bill

16 June 2017 at 07:48 #52405

Bill and Laurence thanks very much for the replies. Yes it is the original Berkshire motor. I replaced the cable about 5 years ago when the original broke on a journey in pouring rain from Dorset to Wales (2 hours or so moving the wipers by hand was no fun at all !). After replacing the cable with a new one the wipers seemed to work much better !!
I take your point that maybe the motor is running too fast and will check the voltage next.
Many thanks.

bill

15 June 2017 at 09:34 #52402

Thanks Bill for the comments. Yes, I have tried RainX before.
I understand your comments about an old motor and I must admit I am aware of this. On a journey in rain I often check the heat of the motor with my hand under the dashboard !!
However if I fitted a PWM and ran the wiper motor at 50% speed for most of the time surely this would mean that the motor would have a much easier time – as the pulses would mean that it was only working half as hard ?
I agree that you would be correct if, by slowing down the motor, I was therefore encouraged to leave the wiper on for longer periods. I dont think I would do this. At present the wipers seem to be quite fast for ordinary rain (I dont think the motor has a problem) . If I could generally slow the wipers by about 25% (and not leave them on longer than at present) then that would surely save some wear on the motor ?

bill

13 May 2017 at 08:20 #52383

Well done Adam ! Presumably this means you are now the current G9 expert to whom all problems can in future be referred !!

bill

10 April 2017 at 13:25 #52369

Sorry ! Must be a different type of construction to my wheel.

bill

8 April 2017 at 17:09 #52365

I didnt think that my steering wheel repair cost was very difficult or expensive (under ?100). See my post of 20/1/17. I think that it looks very good and original. I would have thought that you could even do this recovering yourself – if you have enough patience !

bill

3 April 2017 at 17:37 #52363

As you may have seen in the latest newsletter, David Hine has written further notes for the revised handbook dealing with rebuilding the G9 gearbox.

bill

14 March 2017 at 19:15 #52340

Ask Alan Brown. He got a batch of water pumps made some years ago (I have one) with modern seals etc. His supplier may be able to update yours.

bill

6 March 2017 at 18:03 #52336

Very sorry. Brain fade.
Try J12 !!!

bill

6 March 2017 at 09:12 #52332

I think you will find him under T12 in the register of members. He is a 2 litre owner.

bill

22 February 2017 at 12:29 #52327

Thank you Julian. I thought you probably meant a modern unit.
I agree that shutters are not great ! I have always used a manual conversion as I dont like the original thermo operation. I usually dont forget !!!
The manual operation is very useful when you come across a traffic jam or are about to attack a very steep hill or hills.

bill

21 February 2017 at 18:13 #52325

Thank you Julian very much for all that. Very nice to have it all recorded.
Interesting about not using a thermostat. I have never had any faith in the thermostatically operated shutters. They only seem to operate after the event when it is too late !. Did you mean this type of thermostat or dont put a modern one in the system ?

bill

17 February 2017 at 10:15 #52321

I have checked and there is in fact only 2mm clearance with the cross member at the widest point of the UJ on my car.
However I have original engine mountings and this affects it. I intend to replace these one day but it is a very difficult job – almost an engine out !
If you are absolutely certain that the gearbox is correctly aligned maybe you could raise the rear engine mountings fractionally and then realign the gearbox. This may give you enough clearance – after all the engine may not be level anyway !

bill

17 February 2017 at 09:04 #52319

Are you sure the gearbox is correctly lined up ?
What did you alter that could possibly have affected the position of the gearbox ?
How did you line the gearbox up ? Did you double check this before you put the shaft and fabric coupling on ? I found that it was also best to take the clutch off to make absolutely certain everything was in line.
Julian M. posted some help on the Forum some time ago about correctly lining everything up
I will check later and see how close my UJ is to the cross member on my car- in case this helps.

bill

8 February 2017 at 09:17 #52308

Bill, I dont know if you have misunderstood my post ? I meant that I believed that new 4 plate back plates for the larger type shock absorber were available. These would just be substituted for the original 2 stud hole back plates. The new shock absorbers (now with 4 bolt holes backs) would look exactly like the originals.

bill

6 February 2017 at 14:46 #52305

I have a feeling that I saw that someone was making a new back plate (with 4 stud holes) for the larger size Luvax s/abs.
Was it Brown ?