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I still can’t find a source for original lock pulls, surely they’re not unique to the Rapide? I will look at getting some made, ideally I’d like them black though chromed could look quite good! I will let you know how I get on…
Hi Guy, that price doesn’t sound bad for a fitted system, I originally budgeted that for an unfitted system. The only reason I started to look around is because I found the suppliers weren’t always the manufacturers, with my Rapide fitting is not an option as it’s not drivable.
Over the weekend I was under the rear of the car quite a bit and found the three hanging / mounting points; the first is by the rear passenger footwell, the second is just behind the de dion and the third above the rear valance – one per box.
It is very lovely! What do you think about the price?
I’m keeping the cast iron manifolds; so new downpipes onwards. Two details I would like to keep are the small triangle flanges which reinforce the split box and the 45 degree endpipes – so it looks original. I will let you know what they are like and how the cost works out…
I like the look of Evans Cool 180 – I think I’ll use that too! I’m taking the old exhaust over to Bell this afternoon. It looks fairly straight forwards to remanuafcture, the bends are separate sections etc. David, would I be right in thinking the whole system hangs from one bracket under the rear seat?
This is the car which was at Beaulieu, see this thread;
Cars (and buildings) are highly attractive when they are in this state – the sense of past and potential for the future!
I think Hardy Spicer knew their stuff, so graphite grease it is. I had to replace one of the Hardy Spicer UJ’s, both outer ones have now been replaced. The splines don’t appear to have any play (though both shafts have been replaced) – the UJ’s may have taken the peak loading and saved the splines?
Graphite grease is recommended for splined applications, I am wondering about Moly Grease too…
Hi Simon, good find. There’s something very nice about the graphics, the style of writing, the optimism of British industry at that time – great!
I would really like to avoid overheating issues, now is the time to think about it!
The TR4 has a fan connected directly to the crank pulley, so in a traffic jam it does very little to cool and at high speed (when it’s not needed so much) it cooling too much – simular to the Rapide.
At low speed the loss of bhp due to the mechanical fan is not great, at high speed the loss is greater as the fan is taking more power away for obvious reasons – it is generally thought with the TR4’s 2.2l engine to be 10 bhp worst case.
So if you remove the mechanical fan and fit an electric fan you loose that inefficiency. The electric fan only comes on when needed so the rest of the time you gain the power you would have lost of the mechnical fan.
Thanks David, that’s helpful – I had wondered if the fan would be on all the time. I have a re-cored radiator so I’m hoping that will help too.
Thanks Simon. On my TR4 this is quite a standard modification upping the power by about 10bhp. I don’t really want to add a secondary fan as to my mind this will futher reduce the air flow, also I would quite like a neat solution.
The problem with Kenlowe is the fan is very chunky and thermostat is inserted down the side of the rad pipe, the Revotec fan is much better looking and has an integral inline thermostat.
Okay, not a mystery – I’m just feeling smug that I found the source of these straps!
That sounds great, you must be very happy. It’s a big job – I think you had the best person available to do the work as well!
I’m progressing well with mine – I’m slightly stuck at removing the trailing arms from the transverse torsion bars, this involves a blow torch, a puller, a club hammer etc etc…fun :crazy:
Hi, yes easy for me when I spent a day removing it all!
I think those must be the bushes which connect the trailing arms to the de Dion tube – there are four in total and they are very simular to the front upper wishbone bushes used in DB5’s. They would would need to be reamed out in order to make them fit on the bolt (which connects the trailing arm to the de Dion tube), the alternative is to use Polybushes and ream them – that may be what yours now has…