h14

21 August 2016 at 17:26 #52090

Not necessarily, from that comparison, other manufacturers make hotter plugs than the AB2, and there is only one gap between the AB6 and AB2….and the only plug in that heat range is the Champion one mentioned.

Difficult, but you really need to establish if it’s rings or valve guides. New rings and a light hone certainly worked for my 205CTi, but metallurgy is better today, and our old engines wear more quickly than their modern counterparts.
Whatever it doesn’t sound like this is an everyday problem, so I think you can kick the ball down the line a bit. Incidentally, I was reading up on Scintilla magnetos today, and oiling up of plugs can result if you have fitted suppressors (resistors) or modern resistance core leads…all a big no-no with magnetos.

Laurence

h14

21 August 2016 at 08:43 #52088

Searching for something else, I just came across a page I copied from one of my brother’s Alvis club magazines, giving a comparison of suitable plugs available in the 1990s. This states “Worn engines will require a plug one stage warmer to burn the oil off the electrodes.”
Cold to hot for then available 18mm NGK plugs is:
A8 – A7 – – – AB6 – AB2. So that indicates your choice would be AB2. If you wanted to try a plug between AB6 and AB2, your only choice is the Champion D21.
Hope this helps. But don’t overlook that that oil indicates that something is getting worn and will need attention in the future. Changing the plugs might eradicate the symptom, but it won’t be a cure!
Laurence

h14

13 August 2016 at 09:04 #52070

One suspects that these were what we would term today “aftermarket accessories”. I do like originality, but to my mind, as such, I’d have no qualms about fitting one. After all, period, but not factory, spot lights might have been fitted by the original owner.
As I bought it, my V12 came with the remnants of the original downpipes, flexible tubing, a very long straight section of aluminium tubing, finishing in copper silencers with fishtails.
Believe it or not, the aluminium was fine. What did for it was almighty explosions, followed by discovery that the rectangular section copper silencers were now nearly circular, with holes where the copper had split.
Although the copper silencers clearly had some age to them, they appeared to have been hand (although well made) made so I doubt they were original. I had a stainless system made up, finished with fishtails….and the fishtails appear to have been a stock item as opposed to something specifically made for my car.
Incidentally, I have seen fishtail exhausts where the fishtail internally consists of a row of tubes. I’m not sure what benefit that might provide.
Laurence

h14

26 July 2016 at 20:05 #52055

When I came back to the UK to collect my Riley RMB (which I’d last driven in 1975!) from the restorer, I brought a selection of Whitworth spanners over with me.

Naturally, one of the first things that needed attention proved to have AF fixings!

Needless to say, the chimps masquerading as “professional engineers” who “rebuilt” my LG6 used AF fixings … not to mention the odd metric. So the bag of tools I carry grows ever heavier…

Moral of story if you don’t know your car in that detail, is CARRY EVERYTHING! Large and small adjustable spanners and mole grips are useful tools of last resort (as, Colin, I hope that tool is for you!), mauled nuts and bolts resulting from use of inappropriate tools should be avoided except in emergencies!

Laurence

h14

25 July 2016 at 13:29 #52047

To add to that background; in conversation at a club meeting many years ago, I was told that it was fairly common at one time for members to donate their unwanted/worn out Lagonda, in the mistaken belief that they were giving them to the Lagonda Club itself.
So, little justification for the prices charged for at least some parts from this source. But of course, that needs to be balanced by the observation that those same parts might well have been unobtainable otherwise.

h14

28 June 2016 at 20:43 #52029

Hi Julian,

That’s reassuring, many thanks.

Best wishes

Laurence

h14

28 June 2016 at 10:02 #52026

Hi Julian,
Many thanks for your reply. Just located my SU Carb. Workshop Manual. Their listing shows the D5 is 1 5/8″ throttle diameter, whereas the D4 is 1 3/8″. A D4L is also listed, which is 1 1/2″, but I assume it’s the D4 on factory 4-carb. set-ups.

So; the D4 is a fair bit smaller than the D5, not the other way round. Does what you say still hold true? Will petrol consumption be materially different between 4 D4s and 4 D5s?

Interestingly, the manual states “Max. Capacity in B.H.P.” For the D4: 55, and D5: 75. Unfortunately, no explanation or guidance is given. That indicates max bhp for a 2 carb V12 is 150 (oh dear), and for a 4 D4 version 220, which I think matches Lagonda’s claimed output. Perhaps I can look forward to 300bhp!

Laurence

h14

21 June 2016 at 20:59 #52016

I suspect Donald Sessions could well be the D and S of DWS, makers of the hydraulic jacking system on LG6s and V12s, and probably also LG45s.

Laurence

h14

30 May 2016 at 18:54 #51989

Hi Julian,
That’s very interesting, who’d have thought that. Thanks for the heads up.
Laurence

h14

24 May 2016 at 20:24 #51978

Hi Bill,

Assuming diameters are identical, it shouldn’t take long for the shoes to bed in. One drum is a little scored so another aim is to swap that around so that fresh shoes attack the high points.
Unfortunately I don’t have the machinery required to drill the drums. They would need to be as the originals, where the holes are very large, 4″ diameter, stepped to accept the sprung aluminium lids. Slight error could lead to balancing issues, so could be fraught!

Laurence

h14

24 May 2016 at 17:01 #51976

Thanks Mark. My V12 has drilled drums all round, and there have been no problems with the ones on the front. I’m inclined therefore to try swapping…probably find they won’t swap now!

Laurence

h14

24 May 2016 at 14:00 #51974

Any observations, anyone?

h14

24 May 2016 at 13:59 #51973

Any observations anyone?

h14

20 May 2016 at 12:07 #51955

The 1964 Rover 2000 my parents owned for many years had Dunlop brakes, which were forever plagued with rust in the cylinders. One was so bad that we had to buy new. The new one was (nickel?) plated. The plating wasn’t great…..but we never had any rust problems with that cylinder. Could be a thought for improving original cylinders.

Laurence

h14

16 May 2016 at 10:29 #51946

Hi,
Many thanks for reply. I guess you concur re lubricant and positioning of the damper.
I prefer to keep the engine appearance as original, but might well consider your recommendation for an alternative damper when I have the engine re-rebuilt.

Laurence