Forum Replies Created
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I fully agree with bill. If the cooling water boils it shows a problem that should be solved and I am very hesitating in using new products because sometimes they create unexpectected trouble elsewhere. For example these cooling liquids allow much higher temperatures before boiling (that is the idea) but is that really good? What does the chemistry do to the old materials in the long run? For modern traffic (jams) I put an electric fan on my cars.
I followed that auction yesterday on the internet to see where this low estimate ends up and I was surprised how quickly this sale was finished compared to a simple BMW of the 80s where the auctioneer took more time to bring up the price to 950 GBP. I think that was a very good buy if you see how meticulously the car had been restored: http://lagonda-v12dhc.blogspot.ch/
Barry: I also liked this V12 on the observation desk, but the desk is built in swiss quality for driving onto with a car for loading and unloading (not in this corner) and the owner of the car can not walk to far
Simon: weather was fine at least most of the time. Definately I prefer the DB 3ltr in the alps. Only embarassing if you get stuck behind a modern car in “slow motion”
Dear Laurence,
I first echanged the coil in the original position and the problem was the same, then I put another new coil in the new position.
At least the coil has an easyer life there because where it sits originally it is a very hot place and then of course it heats up a bit more itself by the current flowing. May be coils from the 50s and 60s were better made to stand high temperatures.
Some spare parts are in my battery replacing box, some more in the trunk..
Back to the topic: the replica tourer body of this car looks a bit odd to me, the back end of the car looks “enlarged”.
further it says in the auctioneers text “The engine ran well and it was decided, following specialist advice, to treat it with a ceramic sealant as there were some very slight cracks visible on the outside of the block..”Coming back to where this topic started: randall977 (Christian)
Christian has asked me to remove the two very long restoration blogs that he had started, which I regret because they were very informative and helpful. As amateur admin of this forum I do not have the time to keep all long threads on track and act against unjustified criticism.
I hope he will bring back a summary or some of the information later.
My recommendation for all forum users is: start short threads on each topic. Go to the appropriate section and start a new topic rather than adding to an ongoing one and discussing about something else. For example this topic here started with the question what happened to randall977 and later the discussion is about color codes..
If you discuss the whole restoration of your car you risk to receive justified or unjustified bad comments. If you want to avoid this completely you should not post on a forum but create your homepage and display it there. And if somebody replies agressively on something posted he risks that the willingness to post goes down.
thank you Simon, I also did some more research on this topic:
Answer from Steve Hunt:
A DR3 is 2 speed has reverse parking and 5 or 6 wires coming out of it.
DR3A single speed no reverse parking no wires
Dr3A two speed no reverse parking and 3 wires coming outI looked on the cover of my wiper motor, the Lucas item number reads 75311 B. I don’t know what the B means but 75311 is confirmed by internet research. It is a DR3 unit (6 wires this one, 5 or 6 makes no difference because two of them connect to the same point internally).
Lucas 75311 was also used in Jaguar MkI, MkII and 420, Daimler V8 and 250, Aston DB2 (54-59), Shelby Cobra. Jaguar spare part number of Lucas 75311 is C13503 (or C13504 for lefthand drive).
Now the question of wiping angle: this is only defined by the plastic cogwheel (gear), the more excentric the pin is on this wheel the more travel and the more wiping angle you get. In my unit I found a 120degree wheel (it is stamped on it). I did not find this wheel in the webshop of Steve Hunt (only the 150degree version). This wheel has Jaguar part number 7191 and can be bought from SNGBarratt.com (Jaguar supplies). I have ordered one from them and will post on the result.
I looked up the results:
the 2.6 did not sell at 38000 CHF despite looking quite well restored on the photos
the 3ltr sold at 75000 CHF (plus 12% premium). I would rather say this is a lot money for the car which is “well maintained and had a respray a few years ago”. (no rebuilt of engine, brakes etc. no general restoration). Look at details like the electrics. Is that dashboard original? looks a bit selfmade to me. Mine is a later 1957 car but the dashboard (see attached image) is varnished root wood and looks a bit more sophisticated.
Simon, btw, why 1952 “Brooklands” Lagonda (subject) ?
After much playing around with the cables and with the help of the above scheme from Martin and the scheme and explanations in the DB Lagonda manual supplied by the club I finaly undestood how it works and It worked for a while but now it suffers mechanical trouble (too much rain lately). I am looking for either a complete replacement wiper motor (Lucas DR3 two speed with parking position) or at least the main gear inside (the big plastic cogwheel). There seems to be a version with 130 and 150 degree specification, what does that mean ?
Also happy if somebody has advice where to buy these parts.
PeterTim, yes, please mention the forum or me as source
Weather was perfect..the day before and after but we all enjoyed again the happy Lagonda family. All cars ran faultlessly in the rain forrest (black forrest).
Dear Stewart,
I fully agree. A 2 litre LC tourer estimated 68-75k did not sell at 60k (H&H). Another 2litre LC tourer with (ridiculous) engine rebuilt cost of 198k and estimated 60-80k did sell at 50k (plus premium, Bonhams). A V12 saloon said to be in good running condition sold for 28k (plus premium, Bonhams). It seems auctions not always bring the best prices for the owners or is the market going down for not really perfect cars? at least this is an advantage of the auction: it reflects market changes very fast. And you can get rid of your car without long discussions with potential buyers.
Peter
faster circulation gives always better heat transfer, has no negative effect. If going more quickly through the radiator (difference in and out will be smaller but more than compensated by more frequent exchange).
I agree with other tests (gas leak, crack, head gasket..)Dear John,
I also often had local evaporation in the cylinder heads in my V12 after longer uphill driving but with overall water temperature still acceptably low. Solution is better water circulation and I think this is more important than differences between coolants and additives.
In my case the best would be to completely clean the heads and blocks from corrosion and limestone. I only removed the waterplates and the sludge behind. I tried to clean the engine with pumping acidic cleaner around (with an external pump) but with limited success.
Also my water pump has probably corroded blades with low pumping efficiency so boiling occurs at low revs after forced driving when I switch to a higher gear after reaching the hill top.
The solution for the moment (since a few years..) is an electrical water pump in series with the normal one.
In general the solution is a clean block and head and an efficient water pump.
Me too, I am not hibernating but extremely busy at work plus it is to cold in my garage. Something I want to look at next would be the master brake cylinder in my V12