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I’ve spoken with B99 who confirms that he did experiment with this modification but in his opinion it wasn’t really perfected. The LR rod ends have a smaller diameter thread and so need a threaded bush to be made that inserts into the track rod first. Then the taper on the LR end is a different taper to the Lagonda which also needs a thin adaptor.
I’m going to strip things apart and see what’s what. Stephen, I presume you’ve been through this?
I’m probably going to adapt things to suit the V12 track rod ends I’ve been given but will report back when it’s done.
The part numbers I have (not confirmed yet) are RTC5870 (LH thread) and RTC5869 (RH thread).
It seems as if genuine Land Rover parts are sealed for life whereas some cheaper ones have grease nipples. I quite like the idea of grease nipple ones to squeeze out any moisture but I guess Land Rover ones are probably used to being subjected to worse conditions than I will manage in my LG45.
Any other pearls of wisdom or shared experiences would be very welcome.
I’ll get in touch with B99 to enquiry about tapered sleeves.
I didn’t realise that Lmarr have a UK agent and am surprised that they didn’t mention it as I had several phone conversations with Mike Rabin. That could well be of interest to anyone thinking no f buying new. I agree with Bill that refurbished originals is an excellent way to go if the offset works. I’d have probably gone that way if it would have been an option.
Will Feinnes of Feinnes Restoration. It wasn’t, how shall I put this, a seamless process…… Excellent quality so no issues there but I must have made 8 trips from Kent to Gloucestershire – many of which were a complete waste of time. The whole process took over 18 months.
Will has the wooden former for my discs but as I had them made to fit new wheels I can’t be certain that they have the same hub to rim offset as your wheels. You would need to give them a wheel to work with. If they’re the same as mine then it couldn’t possibly take as long as they’ll have the former for spinning the discs. The machined parts will be turned by them from billets. Plating always seems to take a while. All that said, Imwould use Feinnes again because to me it’s the quality that counts above anything else.
Give me a call if you’re thinking of pursuing this as I have some thoughts about how I would do it next time round. I’ve possibly got some spare bits and pieces you could borrow.
Lmarr in the US eventually offered me a price that was very favourable but it came through after I’d placed orders with Feinnes and I wouldn’t go back on a deal once agreed. Lmarr’s original price was way out once you factored in import duties so it was frustrating that he didn’t just give me his best price from the outset.
How fantastic. Did you ask if he had any photos you could have? Would be a really nice addition to your records and I’m sure it would make a great feature article in the club magazine.
As a new member has shown interest in reinstating wheel discs on his car I thought I should update this subject.
I was fortunate to have all the original wheel disc components as a starting point, although they were mostly in a shockingly poor state. For anyone that isn’t familiar with what a ‘set’ of parts is I’ve tried to list them below. I’m not sure what the proper names for everything is but I can’t be too far out.
Front wheel disc. (The shiny part you see.)
Valve extension (Links the wheel valve to the new disc.)
Valve extension fork. (Holds the extension piece in place so you can line up the disc over it.)
Valve extension locking washer.(Chromed threaded washer with 2 holes for tightening with special key.)
Threaded dust cap shroud (Screws down against the locking washer.)
Dust cap.
Backing plate. (functional and not decorative disc to fit on the rear of the wheel.)
Hub ring. (Quite complicated flange ring to fit in the front of the wheel and clamp through the spokes to the backing plate. Includes an external thread for the final locking ring that holds the wheel disc in place.)
Chromed centre ‘dish’. (This is a tight fit in the hub ring but it moves just enough to push tight to the wheel centre when you knock on the spinner.)
Spoke clamps. (These are themselves short spokes that fit between the wheel spokes and clamp the backing plates to the hub ring.)
Chromed threaded locking ring to tighten up onto the wheel disc. (Has 3 small holes in rim to accept C spanner.
C spanner. 7″I refurbished the rear discs, spoke clamps, chrome centre dish, dust cap parts and C spanner. All the other bits were newly made.
The attached photos will show how it all fits together. These photos were taken after about 1,300 miles of driving in all weather so you can see that the discs have done a great job of keeping them clean. All still secure and no damage to the wheels.
The masking tape on one photo shows where I was balancing them so please ignore that. They were my marks of where weights were needed. I had them balanced and marked with all the discs in place then removed the front disc only and stuck adhesive weights to the inner and outer rims in the appropriate places.
If anyone wants to go through this themselves I would be happy for them to come and measure up but I suspect there are plenty of these parts knocking about under benches in members garages as few people seem to use them. Perhaps they can’t be bothered. I think they look smart and are a nice original feature but accept that it’s a heck of a lot of work and not to everyone’s taste.
Hi Rich,
Good luck with your search. Try genius of the lamp http://www.geniusofthelamp.co.uk/
Or Fiennes https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=feines&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari&gfe_rd=cr&ei=m9yvVqLvKIam8wepmp7AAw#hl=en-gb&q=fiennes+restoration+ltdAs mentioned before, I might be interested in your P100’s.
David
Rich,
David is correct that Jon Leo will most likely have original build sheets. He will provide a superb quality facsimile for a small fee. If you can’t track him down I can find you his number when I return from the car event I’m at in Paris at the moment. Give me a call next week if you’re stuck.
My build sheet not only had the original order specifications but also all works service records up to 1953.
David
Rich,
David is correct that Jon Leo will most likely have original build sheets. He will provide a superb quality facsimile for a small fee. If you can’t track him down I can find you his number when I return from the car event I’m at in Paris at the moment. Give me a call next week if you’re stuck.
My build sheet not only had the original order specifications but also all works service records up to 1953.
David
My build sheet says Fort Dunlop. 1936.
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Peter, you must be proud of that. A really superb job – well done and thanks for posting.
Those are the same grease nipples as on my MkII Aston. I’ve a nice original grease gun for it and have a new spare end connector somewhere. Let me know if you’re stuck and I’ll dig it out for you.
Looking on ebay, I reckon the fat one 3rd up from the bottom and in the middle of this lot will be what you’re after: –
There is a more expensive one that will definitely fit here but I would think you’ll find something much cheaper.
I hope that helps.
Like this?
Richard, do you have a photo and any measurements? David
Richard,
I’m a staunch supporter of Brooklands and love everything about the place but in my opinion the NYD meeting has always been a bit disappointing. Hundreds of cars but more modern classics than older, more interesting, classics/vintage/veterans. Just not quite my cup of tea. I saw quite enough Ford Capri’s, Escorts, Vauxhall Viva’s and Hillman Avenger’s when they were new! (I even had one of each!!)
We are members of the Maidstone Historic Vehicle Group and they always have a very good road run and lunch on NYD so we will be joining them. I’m keener on driving my cars that parking up and looking at them so this is more our thing. If you’re near me and fancy coming I would happily make the arrangements for you to be our guests.
It will be interesting to hear what other members have in mind so well done for starting this topic.
David