Forum Replies Created
-
Hi Christopher,
In 1999 Wessex Workshops fitted a Kenlowe 10/S 2000 Series 10″ suction fan 10-90-12/6A/S to my 2 Litre and its worked well ever since. I have it set to a fairly high temp just below boiling point and unless climbing very steep hills, it generally only comes on if I have been running on the motorway for 30 mins or so and then come to a stop due to a traffic jam. The dilemna then is do I switch off the engine and hope it restarts OK or leave the fan running which I think is likely to gradually drain the battery, as I think that the dynamo struggles to cope with low revs. I do have a good battery however which seems able to make up the shortfall and think can run the fan for 30 mins plus in these conditions. When running up steep hills etc generally at high revs the dynamo seems able to supply sufficient power. When motorway driving I’m definately pleased that I have it ! I will attach some photos for info – due to the current photo size limits (2MB) may have to send in a few posts.
Best Regards,
David H
I would also add to Len’s comments that I think having a good oil filtration system is particularly important. I dont know what the 16/80 has, but I had one fitted to my 2 litre nearly 25 years ago (by Wessex Workshops) and it uses a modern spin on filter. If you use a high detergent oil (as I do) and dont have any system to remove the particulates generated, then you might need to seek further advice.
What is the best oil to use is a famous question on most forums….. I guess the main thing is to ensure it has high levels of ZDDP (>800ppm) which most oils for modern cars dont have as it can affect the catalytic converter. I have used Bicester Classic Oils 20/50 for sometime, but am currently using Millers Classic Sport 20/50 (and as Len mentions there are plenty of others).
I think that the old adage “it doesnt matter what quality oil you use as long as its changed frequently” may have applied 20 years ago, but doesnt now since classic oils hove improved a lot so I think worth using a good quality/known brand.
If you dont know what’s in your vehicle, you could get it tested then just stick with that… I think that Bicester Classic Oils, Millers, Castrol etc all offer this service. You might find the results interesting anyway as it could give an indication as to the health of the engine.
Hi Peter,
Apologies as I’m sure that you are unaware, but we are trying to avoid the use of the forum to sell parts as we describe in the forum rules, which are accessible from the home page.
The main aim is to try to build the forum technical content such that we can try to capture members knowledge, so that it may be of use to others in future years/decades/centuries ! The forum structure has the big advantage that it enables the content to be easily searchable by future generations, which is not so easy with social media.
I would suggest that the two main selling options nowadays are probably through the club classifieds section or it might be possible through the Lagonda Owners Group Facebook page (although am not 100% sure what their rules are on this).
Apologies again as am sure you were unaware and will leave it up until tomorrow incase you need to copy and paste the info elsewhere, but then will need to remove it.
If you want to discuss further, feel free to email me at forum@lagondaclub.com
Best Regards,
David H (Moderator)
Hopefully you’ve found it…. however if not try – British Cars Are Best (1930) (youtube.com) or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBwi82utYsI
If he was a member of the old forum I think that his password etc should still work with this one…. however if not, if you send him a link to this forum, he should be able to register/re register. He does not need to be a member of the club to access and use the forum (but he will need to be registered on the forum).
If he has any problems just ask him to email me at forum@lagondaclub.com
Many thanks for your comments/advice.
It was something of a saga to resolve. I was unable to knock out the pin with a drift so ended up having to drill it out. During this process I realised that the pin was actually threaded so it would have been very unlikely to have come out with a drift…. whether it was fitted like this originally I am unsure, but it looked pretty old. Even with the pin removed I still couldnt remove the spindle with a puller, so eventually had to cut through the bendix shaft and replace it with a spare from the club (part BEN01). With the shaft removed, it still required 4 tonnes of pressure from a hydraulic press to remove the spindle from the old shaft so it would have been very unlikely I would have been able to remove this when in situ in the car. Now the spindle is secured to the new bendix shaft with a roll pin (see photo) so should hopefully be relatively straightforward to remove in future.
It was a shame to have to cut through the old bendix shaft, but other than moving the engine forward, or perhaps tilting it, I can see no other way that I could have removed it. I have heard that with some cars there is sufficient clearance to extract the starter pinion etc without removing anything…. but that definately wasnt the case with mine. Anyway, thought I’d share my recent experience for information.
Just returned from the Le Mans Classic where the 1935 winning M45 BPK 202 is currently on display in the museum along with many other race winning cars…… however now back to needing to remove the starter pinion. Hopefully if you click on the thumbnail you can see the problem I have…. will I need to move the engine forwards, tilt it upwards or any other ideas welcomed ???
I dont normally have a problem injecting Castrol LM type grease through the nipple shown for suspension parts.
When lubricating the chassis, I use Penrite Steering Box Lube which is described as a semi fluid extreme high pressure grease and seems to work quite well. I use this only to inject into the junction boxes on the side of the chassis as described in the extract from the “instruction book” pasted below….. however everywhere else I use a Castrol LM type grease.
From the Lagonda Instruction Book (page 3)
“This lubrication is carried out by means of copper pipes with nipples that conduct solidified oil, which should be of good quality, from the junction box-es on the side of the chassis to the points required, by means of the Tecalemit pressure gun. In dealing with the lubrication of the chassis the word grease gun or grease is used in order to differentiate between oil lubrication, which is used for the engine and gear box and back axle, but has been previously stated, a lubricant of the consistency of gear oil is infinitely preferable to grease, and where the word “grease” appears “solidified oil” is meant.”
Many thanks Hans for posting your manual and making it accessible to all forum members. The more technical information that we are able to capture on the forum, where it should be easily searchable by current and future owners…… the better !
The original post was made in 2009 and I have tried unsuccesfully to contact “Oakley” although I believe that he may still be a member of the club.
Probably best however to assume that it’s unlikely that the manual is still available.
Should anyone be in contact with “Oakley” perhaps they can mention to him the recent posts on the forum…. many thanks.
I suggest that those interested, contact Steve directly outside the forum and that we now finish this thread.
As Richard mentions the facebook Lagonda Owners Group is probably a better place to discuss this subject (ie spares sales).
This forum is really to capture technical and historical knowledge and enable this knowledge to be easily searchable in the future by others with similar problems/questions.
Many thanks.
I assume that these days its mainly a question of cost….. with a 12V battery typically being much cheaper than two 6V batteries.
For info I know that the modern Fiat Punto 12V battery is roughly the same size as a 6V as it’s quite a common conversion to use one in an 1950’s MGA instead of the original two 6V as it still fits in the MGA 6V battery carrier. Whilst in an MGA a 12v single battery does seem to have sufficient capacity to start a B series engine, sometimes two Punto batteries are connected together in parrallel to increase the amp-hour capacity
Interestingly I own a 2 litre which now has a modern 12V 70 Ah battery, but looking back to Arnold Daveys “2 litre In detail” book (page 37) it looks like a 12 volt battery was originally fitted ie”12 volt, negative earth 11 plate tall”.
As am sure you are well aware, the M45 originally had two 6V 90 Ah in series fitted under the rear seat (Arnold Davey’s “4.5 litre In detail” book page 47)…. so not sure why they would move from a single 12V (in the 1920’s) to two 6V (in the 1930’s) but assume/guess either due to increased amp-hour capacity or weight distribution.
I use standard blue antifreeze (Eurocarparts Triple QX but others are also available) in my 2 Litre and have done for many years. I dont really add it for the freezing protection as the car is kept in a warmish garage but for the corrosion inhibition. For the latter, I understand it is important to change it every couple of years.
The more modern pink/red antifreezes I believe can be problematical in older cars and generally arent recommended.
The waterless coolant options typically attract strong opinions on their use…. some like them, some dont.
Nobody really seems to have a poor opinion of blue antifreeze however, so probably the easiest/safest bet.
….. interestingly if you put “composite head gasket” into the search engine it does bring up some more info albeit related to the M45.
For info, if you put “Wessex Head” into the forum search engine it should highlight some posts on the subject… an example below.
I think however that you are the first to ask about the composite head gasket, it would be interesting if someone using one is able to comment ? I can only assume that “no news is good news” !