Forum Replies Created
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David13 January 2014 at 17:32 #50621
My car has an under-bonnet pad, about 1/2 inch thick stuff like black felt, glued to the underside. Originals are no longer available so I had a new one made in Dorset for the other car, whose original had come slightly unstuck and got chewed by the fan (before I fitted a replacement cowl)
David13 January 2014 at 15:22 #50619Looking splendid Christian! 2 questions please a) what’s the blue label on the air box? b) Are you planning to fit an under-bonnet insulation pad (or is is there just not visible in the photos), and which might also help stop it drumming?
David22 December 2013 at 15:42 #50583Have you tried Aston Service Dorset on +44 1202 574727? They dismantled many of this model in the 60/70s
David13 December 2013 at 12:27 #50562I hope you’ve got enough electrical power to cope with that fan load as well as other stuff, e.g. at night in rain!
David12 December 2013 at 18:49 #50559Andy Chapman would stress that the only proper way in for air is through the radiator aperture, so the slats are for air exit, aided by the low pressure areas in the front wheel arches. Air in through the unsealed bonnet allows turbulence or static under-bonnet air which as Ray says causes heat soak; from practical experience heat soak is reduced if the bonnet is “up” on its first catch where flow is aided by the low pressure region at the base of the front windscreen, which suggests that the bonnet seal might be usefully omitted in this area. That said there is a slight lip on the underside of the bonnet here which might disable the flow when the bonnet is fully closed. It’s for these reasons that I’m sceptical about the effectiveness of the additional bonnet air inlet scoops fitted to the Australian car 110
David11 December 2013 at 08:13 #50554Many congratulations Christian, an outstanding result for yourself. Much looking forward to seeing the finished car!
David
David17 September 2013 at 16:55 #50418I think the original Rapide aeriial was similar in principle to the photo but the tube holding the unextended segments is about half the length shown (being c.3 times the diameter of the motor). I have (a broken) one if you’re interested as my car has a manual aerial now fitted
David13 September 2013 at 14:16 #50400If I’m looking at the correct ebay item it’s ex-DB4 and in Malvern. Seeing the shift more closely, again I’d recommend a call to GW to see if they have converted one of these 3-speed floor shifts to 4-speed, and how. On the column change there is no externally visible machining etc needed for the conversion, just a new 4-speed label, but this 3 speeed floor shift appears to have “scallops” for the D, D and L.
2 further thoughts, if you do end up in Malvern we are not far away so you could have a demo of how the 4-speed works. Also, you’ll need to ensure the engine front damper is “as new” because mine broke apart the first time of kick-down from 3 to 1: the metallastic sheared
Brasso worked in the end!
David13 September 2013 at 12:31 #50398I get it now! I’d therefore propose you might check with ASD to see if the components necessary to convert the steering column back to, in effect, a “manual” stick-shift configuration, are available, so you could remove the cumbersome column shift castings etc. I think you’d also need to experiment with the positioning and right length of floor auto shift lever for comfortable use. I have spare gearbox tunnels if you need to experiment
Water & detergent working – very slowly!
David13 September 2013 at 10:19 #50396I’ll try brasso if water & detergent doesn’t work; thanks for the suggestion
Simon, I wouldn’t be tempted by a spare slush box with no known pedigree, if you want one, GW Autos have dozens (& dozens). Better in my view to invest in one of their 4-speed conversions which make the car much more drivable and quieter at motorway speeds (2200 rpm not 3000+)
David13 September 2013 at 06:46 #50390Now how to remove the 50 year old glue residue from the part number label!
David11 September 2013 at 18:53 #50388Simon, thanks for your kind offer to consider if a repair were feasible however the existing item already has some small pieces missing around the thread and since lost. I was also considering if the item was common with other vehicles so asked an independent specialist (GW) whose view was that it is actually a Lagonda item, of which he did not have any spares, so ASD should be first port of call. Too late now anyway as the new item is in the post & paid for!
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