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Having read nearly all the previous posts regarding 2 Ltr oil pressure and lack thereof, I feel it is time I fitted a non-return valve to my 2 Ltr. Whilst oil pressure is good at 40 psi when cold, leaving the car for any prolonged period results in “zero” oil pressure upon start up; that is until I pour a pint down the pressure relief valve hole to prime the system. Hence the need for the non-return valve.
I have found what looks like a suitable valve from Demon Tweeks. Picture attached (if the upload routine works !) Anyone used one of these before and will it work.
Next question, best place to locate this, both from a technical point of view (maintaining the best oil flow) and practical point of view (minimal invasive surgery).
All/any words of wisdom/advice gratefully received.
No knowledge of the 2 Litre, but in the absence of other replies! Priming doesn’t appear to be a normal procedure, and what you propose is curing the symptom, not the cause. It could be something is loose, cracked or worn, meaning that the pump has to cope with more air than oil than it was designed for, with your oil addition providing sufficient seal for pressure to build. Problems unattended don’t improve, they get worse, so I suggest you investigate further …. worn gears in the pump would be the first place I’d check.
Laurence
Hello Howard,
This is where my non-return valve is fitted (assuming you can see the photo). The lettering is notes to myself to remind me to remove the gauze filter by separating the pipe where shown. This, I have found, is the easiest place with my set-up, causing fewest leaks (oil out and/or air in) after disturbing the system.
I get almost instant oil pressure on start-up, including after a four month winter lay-up.
After an oil-only oil change, pressure rises quickly, but after an oil change with gauze filter removal (i.e. the non-return valve gets removed and emptied), some priming of the pump is preferred.
Although I didn’t fit the non-return valve, I’m so pleased the car has one.
Hope it goes well for you.
Barry
Howard,
I’m not convinced my photo was sent with my email.
Here’s another attempt.
Barry
I fitted one of these to my 2 litre some years ago. The result was that oil pressure went through the roof and caused no end of leaks, so I removed it. The relief valve recirculates the oil, it doesn’t return it direct to the sump. Without the non-return valve I think there is sufficient capacity in the pipe direct from the sump to allow the pressure to drop. Close the pipe off and there is nowhere for the pressure to go except up!. I think Laurence is right, and the non return valve compensates for a pump that is worn or porous. I only have to prime the system after an oil change, on both my 2 litres. Having said that, I do have a pump that works very well on the bench (great flow of oil) but will not work on the car even after priming. It looks to be in good condition, but there is obviously something amiss.
Roger
To add my two pennorth…
I lost oil pressure on my 2L after standing despite having a fully rebuilt engine and oil pump. Also when the engine had been working hard climbing long hills, when I stopped and didnt leave the car to cool I could occasionally have the same problem getting oil pressure on start up.
The answer was an 18mm central heating non return valve for about £8 if I recall. If you think of the aggressive chemicals introduced into heating systems it can easily cope with oil. Been on the car for 12yrs or more with instant oil pressure.
Just to comment on Rogers observation about closing the pipe off (with a non return valve).
The valve as fitted to my 2L simply retains a head of oil in the pump i.e. it cannot run back into the sump.
Once the pump turns and draws the head of oil this immediately opens the valve so oils draws normally from sump to pump. It has no effect on oil pressure to my knowledge.
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