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Thanks Ray, I think the slats under the bonnet are meant to keep the air flowing even with the seal in place but unleaded fuel does add an extra element to be considered.
Thank you, all going well I hope to get it on the road just after Christmas. I think that at the end of this my greatest triumph will have been to get all the interior lights working properly. If you ever have to tinker with them you’ll understand why!
Lovely tyres – shame I bought some new ones the day before I knew you were selling yours!
Just to let you know, I started and drove 108 this weekend and everything seems to work very well. I was initially worried that the car was sitting too high but it has now settled with 6″ clearance, which is in line with the original spec. I think the suspension can get sloppy over time allowing it to sit low and be a bit bouncy – it’s now pretty tight. Photos will follow…at some point!
I’ve been working on a Rapide wiring diagram by updating a DB4 diagram in line with what I have found on my Rapide. Interestingly the DB4 diagram refers to ‘saloon’ for the rear interior lights. The wiring is approximately the same for the DB4 and Rapide but the Rapide has a different fuse arrangement plus a few other minor differences. Colours generally do not match what is shown on the diagram but they may have varied anyhow…
Hi Simon, certainly have – this is one of two he has for sale. Unfortunately he can’t help with the missing bits – this motor was used for lowering the rear quarter windows on a RR Silver Wraith…or similar. I bet your LR has it’s original aerial!
I’ve found the original Lucas motor which powered the electric aerial on my car; it’s the same motor used by RR for various things including aerials (see image below). I think the chances of me finding a complete unit are almost zero. I could buy a few RR aerials and motors and try and adapt something but this would cost a lot and may not end up with a working aerial.
So I guess this is why modern aerials are installed – such a shame someone threw away the original – it was probably repairable.
Below is a photo of the hole which clearly housed the aerial motor body. The tube would have to be around 12″ long and the body 3 1/2″ diameter. Apart from RR, the only cars which seem to use a similar aerial are American – so possibly it’s an imported item? In the photo you can also see the Hirschmann aerial (and many wires)- this is commonly fitted to classic Astons. It’s a very good product, but bulky and I don’t want to adapt it or the lower dash panel to make it fit.
…what I’ve found out this evening is that 7.10×15 is 7.10 inches (7 1/4″) from the outer face of the side wall to other outer face and 15 inch diameter rim. The depth of the tyre is not given but I measured it as 6 inches. So that equates in modern size to 180 / 85 / 15…which I don’t think exists. My spare is 8.15×15, which is 205/75/15…which does exist – 75 is 75% of 205mm – around 150mm.
I still can’t work out what tyres I should be fitting on my original steel wheels – I’ve come across two possibilities but both are whitewall… Anybody found any answers to this one?
Yes I agree, the other really impressive tradesman was the windscreen installer, he’s been doing the same thing since the 60’s and what a job that was – 4 hours of pushing pulling and walloping!
Sorry not to update the photo of the master cylinder mechanism as I said I would… Hopefully getting my Girling servos back from being rebuilt tomorrow, then once installed my brakes should be literally as good as new.
It would have been polite to ask…you could mention it to them. Despite that it’s quite a compliment and good advertising. A friend of mine pointed out this advert via Facebook, it has over 1000 likes and 150 shares + lots of good comments…I’ve lost you haven’t I!
Here’s a link to an ad with lots of good photos and a good price…
They’ve lifted the description directly from the website – but have at least credited it…and said thank you!
Hi Ray, you know your stuff! I will get a close up pic soon…
Thanks Ray, I think I know the master cylinders you mean – with threaded rods. What happens if one side requires more pressure than the other – such as the rear (as it has a longer run of pipe)? If the rods are locked to the yolk won’t it bias one side etc?