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Can you post some photos and also what age is the engine ?
The Lagonda type meadows engine was apparently used for marine and military pre war but there were apparently differences.Adam, according to my notes the domed washer should be facing away from the bearing – i.e. with the cup facing inwards. At least, that is how it was on my gearbox ! This is presumably to throw excessive oil away from the bearing.
Is the layshaft assembled correctly – or didnt you remove it ?I understand that the original way of covering the steering wheels involved a mould i.e. the wheel was covered with the chosen substance (celluloid ?) and then the wheel was put in a mould to “cure”.
I dont think that a mould is used nowadays by the steering wheel “restorers”.
I have a funny feeling that the modern “restoration process” for steering wheels is no different to the system I have used – this maybe the reason why Colin said that the “restorer” did not want to share details of the process with him !!
I maybe wrong of course so any other ideas from anyone else would be interesting !It was reducing the size of the photo in my computer that I couldnt work out ! I think I have done it now . See below (hopefully).
Just for the benefit of anyone else making up a new steering wheel. I have a very friendly painter nearby and I have just collected my “new” steering wheel from him after he has “recovered” it for me. 25+ coats of paint later I think it is very difficult to tell the finish from that of an original wheel. The number of coats has given a “depth” to the finish and I am very pleased with the result – and for just under ?100. He has also toned down the “shininess” which I think will also dull down a bit more with use.
Cannot work out how to attach a photo. Sorry !Well done Adam !
I am sure Blue Hymolar is fine or a very good quality silicone ?
If you dont have a magnet in the drain plug now would be a good time to fit one ?David, ring Alan Brown and see if he has anything. Not many people seem to have reinstated the chassis lubrication system so there should be lots of bits around !
Thanks everyone. You live and learn !! Now I will feel “pressurised” to fit restrictors in my system !
Yes, like David I too blanked off the sump outlet and have a separate reservoir. A certain amount of oil seems to end up on the floor…..David, are you sure that the “insert” is original ? I may be wrong, but I thought that all the restricting or metering of the flow along the pipes was done at the pump. Speaking from memory there are small adjusters under the pump to do this. I am not aware there were any other restrictors unless these were put in by someone afterwards i.e. non original. I would be interested to know the correct answer as I thought all adjustment of flow was done at the pump. I see that David Hine in his latestHandbook says….” there were 6 separate circuits and the oil flow could be adjusted to each circuit independently” (page 61).
David, are you sure that these are still not available as a modern fitting – although you might need to file off casting marks to make it look “original”. When I rebuilt my LG45 and reinstated the chassis lubrication system I was very surprised to find that virtually all the fitting were available “off the shelf” at my local hydraulic fitting supplier. I think that I only had to make up a couple of fittings for the flexible pipes to the front suspension. I know that modern fittings are not quite the same as the original ones but who will see them ?
For the benefit of others : – Adam, I have spoke to you but you should be ok to get the rear housing out. However, mine was very difficult. It needed a bit of heat on the aluminium housing and gentle prising with a knife edge tapped into the gap.
If you can face it, go further and inspect the bush hidden between the input shaft and the output shaft. If this does not get much lubrication it will, I think then cause the 2 shafts to “wobble” leading to possible breakage of the helical teeth.I dont know the 2 litre clutch but would this really be as difficult as you think ? Firstly check that the club does not have them – I believe that they do for the M45 mod ?
If the driven plate is straightforward try Precision Clutch Components (Wincanton) 01963 362484 who made up a driven plate for me (for another car) by fixing the centre of one clutch (metric size splines) to the friction bit of another (larger imperial o/d). Not very expensive either – under ?100 when I had it done.What an epic journey, David. Well done !
Good to know that the Lagonda seems to be running well.
Why do all the really nasty things – like your the clutch pedal problem – always happen in the most inconvenient places !Really good to know this Julian. Thank you.
Yes, I also used this on my M45 and is a known “mod” I think. No problem as far as I was concerned. No reason why it wouldnt it work on a 2 litre ?