DavidLG45

2 June 2015 at 16:12 #51285

Hi Jim,

Look on ebay, they come up there occasionally.

DavidLG45

30 May 2015 at 07:15 #51281

David,

Tyre pressure. According to the Club 4.5 litre handbook reprint, 35psi front and back. Doesn’t quote for different body types. Hope that helps.

DavidLG45

26 May 2015 at 07:25 #51278

Hi David,

Many thanks for taking the photos.Photo 3 shows it clearly. It does seem to be fixed with a plastic tie to the gaiter strap?
On my car the pipes were attached by brackets fixed to the spring guide bolts. A couple of photos attached – one from the manual and another car being dismantled – not my car buy mine was the same. So it does seem likely this was how the pipes were attached. Perhaps the gaiter was in separate pieces and didn’t cover the guides?

Bill, if you mean the centre U bolts then no, they don’t. The bolts I refer to are the guide clip bolts. See pix.

Attached files

DavidLG45

21 May 2015 at 11:39 #51273

Hi Bill,

Thanks for your input. I found the same info that you quoted relating to heat treatment etc. If I did need to replace the parts I think cutting from solid would be the best option and maybe making the areas round the clevis pin holes a bit more chunky. Followed by some expert heat treatment etc. Casting seems to be out.

I take your point about lever 3 pulling unevenly and it would be better if the holes were equal distance but in fact it won’t pull unevenly as the lever pivots from higher up and will just shift to the side to compensate. See attached diagram.

David

Attached files

DavidLG45

21 May 2015 at 10:05 #51271

Thanks Bill. That doesn’t sound too difficult.

DavidLG45

20 May 2015 at 14:03 #51269

Thanks Bill for your suggestion. As you say the first two wouldn’t be hard to cut from solid. The other two would need a fairly big chunk of steel – the bottom bar in the third lever is foreshortened in the photo and in reality is about 2.25 inches long and would be a lot to cut away. I suppose you could turn the main tube on a lathe once the bulk of the metal was removed, and then bore the long hole. Third one would also need a large block. I’m sure it could be done, but time consuming.

What did you use to cut the bulk of the unwanted steel away?

David

DavidLG45

20 May 2015 at 07:31 #51267

Many thanks for all the comments.

In the end I spoke to LMB in Belgium. I felt as a Lagonda specialist they’d do a good job. They are now done and I await their return.

I will post some pix when I have them back.

David

DavidLG45

7 May 2015 at 13:34 #51252

Indeed they’re not in a straight line. I can’t see that it really matters the unequalness or am I missing something? Probably just a not very well made part?

Is getting the holes welded by a specialist and re-drilled a really bad idea ???

David

DavidLG45

7 May 2015 at 09:07 #51249

Thanks for the replies.

Machining from solid has been suggested to me. The two on the left could easily be one piece. Not sure I like the idea of having the other 2 welded in sections. I am not an engineer but I’m not convinced I want to rely on welds. . . .

Would casting be hideously expensive? I could make suitable patterns.

I have noticed that the holes in the short arms of the third lever in the earlier photo are not equally spaced either side of the pivot point (see new photo). This lever goes between the front axle in line with the brake pedal (ie right hand side). I can’t think of a reason for this? The inequality will be evened out by the fact that it’s floating, but why unequal in the first place? A bad casting perhaps? The holes have been drilled out by the previously mentioned “restorer” but never could have been equal.

David

Attached files

DavidLG45

5 May 2015 at 18:36 #51242

Hi Bill,

Very useful and comprehensive.

I very much doubt if they have been skimmed already. I will do some of the checks you mentioned and go from there.

Many thanks.

DavidLG45

5 May 2015 at 16:24 #51240

Apparently EN8 steel would be a suitable equivalent in the UK.
So that’s what I will get.

Thanks once again for the assistance.

David

DavidLG45

5 May 2015 at 09:23 #51239

Hi Alec and Bill,

Many thanks for your help. I will see what I can find. I am not in a particular hurry but cutting down off the shelf rods is an option that hadn’t occurred to me. The longest I need is 1s 44 7/8th inch. But I would need that amount without a thread.

David

DavidLG45

4 May 2015 at 10:44 #51235

Hi Alec,

Thanks that’d be very helpful. I’m in the UK so would need to find the UK equivalent grade. Imperial sizes are not used a lot these days but can try and find 5/16. Could possibly use 8mm – at least it’s slightly bigger and not smaller.

David

DavidLG45

1 May 2015 at 07:46 #51230

Hi David,

I should have the magazines mentioned. I will look them out over the weekend.

David

DavidLG45

28 April 2015 at 14:18 #51223

Hi David

Wedges change the castor angle and are sold by the club*. If you have had the leaf springs re-tempered you may well need to adjust the castor angle. There are a couple of threads on this forum. Search for axle wedges and castor angle. (* I think I am mistaken. You can get them from LMB Racing in Belgium though).

There are also lead weights in the curly end bits of the front bumper. Not sure what the theory is for having those – perhaps someone can enlighten us?