Forum Replies Created
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I think this is an old discussion. In general a rebodied car can mean a lot: copy of the original body because it was beyond repair, it can mean copy of an original body correct for the time and model of car and than going down the scale to any boy racer. Copy can mean exact copy so that you can not see the difference even in the slightest detail or anything not as good.
The original car with its original body and a nice history file with famous people or a win in Le Mans…is the dream.
Rebodied in terms of cutting away the roof is further down on the scale. But it depends too on how well it was done.
Can you spot the difference? Rake of the windscreen, posts and top end of the windscreen, the hood folded down is often a big pile compared to the original that folds nicer. Hood up, how does it compare to an original one, landau bars? All the sections where the saloon roof has been cut away, how is that finished?
I personally would rather buy a true saloon than one converted to a drophead if I can see the difference. Also as a moral position to stop cutting saloons. But of course a nice conversion at a much lower price than the real thing can be tempting..
Peter,
Here is a photo of my V12 De Ville windscreen and rubber. Looks similar to your car. I can not cut a piece off for you (it is a bit old but still tight) http://www.coh-baines.co.uk have a huge selection but there should be many other (local) suppliers
Also I added a foto showing the rear window (vent window? quarterlight?). Here I exchanged the rubber and found a grey one (fits to the color of my car) with very similar profile like you are showing but much thinner and finer so it is easy to compress. Supplier was Angst & Pfister in Switzerland part no DT10 2508 9034, Dimensions 10.5×6.5 mm overall.
the DB Lagonda, mainly in parts, seems to be the “in” car on ebay at the moment.
comment on the block: when you look at the last image (block, top view) it looks like the block has the standard cracks between cylinders 2-3 and 4-5
Laurence has sent me this photo of his V12 DHC, which is a late one (1940) but with works body too. So there is a second correct version for late cars.
Simon, difficult to say what is expensive or not and very much depends on what you want to do:
the 2.6 selling for 17k with may be a perfect engine: if the engine is good it is worth it allone this price.
The LG 45 saloon: if you want to have a perfect car and you love the work then restoring from such a base may make sense otherwise it is much cheaper to buy a car that can be driven for double the price. But then you have to live with faults which if you want to correct them would let you end up in a total restoration..This is correct.
Mounting of the front ones is difficult. I recommend to test them under load with an external hand lever oil gun before mounting. Are they tight on the shaft, at the top and at the bottom? I had to remove mine several times before they were tight. If I remember right, you can srew a ring inside tighter or loosen it that presses the shaft seal out. If tightened to much they won’t retract.
On the image you see the oil gun and pressure gauge I used. Pressure lifting the car will be around 40bar
Hi All,
as you see I started to crate new subforums (for the DB Rapide and V8 section so far because there is much activity at the moment). By the way you see if only two are working on their cars and using the forum for discussion it creates a huge knowledge base ! Where are more prewar Lagonda blogers?
I also started to move posts in the new subforums when it was clear where they belong to. There are some where I am not sure where to put or whether to create more subforums or to leave them where they are.
The more specific you are with creating new topics the clearer it will be to find something later. If you think your new topic does not fit to any subforum, you can still put it under “Engine” or “Other” directly. Again: please avoid to add your question to the last discussed topic if it does not fit. Better create a new topic.
Let me know how you like the new subforums
Simon,
I am not member of the AMOC, as David says “Full access to all areas is only available to AMOC members”. I am only registered to the AMOC forum. There I can not see what you seem to see. Can you email me some screenprints?
Tim,
you are talking about amoc.org, I assume. I did not find these child boards, I can only find the division e.g. Model Information / David Brown Feltham but no further subdivision/child. What am I missing?
I measured on 2 different 3ltr DHC and found 14.8-15.0mm on both cars. This is about 0.586 inches. The little span is due to more or less paint or dirt on the wire. I assume there was only one size and difference is tolerance, dirt, sand blasting..
Thank you! It is your contributions which are most important.
I will introduce more categories soon to make it easier to find information
Simon,
this is a good point: it would be very helpful if everybody coming up with a new topic would not add it to a long discussion list (e.g. “Rapide restoration” but start a new topic each time. Otherwise everything about Rapide restoration is in that long queue. If there are many little topics it will be possible in the future to rearrange them. For example there could be more forums (fora) than just Engine, Other, For Sale, Wanted.
there is also a seach function (“Search” the reading glass symbol)
Gentlemen,
may I suggest that you start new topics if the discussion is no longer about LR132 at Bonhams sale? this will make it much easier later if somebody is looking e.g. for springs for the Rapide, which he will not expect to be discussed under this topic
Cheers!
Dear Simon,
you are a good finder!
But I doubt you can find complete engines, only if you take them out of a barnfind Lagonda or somebody else did it for you. I think that is the reason that many DB Lagonda barnfinds sadly turn up without them. Plus the cost of new parts. You can buy new: blocks, heads, crankshafts, camshafts, pistons… all the internal parts, adding up to 20000 GBP. I don’t know a source for new: camshaft covers, suction manifold, timing chain cover and corresponding part where the water pump is integrated, all the casted parts around the engine.
For gearboxes I don’t know. Were they used (or similar ones) in other cars than the DB Lagonda and Aston Martin?
I personally think some 2 component epoxy resin or other modern glue is a good solution if some aluminum sheet is put under the cracked corner to hold it together and glued against the old metal. This distributes forces to a larger area compared to welding on a line or two in 75 year old aluminium, probably corroded in the cracked corner.