Forum Replies Created
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Just to comment on Rogers observation about closing the pipe off (with a non return valve).
The valve as fitted to my 2L simply retains a head of oil in the pump i.e. it cannot run back into the sump.
Once the pump turns and draws the head of oil this immediately opens the valve so oils draws normally from sump to pump. It has no effect on oil pressure to my knowledge.
To add my two pennorth…
I lost oil pressure on my 2L after standing despite having a fully rebuilt engine and oil pump. Also when the engine had been working hard climbing long hills, when I stopped and didnt leave the car to cool I could occasionally have the same problem getting oil pressure on start up.
The answer was an 18mm central heating non return valve for about £8 if I recall. If you think of the aggressive chemicals introduced into heating systems it can easily cope with oil. Been on the car for 12yrs or more with instant oil pressure.
Hi Bill,
I am currently building up my sanction 1 engine and have recently done exactly the same as you in taking the top cover off and seeking to identify the purpose of the ‘turret’. Here are my findings from observation of a stripped engine and making a call to more knowledgable Lagonda owners than me!
The turret is part of the crankcase not the block. With the engine inverted (head off) and the sump removed it is evident the main oil pipe from the oil fiter loops over (under when upright) the crankshaft and feeds directly into the base of the turret. From here the oil fills the main oil gallery that runs the length of the crankcase and feeds the main/big end and camshaft bearings and rocker gear.
The flow of oil from pump via filter would be such as to fill the turret providing a ‘head’ of oil above the the main oil gallery. My belief is that Meadows realised the sump design (oil pump and pick up at the rear) would lead to occasional oil surge on heavy braking robbing the pump of oil. However, the turret full of oil sitting above the main gallery would keep the gallery full and a supply of oil would be maintained to the bearings until the pump gets its supply back. Davids manual states that no harm will be done if oil pressure (after heavy braking) returns within a few seconds and that is probably because the turret has done its job.
As regards to whether there should be a gauze filter inside the turret, I understand on the earlier (M45) Meadows there was a ‘basket filter’ in the turret, probably when the oil filtration system was an Autoclean. With the improved filtration of the LG45 it was I believe omitted and most early cars fitted with upgraded filtration during a rebuild have it omitted. I have never read anything about routine maintenance of the turret or ‘basket flter’ so assume when fitted it was assumed it would be cleaned when the engine was stripped for repair which as we know was quite a regular occurence in the 1930s
I hope the above makes sense and I welcome correction by those more knowledgeable than myself
Best Regards
Mark (Y2)
I was advised by John Batt in 1999 to use stainless rod. Been on my 2 Litre now for 25 years
with seemingly no detrimental effect over the rusted mild steel originals.
When dirty just wipe off with a WD40 soaked cloth!
Hi Andrew
I have never heard of this problem before, the usual issue is small pin holes forming on the top of the tank caused by years of condensation and rusting from the inside. You then get petrol stains down the tank from where it sweats in hot weather. I have had rivets leak but that was on repair section to the base of the tank fitted 0ver 50 years ago. The solution from my tank man was to clean off and resolder the rivets. So if yours was a leak from the rivets which have been replaced and soldered you shouldn’t have a problem anymore. After all these years if there was a weakness from the positive fixing of the tank it would be well known. So I would stay with the positive mounting and not risk drilling out the mounting for silent block bushes as it may just weaken those brackets.
Hello David
The original radi0 specified for the LG45 by Lagonda was a Phillips model. It fitted on the far right of the dashboard and the control dial was the same diameter as the circular gauge to its left. The valve box fitted into the space between the two bulkhead battery boxes quite neatly.
I have spent a lot of years trying to track one of these original radios down. I managed to photograph one at an automobilia auction some years back (but forgot to bid when it came up!) and can email you those photos if they may help. I also have the original sales brochure for my car which came from the original owners family. In the back of this brochure is the fragile leaflet showing the radio and its installation. Again I can let you have a copy. My details are at Y2 in the Register. Regards Mark
Hi Hans
There isn’t as far as I know a data sheet specific to the 2 Litre engine.
David Hine’s Vintage Lagonda Handbook has some general information covering
the 2L 3L and 16/80 engines.The radiator capacity is around 2 gallons (16 pints) but not 100% certain.
If you haven’t yet found a 2 Litre wiring diagram drop me an email and I will
seek to scan the best one I have.Best regards
Mark Y (Y2 in the 2018 Register)Hi Edward,
This is not uncommon on the 2 Litre and is why the chassis tensioner was installed on the LC in period
when the issue showed up when racing.So after 90 years of metal fatigue I doubt it is anything you have done in reassembling your car.
You simply do not know what it has been through over all those years.The chassis can be repaired but will probably involve you doing some stripping down to get at it.
My advice would be to contact the VSCC library or use their forum to get a recommendation on a specialist
chassis repairer. There are a few around. then send them photographs.Do post on the forum what solution you eventually find
Best Regards
Mark YHi Adrian,
If you still need the information give me a call next week when I am back from holiday and I will
check both my LG45 scintilla’s and spare scintilla’s in my loft and photograph both.Best Reards
Mark Y
(Y2 in the club register)