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Alec is right, have edited my previous
It also occurs to me that when re-assembling each half-shaft it is important to align the splines so that the UJ yokes at each end are parallel to each other (and not “out” by one or more splines)
In the beginning, AML chose an “ordinary” grease but after repeated half-shaft failures under warranty they got in Hardy-Spicer for a design review, who immediatley spotted that the designed geometry of the shafts was not perpendicular to the plane of wheel rotation, which causes uneven peak loading on the splines which the “ordinary” grease couldn’t cope with. Hence the change to graphite grease. Your call re Moly grease though
You might want to consult others but my recollection is high graphite content for extreme pressure applications; it’s almost black in colour
I’m considering 4 mods to my car for reduced-stress continental touring in due course: 1. full flow oil cooler under the front valence; 2. electric fan in front of radiator; 3. small high volume extractor fans in the wing vents, or as minimum 1 on the exhaust side; 4. modified bonnet (my spare) to give it a “flip tail” vent. Or all the above!
Heat management in the Rapide can be a real issue, especially when stationary in traffic, becasue air flow is minimal and the side wing vents are blocked by servos etc. So the under bonnet area acts as a heat accumulator. During recent trips I have driven the car with the bonnet up on the first catch which enables hot air to exit at the base of the windscreen and this does seem to make a difference. So finding an exit for the hot air is just as important as fitting an addirional fan.
Also I’ve been trying to work out how an electric fan in a TR4 can add 10bhp to the engine output, but can’t make the maths work! Given that an electric fan which draws say 30 amps is less than a half horsepower device.I have 2 fans on my other car, the thermostat for the electric one is in the top hose and there is also a manual override switch. Personally I wouldn’t fit only an electric fan to a Rapide because it will always be on!
I guess that’s why I had a fairly substantial labour bill. I was told it was a couple of days to disassemble
Have just collected my car, amazing transformation in the rear; quiet, smoother, more compliant over rough surfaces.Also now sits level.
Mystery?? How so?
Sorry Christian, I can’t visualise the bushes you mean.My recent bill of parts includes 4 new off the shelf DB4 bushes – part number not quoted but about ?50 each plus VAT from ASD – which were then modified (but in what way am not sure).
Are the rear arm bushes not from a DB4 (20-26-118) or am I misinterpreting which component you’re referring to (like 20-23-120??)
Ah yes sorry should have mentioned their weight; on your rating, take care with the differential because it is VERY VERY heavy! (70-80kg plus at a guess)
Christian, I don’t know how the geometry of the transverse torsion springs works as I’ve only seen one lower trailing arm off the car so have not seen both side by side to visualise the securing arrangements for the end of both springs. You are right that there is a lever on each spring about half way along, and these are used to adjust the rear ride height as far as I know; do these need to be released as well?. In addition each side has a webbing strap as a “bottom stop” to prevent the de Dion dropping too much. I guess these may have to be released in a controlled way once the aluminium casings have been removed in order to allow each spring to fully unwind for removal. I was at Wren 2-3 weeks ago and am having some difficulty now visualising just how Barry got the suspension to the state of disassembly I saw. Certainly the half shafts, brakes & hubs have to be removed from each side of the de Dion, either to permit access or to reduce mass. They also took the opportunity to refurbish the lower trailing arms, which as you know are made of 2 pieces of sprung steel riveted together, and which are a hidden rust trap, as well as represerve the other original components and chassis all around (although no welding was needed)
Christian, I’d call Barry at Wren for how he did mine. I’m supposing the tension in the spring is supported by a jack under the trailing arm, the outer aluminium casing is removed (it has the stop lugs in it) then the jack is lowered allowing the torsion bar to unwind safely. BTW one if not both my outer casings broke on removal