DavidLG45

25 October 2017 at 13:34 #52524

Further to my powder coating comments, I had a part powder coated a few years ago that had a riveted on piece. There was paint in the overlap which melted and ran out ruining the finish.
If you wanted to powder coat you would really need to remove the riveted on items so the shot blasting could clean behind. The shackle castings are a very tight fit in the front and rear of the chassis and you will not get them back in place if there is anything more than the thinnest of coating where they fit.
Personally I would remove the riveted on items, shot blast, then a thin primer put on after having done any repairs. I would then re-rivet the removed items and bolt the frame back together (making sure any brackets that were held by the main bolts were back on). Then paint the whole chassis as a unit. . . .

David

DavidLG45

25 October 2017 at 09:53 #52522

LG45s have a riveted plate on the inside where the steering box bolts. . . .

Powder coating – you will end up with the unwanted thickness of the powder coating where the crossbars bolt on unless you mask those areas or sand it off after. You also run the risk of crap leaching out from behind where the shackle mountings are riveted on from the heat needed and spoiling the finish.

DavidLG45

17 October 2017 at 16:55 #52511

Hi Steve,
Are you a member of the Lagonda Club?
They can supply a 2 litre engine manual if that is what you need.

DavidLG45

28 September 2017 at 08:06 #52489

I too went to the preview. The body is not the problem if it’s going to be discarded. It will be a shame – the main roof panel could probably be saved as it only had a shallow dent in the top. It appeared to have doors on only one side and they didn’t look too bad. There was so much stuff inside that you couldn’t see if the remains of the other two doors were there.The headlights were surprisingly good and the radiator and shell reasonable. The handbrake and gear lever were heavily rusted and probably scrap.
The concern is the chassis. The top part of the side rails where they could be seen looked OK, but the cross tubes upper face not so good. I have seen photos of the underside of the chassis and running gear and it looks bad – taken some years ago so must be worse now. The rear springs appear to have collapsed, possibly when they moved the car as they weren’t collapsed in the photos. Springs are replaceable but it suggests the rest is weak too. An inspection of the underside would have been essential before bidding. Not an easy task as the tyres were flat as well as the rear having collapsed so it was close to the floor. Also other lots were close particularily on the drivers side making a look underneath difficult if not impossible. I think I would have wanted to have seen the car on a hoist before parting with my money.
I hope the buyer isn’t about to have a nasty shock.

DavidLG45

27 September 2017 at 17:35 #52485

Sold for ?30,000 plus 10% buyers premium.

DavidLG45

18 September 2017 at 08:55 #52478

Hi Mike,

You get the gaiters made to measure from Wefco
http://www.wefco-gaiters.com/
Download their form and fill in the details.

David

Just realised you probably mean steering gaiters (the above link is for leaf spring gaiters). Think you can get the steering gaiters from the club.

DavidLG45

11 August 2017 at 06:29 #52453

I have dug out some photos of this car sent to me 4 or 5 years or more ago. I thought it was possibly the same car and it is. It was in a bad state then so no doubt worse now.
The description on the back confirms it has an M45 engine. It also has an altered boot area (extended c1960). Built Autumn 1935 but not registered till 1937 for some reason.
David

DavidLG45

2 August 2017 at 09:52 #52434

Here’s a link. Sixth lot down (a bit further down now as new lots are added above).

Must be earlier than the date stated (1938) if it’s an early car. A project that looks like it’s been stored outside under a tarpaulin.

David

DavidLG45

17 March 2017 at 18:59 #52350

Hi Mark,

Toughened glass I believe. I have one door glass that I would think is the original that is shaped quite well and the other laminated and not well shaped. I plan to replace both sometime as I have managed to crack the good one.
I suggest you remove the whole door first either by unscrewing the hinges or knocking the pins out while supporting the door (very heavy!). If you remove the capping on the top face of the door and up the front of the quarterlight this will expose the screws holding the wood trim that faces inwards. Remove the door lock chrome bits plus the winding handle (can’t recall how though – a pin perhaps to be knocked out). The inner trim panel can then be levered carefully off. Remove the door lock. Then remove the inner timber – a wide piece (7 or 8 inches) across the top and a narrower vertical piece, these need to be removed as a unit as the winder mechanism is fixed to both bits. Quarter light fixings can then be seen.
This is from memory but I do have photos of the door apart if that would help.

David

DavidLG45

5 February 2017 at 15:04 #52302

Hi Bill,

Try these people http://www.stevsonmotors.co.uk
They will overhaul them if you can find any. Hard to find but Stevson Motors may be able to suggest where to look – autojumbles? or keep looking on ebay, you never know. . . .
There are at least two types, the ones you want are type ALCR which have the connection point to link up to the spill valve on the bulkhead which hopefully you still have? There is also type ALC (?) which are the same but with no connection for the spill valve.
Good luck.

DavidLG45

17 January 2017 at 11:57 #52274

Hi David,

I guess many hard to find parts are lurking at the backs of garages or thrown away.

Can one assume if there are no markings Lagonda used the same size drip plug throughout? Not a great deal of difference in the size of the biggest and smallest in the Boddice list.

Wouldn’t the thread be BSP as it’s a pipe fitting?

David

DavidLG45

17 January 2017 at 07:57 #52272

A bit more information – all relating to R-R. Surely these were bought in items at the time so likely to be the same source for Lagonda?

http://www.fiennes.co.uk/Parts/Catalogue/A/AE

A range of different ones. Presumably the S1/ZE1 etc is the size of the hole? See table (copied from the Bodice article):

Pin # Diameter Bijur part #

00 .0501 A1475-00
0 .0497 A1475-0
1 .0490 A1475-1
2 .0480 A1475-2
3 .0468 A1475-3
4 .0448 A1475-4

Overhauling link:

http://www.boddice.co.uk/bmai101.htm#Drip

Is there any reference number on your broken one, David?
Where was the one you broke feeding oil to?

David

DavidLG45

15 January 2017 at 20:38 #52268

Hi Bill,
There may be 6 feeds from the pump but each feed supplies more than one lubrication point. I am no expert in such things, but wouldn’t all or at least most of the oil tend to exit at the first lubrication point if there was no restrictor at the exit point to prevent it?
David

DavidLG45

15 January 2017 at 18:52 #52265

Hi David,

I think you might be referring to the drip plug that controls the amount of oil?
Have a look at this link
There was an article in the club magazine a few years ago on overhauling them. If I remember correctly they have different ratings as to how much they let through.

Hope that helps.

David

DavidLG45

15 December 2016 at 08:40 #52211

Sounds interesting. Any photos you could post on the forum?