Forum Replies Created

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 212 total)
  • Posted in:  
  • bill
    30 April 2016 at 16:37 #51898

    I have Blockleys on 2 prewar cars and have found them to be very good.
    The only downside is that you can get some road noise on certain surfaces but I believe that Blockleys may have cured that now.
    I think you will find that the rubber is comparatively soft compared to other makes. However this means that they are good in the rain or on a wet road – which is a useful safety factor with an old car.

    bill
    28 April 2016 at 18:35 #51886

    The only way to be certain that they will fit it to offer up one of the discs to your own wheel. It is the offset (ie the aligment of the rim in relation to the hub) of your own wheel that is the most important thing and offsets can often vary from car to car without this always being obvious.
    If the offset of your wheel is different to the offset of the disc they will not fit properly – either against the rim or against the centre or even both !
    In my experience these original discs should be cheap (mine were) as no one seems to want them ! However I think they look wonderful – particularly if they are original ones.

    bill
    25 April 2016 at 08:33 #51881

    I am almost certain that this is standard LG45. There is nothing special about the cable itself. Presumably you have the casting etc which bolts to the cylinder head and also you have the bracket on the chassis ? You will need the adjustable “stop” which goes on the arm between the 2 carburettors – although it would be easy to make one if not.
    Which bits do you actually have or need ?

    bill
    18 April 2016 at 08:31 #51867

    Yes David, this is a similar problem I had a year or 2 ago. I think there may be a slight “design fault” with the LG45 cap and you need to be absolutely certain that it goes down flat onto the neck – with a decent cork or similar seal. I solved my problem by paying particular attention to the cap and also to the seal. Also, as you probably know, only fill up the header tank inside to a level which is equivalent to the top edge of the badge (fixed outside).

    bill
    5 April 2016 at 12:43 #51853

    Also check that there is no water in the oil – so maybe change the oil to be on the safe side ?

    bill
    17 March 2016 at 09:24 #51829

    David, yes I agree !
    On reflection I realise that I actually put the spacers in to lower the body as it seemed too high. Not the other way round !
    I should really have stuck to the original point that I was trying to make : – By putting in a spacer on one side or the other it would adjust for any “lean”.
    Sorry for the confusion !

    bill
    16 March 2016 at 18:35 #51826

    David, glad to know that there was an obvious reason !
    Apart from swapping from side to side why not also put in a steel block/spacer – if necessary only on one side to get the car to sit level. I did this on my LG45 (although on both sides) at the rear after Jones reset my springs. I then took the spacers (about 15mm) out after some mileage when the springs had “settled”.

    bill
    6 March 2016 at 09:44 #51791

    In my experience springs will always settle after a car is first rebuilt. Why not swap the springs over from side to side and see how this affects the height of the car. The 10mm/35mm difference could be affected by the front of the car of course. Have you checked the front springs as well ?? Maybe the LH front is set too high ??
    I assume that the chassis was checked for twist/triangulation etc before rebuild. Sorry if this is stating the “bleeding obvious” !

    bill
    24 February 2016 at 09:08 #51768

    Although I bought the top hat filter for my LG45 I made the one on my M45. it is not too difficult. You can use brass gauze or stainless gauze. I think that stainless makes a better job although you will have to silver solder it all together as lead solder would not “take” to the stainless.

    bill
    23 February 2016 at 09:16 #51765

    I may be wrong about the club spares although I was fairly certain that is where I bought mine some years ago. The alternative is David Ayre at prewarcarparts as I know he also used to sell them.
    I have used the top hit gauze filter in preference to a sock for 20+ years now. It does need to be cleaned out every 2 years or so but the advantage is that you know it needs to be cleaned as the car starts to run a bit hotter ! With a sock you never get any warning that it is about to burst or even has done so.
    Just to be clear, the brass top hat type filter sits inside the top tank not inside the hose. The flange of the filter is trapped between the radiator top face and the aluminium top casting.
    I have used the top hat type gauze filter on my 3 litre, M45 and now LG45.
    If you cant get the top hat type then I would use the conical one. Your radiator is too important to risk !!

    bill
    22 February 2016 at 18:43 #51762

    Use one of the “top hat” gauze filters from the Club. Much more reliable than a sock. If the sock bursts your radiator is in trouble !
    There was a discussion about this on the Forum about 12-18 months ago I think.

    bill
    11 February 2016 at 10:04 #51745

    Just as a slight “aside” if you dont mind replacing the original Lagonda track rod and want to use a modern TRE. It really isnt difficult to make a new track rod if necessary (to replace the Lagonda one) which can then be threaded internally for the correct TREnd thread end. Make sure you only use a reasonably thick walled hydraulic seamless steel tube. This is very good quality tube and I am sure just as good, if not better, than the steel used originally by Lagonda.

    bill
    10 February 2016 at 18:14 #51741

    David, I was a bit surprised by B99 confirming that a threaded insert was required. I certainly didnt need to use one on my car. I have checked my car today and the track rod threaded end went straight into the Lagonda track rod. Maybe there is another L/Rover TREnd that has the correct thread ?
    The only mod I needed was the thin walled cone to alter the Lagonda taper. When assembled it was necessary to take care that the TREnd did not “bottom” on the thin wall cone – common sense really.
    Steering on my car is lovely and light – except of course during parking when muscles are required !

    bill
    9 February 2016 at 10:09 #51735

    David, perhaps you could post the part number for other members as I cant seem to find my note at present. As long as the thread is the correct one for the Lagonda track rod then that will be the correct one. You will however also need the very thin walled taper “shim” to alter the Lagonda taper to the L/Rover one. Member B99 used to have these “in stock” !

    bill
    8 February 2016 at 09:30 #51732

    I have checked and in 2004 I contacted Ristes Motor Company of Nottingham. They still seem to be going. They seem to be mainly Rolls and Bentley but they told me they could get wheel discs for Lagonda. I think that I came to the conclusion that they would be getting them from Le Marr – but I may be wrong.
    They had made the “tooling” for discs for Rolls and Bentley – although I think that this was just a pattern in wood.
    They certainly had/have all the little bits that you need to put the discs together on the wire wheels. I bought the rubber extension leads from them.
    Hope this helps.

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 212 total)