Forum Replies Created
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In response to the first entry in this chain:-
If you would like to send me your contact information via this forum’s Members / Write email facility I will give your requirement a mention in The Lagonda Club’s monthly Gazette. Or, if you would like to join The Club you can place a wanted advert. in the Newsletter. I’m bound to say neither of which will increase your chance of success by much – as Simon and Tony indicate, these are scarce items – but perhaps by a little. Good luck.
MartinThe petrol / oil changeover switch is ( normally ) an unengraved black push button switch. ( Lucas pt. no. 31295 ) Its standard position on the 2.6 is at about 4 o’clock with respect to the ignition / lighting switch. However, if the car is a very early chassis, say prior to LAG/49/20, then we have seen cars with the relative positions of the switches different from the norm. A dismantled and put back together car may also have them in the wrong place.
Attached is a switch picture that could help? Regards, MartinPS. Perhaps I should add: it’s a momentary action switch not intended to be operated once the engine is running!
You are welcome.
The solution might be easier than you think. I suggest looking at the screw connections at the back of the petrol/oil level changeover switch. The green with black tracer wire from the terminal block for the sender signal should normally attach to this switch, not directly to the gauge. If it is there and you can see one unused screw terminal on the switch then I think the dashboard restorers probably left off the short (green with brown tracer) wire from the switch to the gauge.
Of course, there’s no reason why you shouldn’t run a new wire directly from terminal block to gauge if you prefer but the solution above may save you time.
I agree about the fading wire colours – it makes these jobs harder!
Regards, Martin1. If this is a 2.6 then the attached picture shows the connector block. It is Inside the boot, on the left, high up, just forward from the fuel filler pipe. It is normally out of sight behind the side aluminium cover. It is a Lucas part, their no: 37082.
2. The sender unit fits into the tank at the top, left, front corner of the tank – not far from the connector block so the wire is quite short. To access the sender you have to remove the boot/trunk flooring.
If your car is a 3 Litre then part 1 does not apply. Regards, MartinHi Ken,
The car in Hong Kong I referred to has now been identified and the Club magazine article has been located ( no. 93, Winter ’76 – a bit later than I had thought.) Unfortunately there are no pictures or diagrams, just a written description. I will try to fit the entire disc brakes section into the April Gazette but to quickly summarise, the front disc parts this owner used were ex. Jaguar S type. The other interesting thing is that he fitted discs to the rear as well – doesn’t specifically say if these too were Jaguar. Also twin master cylinders were subsequently installed. One for the initially fitted front calipers and rear calipers and the second for an additional set of calipers at the front! He replaced the factory servo unit with a Girling one from a Commer Bantam commercial. Seems like an awful lot of work to me. I agree with Simon’s comments that a modification along the lines of Robin Allum’s 3 Litre is the way to go. For real excitement you should try a panic stop in a servo-less 2.6 with its narrower shoes and drums!
MartinHi Peter,
My cars are 2.6 and I never had this symptom so I cannot point you to any trick. Have you performed the adjustment of the rear shoes which should automatically adjust the hand brake correctly? I.e. turn the micram adjuster clockwise until the shoes are in full contact with the drum and then back it off one click. This is best done with each side jacked up in turn to rotate the wheel / half-shaft / drum.
Does the 3Litre have an inspection flap in the boot floor to view / maintain the differential / rear brakes? If so, having a friend operate the handbrake while you look at the two levers attached to the wheel cylinders might provide a clue.
The hand brake cable does have an adjusting nut but that is factory set. Unless that has been disturbed during a rebuild this shouldn’t be the cause. Severe binding and distortion of the cable might be a rare cause – I doubt it ….. nevertheless don’t forget the oil nipple half way along the cable!
Finally, a rolling road brake test should show what is going on. It’s possible to have a good feel on the foot brake pedal but less than normal efficiency of the rear brakes due to some issue with shoes / drums / locating or pull-off springs.
Regards, MartinHi Simon,
It’s somewhat irrelevant as this eBay sale has ended but these doors and boot do not appear to be from a 2.6, unless from some one-off special. They are unlike those on either of my saloons. 2.6 doors, front and rear, hinge on the central pillar resulting in the door handle holes far away from each other. Also the boot isn’t even like my DHC’s, which differs appreciably from the saloon. No doubt the successful bidder knew from the pictures that he or she needed them !
Nevertheless, it’s good to know that another person is browsing the internet sites for items for our cars. I try to do so frequently but it’s easy for the days / weeks to go by and miss something. Last year I got a radiator for my worst 2.6, which didn’t have one, from eBay. Parts are still around, thank goodness.
Regards, MartinHi Tim,
I notice that the hadbook also specifically refers to the wheel chock and stresses how important its use is.
I suspect your list is 100%, or close to, of what a purchaser of a new car would have found in the boot. Thank you for assistance, it’s appreciated. I will now search through my BSF spanner collection for any Garrington, Magpie or King Dick examples. I’m bound to slightly doubt the “Girling” tin as the 2.6L and 3L Lagondas used Lockheed braking systems.
I have been trying to find my notes relating to the introduction of the Jackall system. Essentially it was employed on the 3Litre cars and not on the 2.6s. But, I seem to remember that it could have been introduced in ’53 on the 2.6 Mk II and maybe even a few cars before?Regards,
MartinHi Tim,
Many thanks for taking the trouble to post these pictures. I’d quite forgotten the stowage locations for tools on the DB2. Efficient use of available space!
Meanwhile, club member Antony Bowie, who isn’t a member of this forum but who owns a quite exceptional and original 2.6 saloon sent me the attached pictures. Antony makes the following comments / observations: items are not guaranteed original but they have been with the car since 1960. Wheelbrace in the first picture is likely to be a later replacement. Wheelbrace in the second picture which wasn’t presently in his car, may well be the correct type. It fits the tool roll and was amongst his other spare parts. Wheel chock might be original? Spanners: to quote Antony “There are a number of odd spanners, a plug box spanner, and a pair of pliers but they are all from different manufacturers (where stated) and so I am not sure what could be considered original (the only one that may be is a Jenbro ).” The 2-legged jack, of course, isn’t original. The 2.6 one has 3 legs.
Even if nothing more comes to light I believe there’s enough information here for me to put something reasonably authentic in the boot.Regards, Martin
Hi Tim,
Thanks for your reply. I have to admit that I hadn’t thought about investigating the DB2, etc., aspect of this. Neither had I thought of the drain tap tool – I can see that being a `must have` item! I wonder if the kit contained a small grease gun which other cars of the period, e.g Sunbeam-Talbot, definitely had. I will contact a couple of DB2 owners I know to see if they perhaps have an original kit for their cars.
Regards,
MartinPeter,
I am sure that by now you will have solved this difficulty on your car but this reply might be of use to someone still restoring a 3Litre. A DB3L may have one of three wiper motors – original fitting was a model DR1 75183 very early cars then DR1 75236. Lucas stopped supporting this model after 1958 and the supersession was a model DR3 75311 (plus a modified mounting bracket 745997.) All were 120 degree sweep and all operated with the model PRS5 wiper switch (31302, early cars, then 31448). The attached diagram is for the DR3 replacement which I suspect many cars will have. For cars with an original DR1 then perhaps using the Lagonda handbook’s wiring diagram in conjunction with the attached may still be helpful.Martin
A minor correction to my last entry – apologies – the cut-out in the cap is just to match the semi-circle at the top of the distributor body, not for the low tension terminal. That exits the distributor lower down ! Martin
I realise this is a little late but I have just joined. I had a Lucas parts business till 1988 and have kept much documentation. For anyone searching for a cap at autojumbles etc., in the future, the following may help. Our distributors on the 2.6/3L ( either 40125A/D, 40125E/F or 40264A/B – all general model DVXH6A ) all used a 417178 cap.
Unfortunately Lucas produced this cap and two others with only a different orientation of cut-out for the LT terminal without any part numbers on them. To identify a 417178 hold the cap upside down with the coil lead outlet at 12o’clock, the LT terminal post cut-out should be at 2o’clock. (Use of the other caps, 415708 and 407279 result in the leads pointing the wrong way.) Not many other cars used “our” cap; Morris MS Six and maybe a Standard.
I have presumed that the searcher could distinguish this group of three from other caps. Can submit picture if needed? Martin