Barry Brown24 October 2017 at 23:24 #52519
Well I am finally back at it ! Having fun! It is oh so easy to take things apart ! Now to decide what paint or powder for the frame. I am wondering if the small riveted plate on the inside of the right frame rail is a repair. Hard to know before sandblasting and not having seen any others. Another good reason to attend a few meets.Alec Rivers-Bowerman24 October 2017 at 23:29 #52520
Steering gear bracket location? My 16/80 has one there. Y our frame looks really good!
AlecBarry Brown25 October 2017 at 01:22 #52521
Hey Alec, The head of the local “Boots and Bonnets” English car club said the same thing about the frame.I am suddenly feeling encouraged . Yes I thought it might be reinforcement around the steering box but the position is a little further forward. So much of restoration is detective work ! :search:DavidLG4525 October 2017 at 09:53 #52522
LG45s have a riveted plate on the inside where the steering box bolts. . . .
Powder coating – you will end up with the unwanted thickness of the powder coating where the crossbars bolt on unless you mask those areas or sand it off after. You also run the risk of crap leaching out from behind where the shackle mountings are riveted on from the heat needed and spoiling the finish.DavidLG4525 October 2017 at 13:34 #52524
Further to my powder coating comments, I had a part powder coated a few years ago that had a riveted on piece. There was paint in the overlap which melted and ran out ruining the finish.
If you wanted to powder coat you would really need to remove the riveted on items so the shot blasting could clean behind. The shackle castings are a very tight fit in the front and rear of the chassis and you will not get them back in place if there is anything more than the thinnest of coating where they fit.
Personally I would remove the riveted on items, shot blast, then a thin primer put on after having done any repairs. I would then re-rivet the removed items and bolt the frame back together (making sure any brackets that were held by the main bolts were back on). Then paint the whole chassis as a unit. . . .
DavidBarry Brown25 October 2017 at 23:06 #52526
Thanks David for the valuable info . Much appreciated.Maybe I should powder coat just the front axle .
Any idea what was the original “sheen” on the frame , glossy ? satin? The body on my car was originally grey with red pinstripes on the bonnet louvres and I think the frame may have been the same grey as I see traces of that colour beneath the present black. Just curious as I am planning on BRG for the body. BarryDavidLG4526 October 2017 at 09:24 #52527
I’m no expert and others may be more informed but but I would have though a satin finish. And black. Could the grey be a primer?
Can you see the chassis colour from a normal viewing position? If not why would it be anything other than black? Have you got the build sheet, does that say the chassis colour?
The engineers on this forum can better advise you but is it a good idea to put the axle in an oven?
DavidBarry Brown26 October 2017 at 14:34 #52528
chassis was same colour as the body. I think I have found a very good paint . I’ll keep you posted.Thanks for the info BarryBill LG4526 October 2017 at 14:57 #52530
I am sure there is another thread on her about painting chassis.
If you are sand blasting the chassis I would get the same people to paint it immediately after blasting as it is surprising just how quick rust gets on a blasted surface! Suggest Zinc rich acid etch primer for a good key followed by a high quality fuel and heat resistant chassis enamel….why not ask the finishing shop you take the chassis to what they recommend? Don’t personally like powder coating as it does not get in the corners well / is hard to remove.
There is a similar reinforcing plate on my LG45 for the steering Box but I suggest you speak to member N 4 who owns an M45 .
I am sure there is another thread on her about painting chassis
BillBarry Brown27 October 2017 at 00:33 #52532
Here is what I will be using .I chose a glossy black.Barry Brown27 October 2017 at 13:00 #52533
I am already getting negative feedback about using glossy paint ! It’s not too late to change as the can is unopened . I have looked at pictures of restored M45’s and the front frame “horns” always looked glossy black.Was this original, ? Please advise . ThanksJulian Messent11 November 2017 at 08:26 #52544
Small pointer before you paint or powder coat any chassis parts.
Spray all the chassis parts with a good light base primer but only a thin coat.
Assemble the complete chassis BEFORE you paint it in top coat.
This is extremely important.
You will undoubtedly want to give the top coat a good few coats of paint and make a really good job of it. This requires a good thick coat of whatever paint or powder you use.
Now, when you bolt and rivet it all back together you will have a thick (actually now double thickness as you have mating parts) coat of paint between all parts. Good you might say? NOT GOOD, your chassis starts to flex when you drive and slowly the paint frets and gets broken down and suddenly your car feels all floppy. Your chassis will not be holding together correctly and you have a lot of work to correct it all. Same applies with wheels powder coated before the spokes are fitted.
Assemble it all immediately after a light primer and then make sure that you cover the joints well with your top coat. This is by far the best way to get it all done satisfactorily for a long time to come.
JulianJulian Messent11 November 2017 at 08:27 #52545
Paint it gloss. Looks lovely.
JBarry Brown13 November 2017 at 01:20 #52546
Thanks Julian. I had the frame blasted ( in pieces) and immediately shot with a coat of epoxy primer. I am now assembling and will apply the chassis black after.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.