Forum Replies Created
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Tim – “Thus, barring hidden mechanical horrors (which are always a distinct possibility) it would not, I think, take much to get this car back on the road to enjoy for a summer or two or three as a true ‘rolling restoration’ prospect. Therefore, in my estimation the car belongs to that rare ‘middle’ category of car to buy. My congratulations to the new owner”.
These pearls of wisdom brought a smile to my face……
I believe in faries as well, do they have a special MOT service for a car, last on the road 17 years ago……
But, best of all, well done to to the man who put his hand up for the final bid, a splendid motor-car and welcome to the very select band of owners who own one of these delightful machines !
David – that was within 2k of what I had expected for Peters car, and still cheap, and they will climb more yet….
It was a very nice looking car, but since it had been restored from a wreck with no engine and box, it was a mixture of Mk1 and Mk2 parts; but still of course looked the genuine gentlemans carriage, and was the result of a massive amount of love, work and money.
These are highly sought after cars, and imho, the best of the 1950’s Lagonda’s by some considerable distance. If the car had been all correct with right engine and all Mk1 parts, one could have anticipated perhaps ca. 90-95k +premium, and well worth it as well.
Personally I prefer the Mk 2 dhc’s with floor mounted gear-lever, either the Mk 2 3.0 litre car in dhc and 4-door, theyr seem to have been the best of these elegant cars.
Simon
I don’t agree with you about “auction house inflation”. Some might say that Bonhams deliberately set low estimates. But there is always a fine line between over-cooking the estimates and using a here to sell guide, the latter always works best.
However, given the real rarity of this car, this was the market price paid on the day, it was evident from before the auction, the car would make more than 22-25k. There would have been at least two interested people and no doubt more of course.
I hope that the new owner of LR132 finds this very valuable and useful forum, where he can find lots of helfpul advice.
With buyers premium it made 57.5K
No keys and no access to engine.
Here is another example on a DB5, three cars with same feature….
http://www.motortrend.com/classic/features/c12_0606_1965_aston_martin_db5/photo_01.html
The bonnet release assembly, which sits under and behind the dash-board is shown below.
Procedure given here:
1. To remove the hinge section, there are two bolts (with washers) holding it in place to the heater box. You will need to remove radio held in place by four screws and then you have good access.
2. Next remove the square section of dash-board which holds the clock and electric window switches in place. (two screws and a small ferrule with ball bearing which can be twisted out and removed with pliers), then very carefull twisting to take off.
3. This allows good access to the top bracket on the hinge pin. There is a nut to be undone, from the rod coming through from the engine (see picture). This rod, has an L-shaped end. Before releasing the piano hinge and pin, from this rod; tie an elastic band around the L-shaped end, and attach this to a pencil or similar, to stop it disappearing into the engine.
4. At base of the hinge pin, there is another nut and bolt to undo with several washers. This allows removal of the hinge complete. The later chrome domed nut to pull bar which comes through dash was removed, and the lower pull bar assembly also withdrawn. The spring was left in situ attached to back of heater box.
5. If your bonnet release is rusted solid, you will need to knock off one of the brackets riveted to the end of the pin. Doesn’t matter which one. Then leave to soak in rust releasing fluid for 24 hours. Take out periodically and wire-brush.
After all this treatment the pin was still siezed solid. So I used a punch and hammer to gradullay knock the pin out. Remember to remove burr from end of pin where it was riveted to the bracket!
The arched piano hinge is beautifully made, as was the pin, nicely machined. However, the reasons this was rusted in solid, were three fold, firstly steel-steel, and secondly the tolerances were way too tight a fit of pin to hinge tubes and finally the piano hinge itself can flex, if both bolts are not done up tight. The lower one was loose which contributed to the seizure, since the pin could not move freely.
Now that I have this release mechanism in pieces, I will turn the shaft down to allow me to insert two thin brass bushes into the hinge steel tubes.
Secondly, I will file 2 mm off both top and bottom hinges tubes, to allow a little more freedom in this setting mechanism.
Then I will spray the metal work back to original silver-gray color; re-rivet bottom part of linkage to end of steel pin and put back in car.
By the way, I know the chrome knob on the end of the bonnet pull is not original. Have managed to find one at the ever helpful ASD.
Another example of the same heat shield on a 1963 car, see reference below :
http://bringatrailer.com/2008/08/29/astons-square-sister-1963-lagonda-rapide/
Clearly, there was a real problem with air circulation in the engine bay, which by early 1963 was already realized; and this heat guard was put in to stop various more fragile parts, such as fuse boxes, washer bottle etc, being cooked.
I will be looking when I get to this stage for either having my radiator recored or an ally radiator, and an extra fan as well.
I will have to remind myself to look how well the bulk head was thermally insulated when I get the engine and box out. I can imagine it is not too impressive in that department and it will get modern upgrades there.
More pictures, this time, passenger side electrics, also very clean, and heater/cold air piping in as new condition again.
A few more pictures of the engine and also the bonnet thermal lining and the louves which will need replacing to sides of engine bay.
Not the wisest choice of material for the louves, mine are covered in an old thicky bitumun oily layer and rust…
Thank you for your assistance.
Another very helpful owner has directed me as follows :
1. Knurled knob to the left is speaker balance, front to back.
2. Middle non-standard switch – unknown
3. Far right push button is for the petrol filler cap release.
The Rapide does not have a starter button, it has an ignition key and choke which is needed when starting from cold.
Thats very interested, given your car sat outside for 25 years and the wiring was still fine, thats a big plus point not having to worry about re-wiring and new loom etc……
Extra wiring for auto-box, immobiliser etc.
I guess that you will be checking all connectors and spades and replacing where needed etc ??
Christian hi,
When I get to this stage, will take out the engine/box and then work through the engine bay.
I knew this question was coming, they look just like yours did, will post some pictures, hopefully later on today! You posted some excellent pictures on the forum of before and after, so I know where to come too for advice. They look rather tricky to make, and I anticipate a few goes to get them right as well.
Best news, was once the bonnet release popped, the bonnet opened very easily. No need for any WD40, which was pleasant suprise, had expected more problems with hinges, but none!
Bonnet insulation looks rather ropey of course.
Simon
A few more pictures.
Tim hi,
After you have enjoyed your week-end, can you please update with the price the car sold for.
Thank you
Simon
A good possibilty, especially since it is wired into the loom, and has always been there
However, normally, the isolator switch located next to the battery was enough, as on most DB cars.
I won’t find out for awhile though.
Not mentioned in the build sheet, but wiring contemporary with the loom, and same set-up as for igntion barrel and relay, which I accessed today. So best guess is an early anti-theft / early immobiliser. Thankfully, the key is present!