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This was a long story, the workshop doing the engine took 2.5 years. Finally I have the engine back and here are some photos and a short description:
The engine received: laser welding of block, repair of aluminium cast front end plate with water pump channel, repair of suction manifolds, new: liners, pistons, crankshaft, valves and seats, oil pump..Lets start with the block: it had the usual crack between adjacent cylinders but rather enlarged by corrosion. This part was cut out and a new little piece fit in. The block was heated under vacuum several times to get old oil and glycerine out of the pores before laser welding. The idea for laser welding was that it avoids the heat of classical welding, in which case the whole block would have to be heated very much before, with risk of distortion. They did not do it in their workshop but at some aerospace industry company. I hope that I will not dismantle it ever again but if so, I would report about if it lasted. We also were hesitating if it was really necessary (the liners seal, the block is only a support) but now having it done I feel better.
Here another special repair: the water pump channel is integrated in the fron end engine cover. This channel had deep holes from corrosion. This was metal powder blasted and reground several times to build material up again.
Some minor parts to repair: broken suction manifold and water hose connector. Cut, fitted a metal piece in, welded and reshaped.
Auxiliary components: alternator and radiator
Selection of parts prepared for assembly
Camshaft and valve seats: most of the valve seats were broken, a wonder that it did not cause a broken valve
Block reassambled and test run (no power curve testing I admit but checking temperatures and oil pressure at least) resulted in optimizing the water thermostat. Enginge must be running smoothly when I see how it is fixed here..
I took the engine out myself but this was really difficult and my engine hoist not really high lifting enough. So for putting it back I went with engine and car to a local workshop with proffessional means..
After that you see the family happy to have the car back.
I am now connecting everything. The four screws of the transmission shaft universal joint are a nightmare to reach, but I finished that yesterday.
Two last images show the numbers on the rear side of the block (not the engine number). Does anybody know what they mean?
Well done ALL.
What a splendid result.
Many thanks for the pictures which really show all the hard work undertaken.
Even if it took a long time it will be well worth itMike and Barbara heins
Thank you Mike and Barbara. I hope it is as good in the long run as it looks.
Work goes on, I am making new copper tubes for the water supply to the heater (my engine had only rubber hoses going across the engine head which is not how it was when new). And I changed the little outlet from the oil filler (which is for breathing of the engine and I assume also for evaporating water that somehow comes into the oil?) I did not like that it would drip exactly on the ignition coil so I made a different one (the bent tube is from parts for heating system piping from my local DIY shop). The black is the old one.Hi Peter,
Great work, looks like a thorough job, & hope it repays you with long term reliability.
Those numbers in your last pictures could be the casting date….this was often done with block & head castings. Unfortunately not clear enough in the pictures to make anything of them though.
Laurence
Well done, Peter. (I have just caught up with this thread after being in the Northern Hemisphere for a month).
It is good to have one more enthusiastic DB owner making such good, if slow progress. Alan Heard should be most satisfied.
Merry Christmas to you all: this is one December we are pleased to be in Australia!
Mark and Jim.
Hi Peter, very inspiartional work – fantastic result!
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