.Past parts are a good bunch if not.
Regards,
Julian