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Bonnet release access, if your bonnet release assembly is jammed or rusted.
I thought I should include this tip now, before I move onto more interesting parts of the car.
To remove the small square section of dash-board which holds the clock and electric window switches in place.
Firstly, remove the dash-board glove box wooden cover, this is held in place by five screws to piano hinge at bottom and two screws for side sliding hinge assembly.
Next remove the two screws to left hand side edge of square section of dash-board and a small ferrule with ball bearing which can be twisted out and removed with pliers), then very carefully twisting to take off. These are accessible only when glove box wooden cover is removed.
. The top of the bonnet release mechanism can now be pulled towards you and the bonnet should release. [An old picture when this was first accessed is shown].
A couple of images of the boot lock and key and also door lock with key.
After re-assembling them and checking the keys work smoothly, I will be taking the locks apart again, to get the top signed Yale face plate re-chromed.
There is a fair degree of wear to the chrome and they have not polished up very well.
I don’t plan to put any of these locks back on the car until it is finished, but will be nice to put back on fully restored units.
Peter hi
I was comparing the prices of the 2.6 litre drophead from 1951 with the 3.0 litre 4-door from 1955, these were very nice cars, requiring some work, but not lots, to be driveable and enjoyed…
I wasn’t comparing a nuts and bolts restoration LG45 with these two cars, see above., that is comparing chalk with cheese (your choice !). (The LG45 was at H & H by the way, along with a nut and bolt 2.6 liter dhc which made good money).
Supposedly the 2.6 litre dhc engine had never run more than 30 minutes and the radiator had not been in the car for over 35 years. I believe nothing with old engines, unless you see it running in front of you…
Restoration costs for an LG45 car are in a different league and I agree, that with LG45 and other pre-war cars, it is possibly a better proposition to start with a running car, but you had better pick carefully of course, no doubt all of them have plenty of faults !
Many thanks for this contact, they are making another set of 12 wheel embellishers and hub cap in the next 6-8 weeks. I have put my name down for a set.
If anyone is looking to buy a set, would suggest that you contatc them shortly.
Total cost is 320 pounds for four wheels.
The very nice 3.0 litre 1955 4-door made 20,700 pounds
The 2.6 litre 1951 drop head also in nice order, made slightly more at 22,425 pounds.
Personally, I rated these two cars as good value at these prices, the 3.0 litre 4-door was the one to buy, I have plenty of pictures of both if anyone is interested.
They required only a small amount of work and were very clean and well cared for, good signs.
Interesting to compare these prices to the H&H price for a 2.6 litre requiring an extensive restoration at 17k ish.
Clearly, where you put the car to sell with provincial auctions makes a big difference on the final price.
This car sold for a shade under 30,000 pounds.
The car sold for 27,500 including buyers premium and VAT about right for one of these cars needing a full restoration.
This car sold for a substantial 17,160 pounds including buyers premium; but came with the bonus of a barely run in engine fitted by AM in 1967; the option to buy the original engine as well.
A strong price for a drop head 2.6 litre needing lots of work!
Your front suspension looks fabulous, please post some more pictures when assembled on your car.
Who did you use to do the work for you, in terms of shot blasting and powder coating ?
What a lovely clean work-shop as well.
We don’t have slaves here, only two willing assistants, paid of course with the right sort of money – chocolate!
I will wait for the right GB plate to come along, a shame that they don’t make it without the oval plate. Saw this one and it really captures the style of the 1950’s and 60’s.
I am actually now only after the chromed hub caps, my trims are being clean by my two assistants on the kitchen table as I write. I have replied to this on the right topic thread.
I thought you had a GB plate already, or was it not useable ??
Christian,
What was the quality of the hub caps like from this company, and how much did they charge ??
Simon
Christian good work,
I missed a good auction for 4 unused wheel trims:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110892441992?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649
See this pictures, like new and sold for 46 pounds with partial original Ace box, I will be more careful in future..
They were manufactured by Cornercraft of Coventry who also manufactured other forms of wheel embellishers as well.
Mine are good, but need a fair bit of elbow grease to get the shine back on them, will have to pass them to one of my two assistants for polishing..
Ideally, I would like to find four replacement chrome hub covers, mine all require re-chroming, any suggestions for these.
But the GB plate with simple oval surround, is a hard one to find, and will keep looking, I don’t want a full oval plate, just plain and simple as yours is.
I note that they were an optional extra on MGA’s, MG Y type, Wolsey, etc etc
Looks like a 1950’s advert, and this was a fair bit of money of money to spend on this extra…
This is the best I have found, after sifting through piles of rubbish..
Still not that impressed with these either!
This is the closest, but does not appear to be for sale:
http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/GBletters.htm
Another possibilty, but none of them with the oval surround:
http://www.classic-car-accessories.com/accessories/
I believe these were made by a company called Ace based in the Midlands, who also made wheel trims as well amongst other items.
Picture of 147 attached showing same slide system, and with walnut dash.
Same on 120, 148 and 155 and I believe also on 129
Would be nice to know what the feature is on cars before say 120 ?
I am curious to know what other variantx, David had noted for the choke/mixture adjuster and where they are located ??