Forum Replies Created
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Hi, 4″ is far too much. IF the car is wondering and you have to correct the steering then it is time to do something about it. First of all check that the front wheels are properly seated on the hub and that there is no play. This can lead to vague steering.
Next check the ball joints on the steering arm. If there is movement in the ball joints this can usually be taken up either by tightening up the end screw or if there is a lot of play pack out the rear ball-joint cup. They may even be too badly worn and need ball and cups. then inspect the track rod ends for play.
After that its to steering box.
Len
Hi PAul,
The company I use is Speedograph Richfield ( https://www.speedograph-richfield.com/ ) they do a good job but are not quick. worth ringing them to see if they can help.
Len
John, I should have mentioned that the 3 washers for the inlet/outlet couplings are copper.
Hi John,
I eventually found my diverter tap. I intend fitting this to my 16/65 which currently only has a main supply.
I’ve stripped mine down and you can see the dimensions in the attached photo. I measure the upper cork gasket at 3/32″ (0.09″) and the lower one 5/64″. Both are cloth mesh reinforced, though I don’t think that would be critical. Importantly I think are the 4 washers, 3 of which seal the inlet/outlet couplings and the larger one on the diverter tap retaining bolt/banjo are critical to the sealing of the tap assembly. If these are not sound they could easily cause leaks or let air into the system.
I have plenty of cork gasket but none these exact sizes, sorry
I think fitting nitrile rubber would be a good modern substitute and in fact probably better than cork. The key is going to be to make them exactly the same as the holes in them need to line up with the holes in the diverter tap. You could super glue them to the diverter fitting to make sure they stay in line.
Hopefully this is of help. Let me know if I can help further.
Len
Sorry John I didn’t see the earlier thread. I think I have one in my box of useful bits. I’ll take it apart and photograph the internals for you – an me!. Making up cork gaskets shouldn’t be too difficult. I have various thickness cork sheets and plenty of hole punches.
I’ll report back later today Len
Hi John, which switch do you have? IF it is the one that sits on top of the glass bowl then your only solution is to lap it in. These seal by a interference fit and over time the brass wears and allows air into the fuel system. The pressure on the tap is maintained by a small spring underneath held in by a washer and split pin. Worth checking this is OK and actually pulling the tap down.
A second thought is regarding the hiss. On the old LP SU pumps the pressure is not usually enough to make hissing. Do you have a modern petrol pump?. If so you might want to put a pressure regulator in to reduce the pressure.
Hi Ian,
This is not a straightforward question to answer as much depends on when your engine was rebuilt. IF you don’t know then the safest bet is to continue with the original Lagonda recommendation. The oils Lagonda originally recommended were Prices Motorine C De Luxe, Wakefield Castrol XXL, Mobil D and Aero Shell. These are all SAE40 straight oils. They would have contained anti-foaming, anti-oxidants and pour point suppressants but not detergents/dispersants. So a single grade SAE40 non-detergent/dispersant oil is what you should use if you are to stick with Lagonda’s original recommendation.
IF the engine has recently been rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned internally then you can use modern oil, 20W/40 is preferable but the standard 20/50 is fine.
The next question is, should you use a Detergent/Dispersant Oil in your 20W40 or 50? The common advice is “Yes” if the engine has recently been rebuilt and fully cleaned, and under no circumstances if not. However, one of the interesting points to come out of Richard Michell’s excellent book is that the answer is probably “Yes” even if the engine has not been rebuilt/cleaned and particularly if your engine still only has the original simple oil filtration systems. There are two reasons to alter this common misconception:
1. Dispersants hold the combustion solids in suspension and prevent them from amalgamating together to form large particles which, when large enough, settle as sludge at the bottom of the sump in an unfiltered engine. When these combustion particles are formed they are microscopic and do little damage to the engine. Once the combine to form larger particles they can start to cause damage and start to build up and block oil-passage ways. Their size when they start to cause damage is still too small for them to settle out under gravity as sludge so they are circulating around the engine causing wear. The job of the dispersant is to stop this amalgamation of the combustion particles and hence reduce damage. Together with the detergent it also discourages the tendency for the particles to adhere to the metal surfaces and accumulate there.
2. From the 1960’s it was hard to find non-detergent/dispersant oil. So unless the owner was aware and took the trouble to find non-detergent/dispersant oils it is very likely that your engine has used oil with detergent/dispersant in it for a number of years.
So unless you can guarantee the engine has never used non-detergent oil you are probably safe to use it.
I hope this is useful
Hi Alan, You should have a chat with Laurence Drake. He fitted new Blockleys and experienced steering problems on his 16/80. I don’t know how he resolved it. YOu can get his contact details from the Member’s Register.
Hi David,
There is no doubt that the modern replacement is a more useable set up. The trouble with the original Lagonda clutch is that it gets white hot if you slip the clutch and thus it destroys it. You cannot ride the clutch as you can a modern car or the replacement Borgan Beck clutch.
However, I would stick with the original simply because it is original. Correctly set up it will give good service and a long life provided you remember never to rider or slip the clutch in use. The Club sell both the drive plate and friction discs/rivets. It is an easy job to replace these.
That said the modern clutch has been designed so tht you can return it to the original Lagonda clutch arrangement.
Len
Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should an “Extended Life” antifreeze, which utilizes Organic Additive Technology (OAT, H-OAT, or N-OAT) as one of its chemicals, ever be used in our cars.
Antifreeze that can be used safely is the old older-fashioned Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT) additive.
You can’t always tell by the color of the antifreeze always look for IAT antifreezes.
These old fashions antifreezes have a short life of about 2 years so should be regularly changed to be effective.
Hi Nigel,
John Stoneman has sent me a couple of close up Lagonda drawings that should help you out. I’ll email you the higher definition drawings if you want. Call John Stoneman and he should be able to help you. You can find his details in the MEmber’s Register in the website.
Len
Hi STephen, Have you tried speaking with Burlen. They supply and restore Zenith carbs and they have a very handy explanation section on thier website. See http://zenithcarb.co.uk/zenserviceguide/?___store=zenith
This 5 or 6 page article explains the workings of the Zenith carb and tuning methods. It seems exactly what you are looking for and should get you going. If you’ve already read all this let me know and I’ll ask an old boy I know who may have some tips. Len
Have you tried ALan Brown. his contact details are in the Member’s Register on the website.
Hi Norman,
The number stamped in the chassis frame should be the same number as the “Car Number” on the ID plate on the bukhead. All LG45 had a car number (which is the chassis number) starting with 12xxx. The engine number has the same format. The 69.35/6 means nothing to me and I doubt it is a factory number but I will check for you. What is the Car number on the iD plate and I’ll check in our records to see if this number has any relevance. (I am the Assistant Registrara of the Lagonda Club) If you prefer you can email me direct on len.cozzolino@lagondaclub.com
I look forward to hearing from you
Len