Forum Replies Created
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Laurence
thanks for this – will check in the tool-holder for a similar little tool.
Will do more research before using brute ignorance to remove the wheel discs.
thanks!
Jeremy
I have the Ellard auction catalogue (which you may also have?) and your car is Lot 16, chassis 14122 (although Ellard seemed to swap around the engines/bodies so the numbers are not very reliable). Was green with red trim in 1984 and needing the restoration which you have obviously done – looks beautiful now! If you want a photocopy of the catalogue entry I will happily send to your home as shown in Lagonda register. Do you see the similarities with the Lagonda Tickford and Healey Tickford saloons?
This email works fine = spares@lagonda-club.com
However I also had some erratic service (emails lost or not answered), but when I spoke to Robin all was sorted out fine. His phone is still 01728 604040.
My comments are based on my experience at the end of January, just a couple of months ago.
Good luck!
take a look at this on ebay – is your picture like this?
David,
to answer your comment – “retaining screw looks a lot bigger than the hole I have” – the screw on this one is 1/8″ diameter using my ruler and nothing more precise.I have dismantled a different one from the one I photographed so that it is handed the same side as the one in your picture to make it easier to compare.
Hopefully the pictures tell the story – spring pops into the little hole, the part that you don’t have is held in place by the screw and is held in locked position by the spring. Press on the tab on this part, which compresses the spring and raises this part (off the post on the window frame) to release.
regards
David,
I think that I have the same quarter light catches on my V12 saloon.
The bit that is missing is the tab which you press down on, against a spring, to release the catch from the grooved peg in the frame.
I have taken a selection of pictures that show how it operates – picture 136 shows the locked position and 137 shows it opened by my finger pressing on the top tab. Pic 135 shows it from the rear and reveals where the spring fits in.
If you would like me to take one off and dismantle it for more detailed photographs of the components you only have to ask. It will of course cost you a pint of beer the next time we meet!
regards
It took a very firm tap to release it – more pressure than I would have applied without your advice – thanks.
Thanks – that is what I thought but it did not move with a little pressure. Will do what you recommend.
Colin,
you said … “This should produce a graph of percentage error vs ‘indicated speed’. Decide the error over the range – say 15%, then contact Speedograph Richfield http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/ and discuss your needs. They are very helpful and have told me they can make up a gearbox of a suitable ratio to fix most problems.”
I have had a gearbox made up to fix my (governor) speedo by Speedograph and it works fine, and is accurate as verified by my Road Angel satnav.
The process can be a bit easier – contact them/go to their website and get their form which asks you to measure car wheel revolutions by sticking tape on tyres and rolling it along your driveway then measuring distance, whilst your able assistant notes the number of speedo cable revolutions. Send off that completed form with your speedo and cable and it comes back with a small custom-made gearbox inserted into cable, that recalibrates it, and a relatively small invoice (about ?100 for me inc packing and tax).
Only remaining problem with speedo now is that it flickers up to 30mph then stabilises but I have learned to ignore that. No doubt when summer returns and Lagonda outings become more frequent, the flickery speedo will irritate me and I will strip down and clean and lubricate the cables and all will work perfectly.
regards
Peter,
other people should add their views but..
the factory drawing on P137 that you mention shows the rear pipes angled outwards at exactly the same degree as mine, although they are shorter and end at rear bumper. It also has the boxes in the same place as mine.
nothing more to add – good luck!
Peter,
now that I look at this properly I am not so sure about mine being accurate copy of original. The rear pipes protrude beyond the rear bumper, which is not the same as a 1960s picture of my car where the rear pipes ended under the rear bumper but just beyond the bodywork. obviously the new exhaust has been made with longer end pipes so that no sooty marks spoil the rear bumper and bodywork.anyway measurements are… pipe diameter 48mm, each box is 410 long by 130 diameter. there are four joint square flanges on each bank of exhausts excluding the one joining the manifold. so the sections are… manifold joint to first flange. box, second flange, long section, third flange, short curly section over rear axle, fourth flange, rear box. However it has been designed, this exhaust is very quiet.
the pipe ending is in photo. it is roughly parallel with the ground and points outwards from the car – I have put my broomstick in line with the rear bodywork so that you can see the angle. Again this looks inconsistent with other photos of V12 saloons but mine is Freestone and Webb coachwork so may be different from Lagonda bodied V12s.
hope this helps to add to your confusion
Alistair
Peter,
just setting off with my camera. I realised that my previous message was ambiguous. there are two silencer boxes per side, so four silencer boxes in total.
will post photos later
Peter,
I just sent a detailed reply but the pictures which I attached have crashed my computer. So I will write it again.
My V12 saloon had a new stainless steel exhaust around 8 years ago before I bought the car. Since the car is very original and any other work on it has copied the original, I assume that the exhaust copies the one it replaced. it would have to be very similar shape in order to fit through and round the chassis. it has two silencer boxes – and it would have been a much simpler exhaust to design, make and fit if it had only had one box, so I assume that two is the correct original fitting.
I climbed into the pit this morning to photograph each box for you. if you want other angles of picture just tell me,
regards
Peter,
congratulations on getting this forum started.
The Jackall system on my V12 is incomplete – it looks as though some parts have been removed with a hammer. I was going to leave it, but now I have read your posting and the replies it has motivated me to consider getting it all working. Could you please forward me the “photocopy of several pages ” that you mentioned and any other pictures that can help me to identify what is missing from my car, so that I can estimate the size of the task ahead of me.
(My wife might now decide that this forum is not such a good idea!)
Thanks