Forum Replies Created
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Dear Peter,
My Father Jim died four weeks ago, quite peacefully, just short of his 94th birthday. He had been battling with cancer for many years and it had just started to spread through his organs.
A week before his death he finished a radiotherapy course then drove home (180 km) from the clinic with my Mother. The day after he fell in his kitchen and suffered mild concussion, so I put him in our very good little local hospital. Two days later he had a mild stroke but came around OK, then 3 days after that a massive stroke which put him in a coma from which he did not emerge.
Up to the day of going off for radio he was still coming across to my farm to work on our cars with me. The very last conversation I had with him, just before the coma, regarded Laurence’s V12 rear crank oil seal query which had been posted on this forum.However, to your query. (I have emailed photos to you as I still haven’t mastered attachments). In the bellhousing under the starter motor you should have a hole with a pointer screwed into it. Remove, and then reverse it. There are two holes in the flywheel, one 10deg before TDC and one 10 deg after, into which this pointer slides. Then follow the handbook instructions.
When adjusting your timing on the front gears be sure that you are rotating the motor clockwise to keep tension on the timing chain.
Regards,
Mark.I am pretty sure we have an exploded diagram of the V12 engine that my dad got from Maurice Leo about half a century ago. He is away from his home at the moment (not holidaying but a chemotherapy course) and we shall look for it amongst his extensive archives when he returns. Hopefully I can photograph it then post it on the forum.
I thought the shaft had a conventional oil seal.
MarkChristian,
The handbook for our car is the DB5 book.
Sorry, no spares to spare, but a fair bit of restoration knowledge.
MarkDavid, does that list include our #155
MarkWell done, Peter. (I have just caught up with this thread after being in the Northern Hemisphere for a month).
It is good to have one more enthusiastic DB owner making such good, if slow progress. Alan Heard should be most satisfied.
Merry Christmas to you all: this is one December we are pleased to be in Australia!
Mark and Jim.
Lawrence, I can send you photos of the original flashbacks (they are neither a silencer nor filter) as factory-fitted to our 4 carb Rapide engine. However it will take me a day or two.
Mark.Jan, if this body had a sunroof I would love to claim it.
Regards, Mark.Peter, in the past Aston Service Dorset have always been able to provide bearing shells for us.
Also federal Mogul manufacture them.
Mark.Peter, from our experience and observations some motors had the feature that yours has, others did not. It matters not, the critical thing is the level of the float forks should be the same so that at rest the level of the fuel in the jet is identical in each carburettor. To achieve this simply obtain a 1/2 inch bolt or rod, turn upside down the float chamber lid and place the bolt across the edges beneath the forks, then blow into the fuel inlet in the lid and if air will pass through then the needlevalve is not seating and a little more clearance betwen the bolt and forks is needed.
Mark and Jim.Hi Peter,
From your descriptions we think your problem is with the coil and/or the distributor cap.Since 1950 (the year after my birth) we have had in the family three 2.6 litres and two 3 litres, 290/1.
One of the 2.6’s gave trouble not dissimilar to yours. A new coil provided an instant cure.We suggest
– check that the wiring to the coil is correct. ie on a Lucas coil SW (secondary wiring) is power IN
CB (contact braker) is to the distributor points. If this order is reversed the engine will still run but the power of the spark delivered to the plugs will, on warming up, diminish rapidly.
– Distributor cap. You mention you have changed caps, was it for a brand new or second hand cap?
The caps will, after years of service or simply with age, develop non visible hairline cracks which, on heating, open up and allow the spark to take a short cut to earth.
If your cap is new, check with the old one that the terminals are in exactly the same position relative to the locating step on the original.Is your car a 290 or 290/1?
Regards,
Mark and JimIf you find that the gearbox-to-chassis earth was not the problem Peter, we think that it is a resistance causing your heating, which could be in the cable from the battery, more likely the armature, commutator and/or bushes in the starter.
Mark and JIm.I agree with reevsey, email the photo to specialists.
Peter, can you tell us all a bit about the history and condition of your 3 litre, as I imagine we are going to see lots of images of split or rusted or frozen or broken components in the months to come.
Regards,
MarkPeter,
The identification on our needles is SV. (LB 290/1 motors.)
I don’t know what Su parts are like to source in the UK, however we have an exellent fellow in Sydney, Bill Blessington of Midel Pty Ltd, with extensive stocks of new parts.
http://www.sumidel.com
Regards,
MarkPeter, thank you for this very useful information.
Regards, Mark and JimPeter,
Amongst our V12’s is one of only four Rapides produced by the factory fitted with four D4 SU carburettors. It’s exhaust had only one silencer per line delivered ex-works. However, as with Alistair’s it does not have a factory body, rather James Young.Our other cars, saloons and coupe, were fitted with the two silencers. Interestingly the exhaust notes are quite similar, single and double, and pipe diameters are identical.
regards,
Mark