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Oops, forgot to mention they are 16//80 drums.
AlecNice card! I’ll put it in my wallet on top of my (ugly) P.Eng card… ;<]
AlecThe celluloid sheet is softened in an acetone/water mix and becomes like a sheet of rubber. As far as I can figure from the linked videos, some kind of glue is applied to the item to be covered. Out of curiosity I went looking for black sheet celluloid a while back, but came up empty. Apparently it is very flammable and with all the newer plastics around is not used much anymore.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYsSifiDapo around i minute inhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FAl9DZKgCQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yW9l–AM7UAAlec
A wild guess, but it looks like it could be an advance/retard system that is attached to the dynamo and should have points and a distributor mounted to it. I believe there is also a magneto on the other side of the engine (I’m not familiar with M45 details…) so the car could run without this working. There is a photo in this ad that seems to show this device.
http://www.fantasyjunction.com/cars/1208-Lagonda-M45%20Tourer-4.5%20Litre%20Inline%20Six-Cylinder
AlecSteering gear bracket location? My 16/80 has one there. Y our frame looks really good!
AlecMy 16/80 was built in the latter part of 1932 and every original bolt I’ve looked at so far was machined from bar stock.
In addition, the bolt heads and nuts are thicker than the modern BSF standard. The bolt heads have a flat face where they contact the part, not the washer face you typically see on modern bolts. The nuts are also only chamfered on the outer face. The chamfers are also considerably smaller compared to modern bolts and nuts. The bolt lengths seem to be tailored for each spot – I don’t find the standard 1″, 1.25″ etc lengths, but instead lengths like 1.08″ or 1.19″, for example. And finally, just to make life even more difficult, the lock washers (which are the split type) are thinner than the standard modern ones. The “light” variety, which are not that easy to find, are a pretty good match.
There are also a number of BSW fasteners, and they have the prewar big heads and nuts.
I initially bought a bunch of BSF fasteners thinking I could use them as necessary, but they stand out like a sore thumb when you mix them in with the originals. So I machine up my own fasteners, using a larger size SAE grade 5 bolt as raw material. The nuts I make from 1215 free-machining steel.
I know this is a bit OCD but it definitely sharpens up the machining skills!
Barry – I haven’t painted the frame yet. I’ve been using industrial-grade rattle cans for the bracketry and smaller components.
AlecI looked into this a while back (celluloid coating). Found some information in a video about making accordions. I can’t locate that exact video but it had to do with soaking the celluloid in an acetone-water solution to soften it. Here is a shorter clip -see minute 1:00
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYsSifiDapo
Anyway, I couldn’t find a source of black celluloid sheet, so it’s interesting hearing about other options!
Alec|It seems to be a copy of this car.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hispano-Suiza_H6#/media/File:HS_1924_Tulipwood_sx.jpgSpeaking of FPK550 (or misuse of this registration)
http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/162188,12699/1939-Lagonda-Rapide-Tulipwood-Boattail-Racer_photo.aspxFollowing up on this thread, I refurbished some levers by brazing steel plugs into the worn holes, milling them flush and then redrilling the holes to the correct diameter and location. Pictures attached (I hope). Also made a new cross-shaft as well, but that’s a different story!
AlecIt just occurred to me that the engine designer might have chosen to use the two-stroke type magneto (MN6 3/4) and run it at half the speed that a MN6 would need. I checked the club’s Vintage Lagonda Handbook, and it does state that the 3 litres did use the MN6 3/4 magnetos and that they run at 3/4 engine speed.
AlecMy reprint of a Scintilla manual notes that the magnetos deliver two sparks per rev, so a six cylinder magneto has to be driven at 1.5 times engine speed. It also notes that for engines working on a two stroke cycle, twice as many sparks per revolution have to be delivered. They therefore made magnetos marked MN4 1/2, GN4 1/2, MN6 3/4, and GN6 3/4 with 4 sparks per rev, so they can be driven at the same engine speed as the conventional magnetos on four stroke engines. I suppose you could run one of these special magnetos on a four stroke – you would adding a spark just as the exhaust stroke was finishing, which I don’t think would do any harm.
The gearing inside the magneto is to match the magneto speed to the distributing rotor, so it would be 2:1 on a four cylinder and 3:1 on a six.
I’m getting this information from the manual – I don’t have a PN6 to look at as my car has a more modern Fairbanks-Morse.
AlecHi Richard;
According to Davey and May’s book, the factory decided to call the 16/80 the “Special Six”. The chassis and engine numbers are prefixed with an “S”, probably explaining the term “S type”. So no, it doesn’t indicate a special version of the model. Nice cars, but I’m of course prejudiced!
AlecLaurence;
I once dealt with a stuck caliper piston by removing the caliper from its mounting, then pumping the brake pedal until the piston was pushed out of the cylinder. I think something similar would work for you if you removed the drum and shoes from one wheel at a time, then pumped enough to get the piston moving. This assumes your master cylinder is still operational!
Alec
