Forum Replies Created
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“Normal” jets on my LG6’s HV5 carburetters, with a drilled fork at the base for choke lever attachment … the “Invicta” type has a screw there instead, to which is a knurled nut for jet height adjustment. These are generally fitted to downdraft SU carburetters with Thermo electric choke apparatus … thus my V12 has these jets.
Laurence
Hi Peter,
I can’t tell if your distributor is original, other than it’s circular case suggests it’s prewar. That said, the points, rotor arm and condenser are all certainly more recent manufacture.
Your rotor arm “contact” would have had a tail, that has been cut off. Rotor arms where the “contact” is fixed by a brass rivet are known to be suspect, so I would certainly replace that. Especially if it is made by PARK …. my LG6 got through two of those very quickly, burnt right through. The condenser again is a modern replacement. You need to be very careful buying ignition parts such as these, coil, and distributor cap. Much of what is currently sold, even if Lucas branded, is very poor quality and prone to (very) premature failure. You are better off buying genuine NOS items, or even proven working used (my LG6 was running happily on its original genuine Lucas rotor arm after the PARK joke items). Otherwise, buy from “Distributor Doctor”, who only sells proven quality components.
The points are commonly available, Lucas 420197, DSB116, DSB116C. If you’re going to this year’s AG, I have a spare NOS set you can have for half the going rate, say £7. Let me know if interested and I’ll bring them with me.
Laurence
Your existing tap can probably be restored fairly easily. You will need to drain your coolant, but only down to just below the level of the tap … draining from the tap itself would be ideal. Assuming a standard vintage pattern tap, dismantle by straightening and pulling out the split pin, then remove the washer, spring and shaped collar … note this detrmines which way the tap turns, so note/photo its position before removal. The handle can now be withdrawn, revealing that it has a conical seating, which you will probably find a tad scored, hence the leak. Cut a small piece of fine grade emery paper, wrap it around the cone, abrasive inwards, then re-insert it in the tap body and rotate back and forth. Do this until you have a smooth unmarked surface. Now turn the emery and repeat, so that the tap body surface is similarly treated. Now remove the emery paper, and repeat, but using toothpaste as the grinding medium. Rinse clean, and reassemble. Do check the spring, if, perhaps through rust, it has lost tension, it will need retensioning or replacement … the assembly needs to be held together reasonably firmly, otherwise it will still leak. Hope this helps.
Laurence
In the absence of specific responses, I suggest you check the range of rubber extrusions available on C O H Baines website. They are very helpful, and also happy to send you sample pieces so that you can see how well or otherwise each pattern will suit. If you have a remnant of the original seal, that will help you narrow down the selection.
Laurence
I can’t help with what linkage runs from where, other than presumably it must connect to the same linkage to the GN6. You should have a bracket similar to pictured below, plus a similar type with an arm for attaching the control rod, both clamping to the mounting spigot of the Vertex. The one pictured is a spare so available if yours is missing.
Laurence
You’re welcome. Might be worth contacting Mr Jones (Alun) advertising a 2 Litre on this site, recall he was the proprietor, or at least involved with, Wessex Workshops.
Thanks, but top rail already remade, by Western Coachworks, handy as they were close to Derby Plating, which saved logistical issues.
Laurence
To answer your question … I tried to contact Wessex Workshops last year, as I knew of their expertise in windscreen frames, and my V12’s screen top rail was discovered to have multiple fatigue cracks (unreal). Typically, I discovered they had ceased trading a couple of months before. Whilst we respect firms that make such products, it would be really helpful if they specified what wear-prone parts they have used, so that one can source those should that be necessary.
Laurence
Hi David,
Prompted by that I recalled I had photos of mine already! Here it is amongst some of my other V12 tools. Hope these help.
Thank you also DCW, looks like my fears were unfounded!
Laurence
Pending my own photos, here is an image of someon else’s V12 toolkit. Note some items are not original, but it does include the jack handle, top centre, to the right of the aluminium cone. Note it still has its rubber grip.
Laurence
Hi David,
The tube is 18″ long, with an OD of 0.685″ through most of its length, but where it engages with the jack spigot, it is flared slightly, to 0.687″. The wall thickness is around 0.055″. Whatever, the tube needs to be a snug fit on your jack spigot … mine is 0.556″ OD. The flaring evident is fairly likely to have been a result of misuse over the years, I suspect! There would originally have been a rubber grip on the handle; Robin Cooke advised me that one from a Halfords Polyjack” would fit. My tube was originally nickel plated, and the nickel plating is in slightly better condition for the top 4″, which indicates the length of the grip.
I will take photos in the next few days and email to you if too problematic to download here.
Laurence
If it’s the same as the (DWS) system on the V12 & LG6, it’s simply a piece of steel tube. Let me know if so, and I’ll measure mine.
Laurence
No knowledge of the 2 Litre, but in the absence of other replies! Priming doesn’t appear to be a normal procedure, and what you propose is curing the symptom, not the cause. It could be something is loose, cracked or worn, meaning that the pump has to cope with more air than oil than it was designed for, with your oil addition providing sufficient seal for pressure to build. Problems unattended don’t improve, they get worse, so I suggest you investigate further …. worn gears in the pump would be the first place I’d check.
Laurence
A consideration would also have been the extra rigidity to the body framing provided by the absence of a door opening.
Laurence
To add, I’ve just emailed photo of my plates to you …assume your email address remains the same.
Laurence
Hi David,
Hmm, the photo requirements on this site make uploading very difficult! Hopefully this will be improved; as things stand, we are pretty much denied showng photos, which is not really acceptable.
I’ve recently had my V12’s “Coachwork by LAGONDA” plates rechromed; there is a fair chance they are the same dimensions … although you can’t be sure of anything in the world of Staines.
25mm wide, 151mm long, 0.84 mm thick, mounting hole centre 137mm.
Hope this helps
Laurence