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Big thanks John,
You will be welcome as always to phone at any time.Very best regards to you both and will keep you all updated with the new venture.
Julian
+32 489 712 608
messentjulian@aol.comThanks Colin,
“watch this space” as they sayJulian
Hi guys,
Thanks for the comments, Absolutely right, first and foremost an enthusiast and always will be, I appreciate your help in my life and love to help all like minded enthusiasts if at all possible. If I can give back to you guys it is my pleasure.
I will be here to assist whenever you shout.Very best regards
JulianTotally agree with Chris here,
Graham Whitehouse is the top guy for pre-selectors, Cheap? depends whether you call having it built twice badly for 2/3 the cost each time a better option :o) We used to struggle with finding a really good quality rebuild on pre-selectors until we found Graham, He gives a good price guide and is always accurate and informative when he finds extra problems, and the really good thing is that he has a test rig and fully tests every box before letting it out. Top quality, Right price is how I would describe him.Best regards,
Julian
+32 489 712 608Hi David,
It’s not “that” hard on cars but they are long days and lots of miles, quite fast and intense.
Make sure the car is in really good mechanical condition and you will be fine. Can be bumpy so shocks and bracketry, cycle wings can suffer etc, but nothing special.
I’ve been there for 20 years now and seen it develop more and more, Lunch stops are short and sweet if you are on time and shorter if not, luggage is what you can carry and in a little car that’s not a lot for 3 nights and 3 1/2 days dirtiness. Tha social side is the part I like the best! During the rally I get stressed as I worry about you lot too much ;o)
Well worth it though and great fun, you will not regret entering.
I will be concentrating on looking after friends and customers for this type of event more and more in the future so drop me a line if you want to chat.
email as above or mobile +32 489 712 608Hi David,
MM is a great event,
Long days, extremely long sometimes, but really fun and no problem for your well prepared Lagonda.
Do some pressups first though as your arms may suffer,Best regards,
Julian
messentjulian@aol.comVery great shame!
Old cars for you though!
Sounds like new radiator time.Julian
Hi all,
sorry I missed this post, been extremely busy and feel terrible about saying “I forgot to clock in for a chat”
I just had a good chat with David on the phone last night and seem to be on track now thanks to all the good info here, of which I agree very much with.Generally the Meadows 4.5 is a very good reliable and strong engine, however calcium, old designs, uprated engines, blocked rads and socks, corrosion in the head and block etc all reduce the capacity of the basic system to control things.
With a new block and head, engine fully rebuilt with all the right stuff and the later LG water passage addition in the back of the block/head, all fitted with a new water pump. A standard but fully re-cored and perfect M45/LG45 radiator can cope with a 200+bhp reliably and efficiently with no overheating, even in a hot climate. (obviously the full power is not used all of the time, or even part time on the road)
This does show us that we do need to keep the whole package in tip top condition, and if we do, it will look after us. We always use water with a little glycol to limit corrosion and/or freezing, depending on the month.Blocks and pistons are and always will be a talking point and the use of liners especially.
I don’t want to preach here but we have the following rule and we stick to it extremely rigorously.
If the block needs more than one liner in any pair. ie. 1 and 2 3 and 4 5 and 6 then the block is scrapped. We will not build around it even if the customer insists. We know it will come back, usually within one year and we will have a warrantee case on our hands. (we don’t like that ;o)
The reason is two fold. a. heat dissipation is limited, even if fitted very well. b. there is not enough material left between the bores and this thin area cracks extremely quickly, especially if the liner has a good “fit” the liner then loosens, and even if it has a “top hat” section at the top to stop it from slipping down, it can still spin and then the rod hits the cut-out and Bang!! we have lots of these to rebuild so like other people who do it :o) Not really, but we do see a lot of them. My only advice if you are forced to use a fully linered block is to pin the liner in place as well as press. and use a good modern piston with a good clearance. We use 0.005″ for road and up to 0.010″ for racing. but the clearance depends on the manufacturer also. Volvo pistons need 0.008″ in my opinion and experience but we don’t use these as they tend to be noisy at this setting and tight if set smaller.Very interesting thread this though so thanks for posting David but sorry for the reasons behind it.
JulianMaybe we should start a page especially formulated to be a problem reference page with a quick search function etc?
Very best regards to all.
JulianPS.
Interesting maths Alec, I like it!Hi,
You are absolutely correct.
A nice and interesting saloon but stupid estimate! (let us hope the reserve is far below) (I would say 40k GB top whack)
The Rapide spec engine will add interest to the car but as the only real difference is the extra set of carbs it would hardly be worth any extra other than adding to what is already an interesting car. For sure no one would pay extra for this if all they wanted to do was to turn it into a Le Mans special. no more than 1500 pounds extra anyway.
Being a short chassis though and having the four carbs etc does make it rather a fun saloon. What a shame it would cost in excess of 250.000 euros to do a good restoration on it.
Let us pray it stays a saloon, but I would rather see it on the road in any form than scrapped or broken up.
I would love to own this car but would be dead before I finished it and I’m still young…..ish 😆Julian
Easy,
1. I hope you mean “Camber” angle as Caster is set by the springs and or adding wedges to the platform mountings on the axle.
2. Camber should be between 2 and 3 degrees from the vertical, I have seen and measured both. outside these figures usually means it’s either bent or been modified.
3. Caster should be between 3 and 5 degrees but you will need to experiment as different wheel / tyre / car combinations may have wheel wobble which can be remedied with a change of caster.
Start with 4 and see what happens.Regards,
JulianHi,
Yes,
there is basically what you would call a plank of wood running the length of the running boards on most Lagondas.Regards,
JulianHi,
I think it was an option to have chrome as we have seen all from paint colours to chrome.
Am sure several of the cars we have seen are absolutely un-restored and as period correct as possible.Not Nichol though, that was “old hat” in 33 on, and Chrome was the new thing!
Happy Christmas,
JulianHi,
Drop me a pic at info@LMBracing.be and I will match it up for you and post. Cost? varies depending on what we have from nothing to next to nothing.Glad to help
Regards,
JulianHi Bill,
Sorry for the late reply, been busy. :o)Both! is the short answer.
The viscosity ratings for oil are at “I think” 10 degrees C and 100 C so as the engine gets hotter you will be seeing the benefit of the 60s extra viscosity, more and more. Yes it is also a full synthetic so added bonus on the lubrication front.
Cost?
It is relatively expensive when compared to other oils,
However,
It is relatively none existent compared to an engine rebuild!I chose oil like I do a crash helmet.
I value my head, and then buy the helmet with an appropriate protection! 😉 When you do it though remember I may value my head higher than it possibly deserves 😆 😆 😆Regards,
JulianHi bill,
simple answer is that your engine is a bit tired and clearences have opened up a bit.
However don’t worry your engine can go on for years like this as long as you have as a rule of thumb 10psi per 1000 revs while under load, Idle can be at 0 or 1 and I have seen it on many occasions with old engines but also seen those same engines still running 5 years later with much use in between.
Try using Motul 20/60 performance oil, it will do the same as your oil cooler idea but with a lot more simplicity.Happy motoring,
Doctor J ;o)