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Brasso / T-Cut work very well on Bakelite and dried sticky stuff. Just my experience…I cannot take responsibility for any damage caused…etc etc do a test bit first
Here’s a picture of my dash as it is at the moment, the switches in question are mounted into the lower curved panel not on a separate plate. The lower panels on mine are red leatherette – I was planning to re-cover in red leather…
Most of the electrics are fairly straight forwards but the circuit for the interior lights is a real pain as each courtesy light is controlled by three different switches, I’ve spent two days just following wires!
Thanks Simon, that’s very useful – I have exactly those additional switches / knobs which may means that they are original? Would fog lights be mentioned on the build sheet (not mentioned on mine) and why remove them so soon I wonder? I don’t think they look very nice personally.
Was 138 black originally?
The Rapide is a key part of AML’s development during a golden era, and, it is intimately linked to DB himself. If you want a super rare and exclusive 1960’s Aston which has the wow factor then ?180k is probably a bargain. It wasn’t that long ago that you could get a Rapide for not too much (comparatively), this is exactly what people said about DB5’s in the mid 1980’s too – the Rapides time has come…
The other thing to bear in mind (as has been mentioned), is the time and cost of restoration. 3000 hours is about what I’ve spent (so far) and it still hasn’t come cheap either. It has to be worth at least ?100k just to cover the costs.
I like those – very nice!
As I remember the cam sprockets are individually adjustable, this is partly to take into account the chain stretching over time resulting in the relative distance between each camshaft increasing. I think this tool must lock two cams into the correct position, then the sprockets can be loosened and the chain set to the correct tension using the top tensioner.
It also allows the cams to be adjusted relative to the crank for the timing.
ASD sell much nicer versions than my hand made one.
There are quite a few similarities between the Rapide and Humber Imperial / Super snipe…
I’m now after the chrome surrounds which go at the base of the lock pins…
Thank you Tim, not many people would know that!
Thank you for doing this, I hope to contribute some more material soon to help make up for it.
Thanks Ray and Tim. I gave the colour a great deal of thought and had a few sample panels produced – the final choices were Cumberland Grey and the original Snow Shadow Grey.
Snow Shadow Grey is slightly pearlescent so it tends to reflect it’s surroundings, it can sometimes look more silver or blue or green. I was worried it would be too light for the chrome but I’m really pleased with the result.
Hi Ray, I’m here and well, thanks for the compliments!
I’ve had a break from the car while it’s been in the body shop in which time I’ve edited the repair blogs and hope to re-do them once the car is complete.
Here are some photos of my car recently back;
Thanks for advice Ray, very helpful.
David, did you once mentioned something about the seal which runs around the gutter in the engine bay? I was thinking that the original seal could be swapped for a low profile finisher instead, this would create quite a large gap for the warm air to escape out of…?
I went for metalastic, when it’s new it’s pretty stiff. I updated to aluminium on my TR4 but I couldn’t honestly say if it felt much different as I also fitted polybushes to the suspension at the same time… In theory it should make the steering a bit tighter.
Thanks for your input, much easier not to paint!