31 July 2015 at 09:10 #51364
I need to overhaul the bishop cam steering box, in due course. The last time I had it off the car I left the steering wheel on as I couldn’t see how to remove the horn boss with the a/r and throttle levers. I want to be better prepared this time! It has also been in my mind to remake the throttle lever connections as they were removed in the past. If anyone has a drawing or photos and dimension detail, that would be excellent. All advice gratefully received. AdamDavidLG451 August 2015 at 09:13 #51366
If I remember correctly to get the horn boss off you need to remove the levers at the bottom end of the column (in the bit that sticks out beyond the steering box), disconnect the wires, and then pull the whole lot up through the column from the steering wheel end. Hope that helps. DavidColin M341 August 2015 at 11:26 #51368
You might have to slacken the gland nut where the tube passes through the steering box. This locks the tube on place and once released, the tube should pull (or jerk) out.
Colin1 August 2015 at 13:24 #51369
I haven’t looked at it for a while.
The controls are attached to levers at the base of the column and I presume these have to come out from the bottom, assuming it is a continuous tube through the box. Perhaps I need to get to the point of doing the job first, then I will have a better understanding. Not damaging the bakerlite is the all important goal!Colin M341 August 2015 at 16:13 #51370
I disposed of my LG45 about 15 yeas ago so can’t remember the exact details but yes all the levers should come off the unit at the bottom of the shaft. One the gland nut is free to tube should move.
Colin4 August 2015 at 12:43 #51377
I will have a poke and a push come winter. All will be revealed!
AdamStephen Matthews4 August 2015 at 17:09 #51378
Just to confirm the levers will slide off the bottom of the tube, release the gland nut the steering boss and control tubes can then be withdrawn from the top. The tubes will be greasy and steering box oil will dribble from the box so be prepared. On re-assembly the pre-tension on the control levers is pretty critical to get free movement and sufficient secure engagement in the the steering boss notches. Suggest a couple of photo’s and/or sketches before starting and I personally mark the levers and their location on the tube with a marker pen before I start – it just makes life easier.29 September 2015 at 17:32 #51466
Thanks Stephen, Sounds like you have been here before! Very much appreciated. Sorry for the delay in replying, Lagonda has been on the back burner through the summer.Bill LG4529 September 2015 at 19:00 #51469
Couldn’t agree more about taking photos….I have recently rebuilt my steering column. I took photos but ended wishing I had taken more!
A couple of tips:
– When you split the cast aluminium housing apart to gain access to the gland nut you have to remove the four 5/16 BSF bolts at the bottom of the steering box. Suggest you remove two, take half the housing away and then refit the bolts with extra washers before removing the other half so that the bottom bearing retaining plate does not come loose until you have removed the steering column from the car and removed the drop arm from the rocker shaft. The drop arm is on a tapered spline and may be difficult to get off and you might cause damage to the rest of the box if the bottom plate is loose.
– The top and bottom bearings are available from the Club but I found the balls to be a loose fit in the bearing cage on the Club replacements and they need to be greased up to prevent the balls falling out when you reassemble.
– The cork seal on the rocker shaft is a source of leakage and can be replaced with a modern lip seal which I obtained from BRT bearings (BRTS11215025). NB: this fits the shaft ok but is a little bit loose in the housing so needs a smear of silicon sealant or Loctite bearing fit around the outside when fitting into the housing.
– I also managed to get a replacement bearing for the top of the steering column from BRT for only a few pounds. Don’t be tempted to order the sealed for life version of the column bearing as this is 1/2 inch deep instead of 3/8 and does not fit.
– Whilst apart you might want to take the opportunity to clean up the horn push contacts and check the condition of the spring under the horn button
Hope the above helps
Bill16 October 2015 at 10:35 #51515
Those tips may well save me a great deal of time. It is so refreshing not to have to keep reinventing the wheel!
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.