Forum Replies Created
-
Not a great deal of help and a bit of a long shot. Ebay had parts of an LG45 engine for sale – a block and possibly a head (?) plus some other parts. They were listed separately. I don’t believe they found a buyer. However it was probably over a year ago and ebay’s completed listing search doesn’t go that far back. The parts were in France but unfortunately that’s all I can remember. Might jog someones memory who might know who the seller was. . . maybe they still have them. . . .
It is clad in tulipwood hence the colour. More photos:
http://www.conceptcarz.com/vehicle/default.aspx?carID=12699&eventID=190What bits are you missing? Wheel discs and bits often come up on ebay and rarely sell. Often for Bentleys but you may find what you want. Also Fiennes sell spokes and other parts:
http://www.fiennes.co.uk/Parts/Catalogue/O/OBThere are on-line image resizers. A Google search will find plenty. Never tried one but I guess they do the job.
Mine are satin black but I dare say you could have ordered them a different finish if you wished.
My P100s had a fixed reflector on the left one, but I managed to acquire a dipping reflector and a solenoid turned up on ebay. So just a case of swapping the reflectors and altering the wiring.
DavidHi Laurence,
I think making is the best option. I have some original coach bolts and weights to match. The bases and covers can be made a suitable size to cover the weights.
David
I have just had a look at Fiennes Restoration website and they do list them in their parts section and yes Bentley and R-R are different items. There is a photo of one but not the other.
DavidHi Laurence,
See these links. Rolls-Royce but I imagine wheel weights were standard items.
http://www.boddice.co.uk/bpic2533.html
http://www.boddice.co.uk/bpic2534.htmlI did find a R-R parts supplier who has some on their website but they don’t seem to be able to find them or have already sold them and forgotten which is a pity.
David
Mine are Fort Dunlop too, 1937. The build sheet is filled in by hand so I assume there was a choice. There must have been a default tyre if the customer didn’t have a preference. One of Arnold Davey’s excellent books may have the answer.
Photocopy build sheets available from Maurice Leo’s son I believe.Hi Bill,
This is something that is missing on my car too. Do you have any photos?
David
Mark,
I had been assuming your plan was to remove just the engine mounts with the rubber bushes. I don’t think removing the brackets to the chassis makes it any easier. The slotted nuts for the front chassis brackets are on the outside of the chassis so not too hard to get off, however the brackets are trapped there as you cannot get them out without raising the engine.
With the rear brackets, as you point out, they hold the big wing mounting boxes on the outside of the chassis. You may have noticed there are thick aluminium spacers between the wing box and the chassis. Unfortunately these are not fixed with regular bolts. There is a slotted nut on both ends. What you can’t see is that they are double ended bolts (ie like a stud with a hex head in the middle). The hex bit is recessed in the aluminium spacer. You either have to remove the whole wing box to get a spanner on it (And that means the wing too as the bolt is trapped there unless you can pull the wing box outwards and you can’t do that with the wing in place.) or try to undo the inner slotted nuts and hope the bolt doesn’t rotate. You could put a spanner on the other slotted nut inside the wing box but you will not get the bolt right out without removing the wing box. There is also a risk that the nut on the wrong end will undo, then you’re stuck (there isn’t enough bolt to get a lock nut on to hold it).
If you do manage to get them out and replace the rubber mounting bit you can’t tighten the bolts as you need the adjustment provided by the slotted holes to get the engine lined up. So you’re still faced with getting split pins in with the engine in place – with the added problem of getting the split pin holes lined up.
I would suggest removing the engine completely and then make up a jig that has the main bolts attached that is referenced to the chassis. Remove the jig. Replace the necessary parts. Then replace the jig and tighten the nuts plus put in the split pins. When you put the engine back in the main bolts should, hopefully, line up and push back in. Then align gearbox.David
Hi Mark,
Not going to be easy. As Bill says you will need to realign the gearbox. The holes in the brackets are slotted so you will need to align side to side as well as up and down. Take the big bolts out first, that’s the easy part. If you try to raise the engine (with bits mentioned detached) it will foul at the front (starter handle dog will hit the underside of the cross bar that supports the radiator, at least it does on my car). If it’s like my car the slotted nuts on the rear mounts are on the bottom so can be removed, assuming you can get a spanner on the bolt heads. The front ones have the slotted nut at the top. That is going to be very difficult to get the split pins out and undo the nuts.
If you do try raising the engine and supporting it from below put a heafty plank of timber right along the length of the sump and plenty of support.Good luck
If I remember correctly to get the horn boss off you need to remove the levers at the bottom end of the column (in the bit that sticks out beyond the steering box), disconnect the wires, and then pull the whole lot up through the column from the steering wheel end. Hope that helps. David
David Ayre is http://davidayre.com/